Rockfax Description
A good route, which is relatively straightforward for the grade - although it is steep, and a little bit of a pump-fest. Start below the lower end of twin diagonal cracks that streak across the cliff and round an arete.
1) 6a, 38m. Make some hard moves to gain the twin cracks, and follow them leftwards. A brief respite halfway leads to more sustained climbing. The crux comes at the end of the twin cracks just before they move up into the slabby groove. Many parties abseil off from here. Alternatively, head up the groove to belay on the top of the large flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E3/E4 overhanging crackline, most parties ab off after the first pitch.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

Neilaw 08/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Dave r
Hidden 29/Sep/16 2nd dog
Eduardo Martinez 20/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/16 2nd rpt
DaveThexton 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Belayed at tat.

with josh, Freja
Hidden 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
robpartridge 13/Aug/16 Lead dog
with Darren McMaster
shed_hed 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Nice climbing on big positive holds with good gear. Felt pretty steady on it, would give it E3 5c. Abbed off at the tat.

shed_hed 13/Aug/16 2nd rpt

To get the gear back after Rob had led it.

millsy 12/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Craig Smith
Hidden 27/Jul/16 Lead
pete johnson 23/Jul/16 Lead rpt
Lenny 08/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Chris (A)
Tom Livingstone 03/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Adam Russell
Hidden 02/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Tom Livingstone 02/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Adam Russell
wi11 15/Jun/16 2nd rpt

Much easier than on Saturday

with Angus
anguskille 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
wi11 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S
eel ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/May/16 Lead O/S
Dave Warburton 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Full sun. Hot.

andyinglis 22/May/16 Lead O/S

Nae bad. Hairy up top!

Alasdair Fulton 22/May/16 AltLd β

After a short sleep, a long drive and not many trad routes under the belt this year I wasn't sure I'd do this, but it was fine and great fun. Andy pissed it like it was E2.

Mike_Hayes 21/May/16 Lead O/S

Probs E3 especially with a kneebar :)

with John Nightingale
Tom Livingstone 08/May/16 Lead rpt
with Jack Lawledge
pete johnson 01/May/16 Lead
with Steve Findlay
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
saintlade ??/2016 -

A few sneaky rests to be found, pretty steady.

Ramon Marin 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with dave pickford
Tom Livingstone 10/Aug/15 2nd rpt
Hannes B 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

p1 to the LO

with Neil C, Aidan
Stoney Boy 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Nick Conway
Nickc ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Jen Crook 12/May/15 Lead dnf
with Richard Cussen
MichaelGallimore 19/Apr/15 2nd β
with Andy Cmc
Hidden ??/2015 Lead
Matt Cooke 11/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Taylor
Ed morris 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Steve
dan gibson 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with Tom Livingstone
Tom Livingstone 21/Jul/14 Lead O/S
will9911 16/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
Hidden 06/Jun/14 2nd rpt
tim newton 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Hard E3 5c? Nice route though.

Jim Tan ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
NDD 25/May/14 2nd
with james
James Oswald 24/May/14 Lead O/S

Probably just hard e3 given that there's a rest a few moves before the crux. It was worth downclimbing before the first hard move after placing gear. There's a cool near hands off bridging rest after the first crux and there's good gear placed off the good undercuts before the final hard move. Totally brilliant route.

with Nick Duboust
Jake Young 18/May/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
Hidden ?/May/14 -
Hidden 24/Apr/14 Lead
samwillo 17/Apr/14 AltLd
Jay.Carr 17/Apr/14 2nd
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2014 -
with Jim Moran
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Andy Peak 1 06/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead β
Ramon Marin 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Amazing line, nice warm up for the day. Soft E3, bomber gear

with ciaran tracey
The old James turnbull 24/Jul/13 2nd
with will sim
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S
tebs 29/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Fantastic - the crux was probably lower down but that final move round the arete felt right on the limit! Fairly pumped just on second.

with Adam
PaulTanton 29/Jun/13 2nd rpt

I led this some years ago.

with Stuart Lancaster
Ewan Russell 24/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Halla
JBO 07/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 29/May/13 Lead O/S

No way E4

with Calum Musket
Hidden 28/May/13 AltLd dog
Duncan Campbell 26/May/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant pumpy crack climbing.

with Fingers
ksjs 19/May/13 Lead rpt

On doing this again I just can't see it as E4, it isn't, you're on jugs virtually every move, there's gear everywhere. Also, is there a 6a move on it, is it not just 6a as there's lots of 5c? Regardless, it is superb, I wish there was more trad in this vein...

with Rich
Dangerous Dave 19/May/13 Lead O/S
Russell Birkett 19/May/13 Lead β

Dave led first

Hidden 05/May/13 Lead O/S
mark20 05/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead O/S
ejected ??/2013 -
Luke Brooks ??/2013 -
Hidden 27/Oct/12 2nd
Ed Babs 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Very good but nowhere near E4 or 6a

Hidden 02/Sep/12 2nd β
Sardien 28/Aug/12 2nd β

So happy with this!

with Andy Scott
Rachel S 14/Aug/12 AltLd

Dogged seconding the 6a crux pitch, led P2 4c.

with Nik
Nik Jennings 14/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Rachel
datoon 14/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with K
khawk 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with DT
Rob Pitt 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Lee Roberts
Howard Lawledge 07/Jul/12 Lead
mikeshewring 06/Jun/12 Lead β

On andy's gear.

Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead RP
gforce 14/May/12 Lead
with Adrian
AC1 14/May/12 2nd
with gforce
Owain Llewelyn 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Dan
dan ely 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with owian
Dave Foster 01/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Great route. Pumpy by the end though. Solid lead by Si as ever, with a spicey run out/sprint at the finish. Didn't find a 6a move, plenty of 5c and general burl.

with Si 2
Hidden 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 02/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Oct/11 Lead O/S
KittySupreme ?/Oct/11 2nd dog
alaan 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Will
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead dog
Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead
thomasadixon 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mike
Hidden 09/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S

E3, did in a single pitch.

with Frank Ramsey
Owain Llewelyn 18/Jun/11 Lead
with Neil
C coldwell-storry 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S

piss, E3 in the Lakes.

with Iron Mike, rob lay
Rob1988 11/Jun/11 Lead β

did on cals gear instead of seconding it. Sharpe!

with Cal
Glyn 11/May/11 Lead O/S

Pumpy but steady. Few loose holds and some are very sharp.

with Luke
Adam Lincoln 01/May/11 Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
Hidden ?/May/11 -
david morse 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Had some beta about pulling into the groove, couldnt manage this so continued leftwards up the rib and crack. Mega pumped, should have done a warm up

stevebarratt 19/Apr/11 Lead

On daves gear. Then again on tr to clean it.

Hidden ?/Apr/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
centurion05 ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Almost blew it after messing around selecting wrong cam sizes, too much sport climbing on the ormes away from the trad. Pulled into top groove as pumped as you can get without falling off.

zero six ?/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 14/Aug/10 2nd dog
Hidden 08/Aug/10 2nd
centurion05 08/Aug/10 Lead
with patch
soph ?/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/10 2nd β
Toby Dunn 20/Jun/10 2nd
with Joe Bawden
3 Names 30/May/10 Lead O/S
givemetea 30/May/10 2nd O/S
with Vince
JM 01/May/10 Lead O/S
with Steve Sylvester
Hidden ?/May/10 Lead O/S
phil64 ?/May/10 Lead
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 09/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Steep, awkward holds. wicked moves, pumpy if you miss the undercut at the top.

with Mikey G
Rich Kirby 17/Oct/09 2nd rpt
with Kev
Hidden 12/Jul/09 2nd dog
Ed Booth 02/May/09 Lead O/S

Nick Bullock seconded to remove Dave Rudkins gear on Black Leg. Quite goey.

with Fennerz
Hidden 17/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 17/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with michael porter
harvie 16/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 31/Jan/09 Lead O/S
feilx 02/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Phil Davis
Hidden 21/Jul/08 AltLd RP
mux 20/Jul/08 Lead
with Rob
mr mills ?/May/08 Lead O/S

short and sweet !

with ioan d
ksjs 22/Apr/08 Lead O/S

how good is this! pumpy, sustained, great gear with a tricky move to negotiate the corner at the end of the traverse. brilliant climbing. hard E3, soft E4

with sarah
tigertiger ??/2008 -
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/07 2nd β
ellis ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Tom Bridgeland
IOAN D 12/May/07 Lead O/S
with Alun
Hidden 10/May/07 Lead O/S
JulesV ??/2007 2nd O/S
with toby dunn
a_radiohead_fan ?/Oct/06 Lead O/S
shoulders 03/Aug/06 Lead O/S
Brown 04/Sep/05 Lead dog
with Henry
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 02/May/05 2nd rpt

P*ss wet through.

with Nic Sellers
PaulTanton 11/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden ??/2004 -
Hidden ??/2004 Lead dog
Jah ?/Nov/02 Lead
Hidden ??/2001 Lead dog
sadams 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 05/Aug/99 Lead dog
with Hugh
Hidden ?/Jul/99 Lead O/S
GeoffG 05/Jun/99 Lead
with greg cottrell
Steve Crowe 01/Aug/98 2nd O/S
with KM
Hidden 06/Jul/98 Lead O/S
buzby78 20/Sep/97 -
with Parnaby
Roget 29/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden ??/1995 Lead O/S
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??/1995 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 06/Jul/94 2nd
with Robert Durran
jfletcher 20/Oct/90 Lead O/S

LUMC meet

Billg 29/Apr/90 2nd
with Jon Barton
mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1990 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1989 2nd
with Andy Jones
Paul Clarke ??/1989 AltLd
with Hannes Mayer
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
with Stephen Yates
Hidden ??/1986 Lead O/S
Robmwatt ??/1986 -
andy gittins ??/1985 -
keefe 22/Apr/84 -
Mike Owen 17/Apr/83 Lead O/S
with Andy Pollitt
Hidden 16/Apr/82 AltLd
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead O/S
with Neil Molnar
Hidden 24/May/81 Lead
duncan ?/Oct/80 Lead O/S
Steve Lewis 04/Nov/76 Lead O/S
with sharpie
8 users have this on their wishlist
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 34
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 45
Votes cast 36
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set