Rockfax Description
A direct line with intricate climbing that leads to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with plenty of fiddly gear and helpful hidden holds. High in the grade. Start at the base of the alcove between Dream.. and Wen.
1) 5a, 25m. From the alcove, climb onto the blunt-topped pinnacle. Continue above to beneath the corner. Traverse left round the arete. Move up and continue on good holds to a belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb the thin crack behind the belay for 10m. A tricky sequence rightwards leads to Dream... and an ancient peg. Continue upwards, first left and then back right to a small roof. Pullover this at its widest point. A wide crack leads to a small stance.
3) 5a, 18m. Step right and climb the vague crack that fizzles out beneath the final wall. Plug in an extra runner and continue to the top on huge holds; jug pulling in the sky! © Rockfax

Ticklists: Gogarth Extreme Gems.

JendeHoxar 27/Aug/17 2nd
with Flavio
Flavio 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Richard Kendrick 29/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Kelly, Luke
LDudill 29/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Started from ledges. Rich 5b pitch. Me Top pitch. 5b pitch felt pretty easy at e2, relatively sustained but lots of posative holds and never hard.

with Rich , Kelly campbell
islandlynx 05/Apr/17 AltLd
with Horton
Horton 05/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

P3 - short pitch with fun/exposed move

with Shane
beagly77 ??/2017 -
Rhys Macallister 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with suzana
Hidden 22/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
kyaizawa 17/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Started from the ledge, lead p3 which felt more 5a than 4b!!

PaulTanton 17/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Ki
Hidden 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
frejashannon 19/Jul/16 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/16 -
Adam24B 25/May/16 Lead O/S

Lovely first pitch, slightly scary second pitch and loose but fun final pitch, a bit of everything made for a great end the day after doing the quartz icicle.

with Max
JendeHoxar 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Mike Hewitt 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S

I took the final pitch (5a) which felt much easier.

Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden 11/Jul/15 2nd O/S
davebrox 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Vanders
Martin Haworth 18/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Bennykr 19/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

A better climb then quartz icicle IMO.

with Bubbles
PaulTanton 04/May/13 2nd O/S

Nice route, 2 stars, but it was a cold windy day

with Stuart Lancaster
Hidden 04/May/13 AltLd O/S
Rachel S 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Abbed in to start of 2nd pitch. Nik led, 5b, then I led to top pitch, 4b.

with Nik
Nik Jennings 10/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch.

with Rachel
Rory Shaw 19/Jun/12 -
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
zukator 14/Jun/11 2nd
with Sarah, Owain
Owain Llewelyn 14/Jun/11 Lead
with Dad and sarah
CharlieMack 18/May/11 Lead O/S
with David
Hidden 03/May/11 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

got horribly dehydrated waiting on the ledge but good climbing anyhow. was really not in the mood to finish up that horrendously loose chimney but still - classic gogarth experience. Great lead from Remus even though slighlty off route. felt hard for E2

Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
tuftynick ??/2011 -
Toby Dunn ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
Steve Long ??/2010 -
khawk 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with DT
datoon 30/May/09 AltLd O/S
with K
jeffb 28/Aug/08 Lead O/S

From the Wen ledge to the Wen niche only. We were a bit off route....

with stemill
stemill 28/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Meant to be doing dream. Abbed past the belay, Jeff says "It'll be reet, we'll just trot up this bit here and get back on route". It was, but only just!!

with Jeff
Al Evans ??/2008 -
mux ??/2007 -
NeilGriffiths 05/Nov/06 -

Returning from elbows

with Dave Garry
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
cem 26/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??/2005 -
Hidden 25/Jul/03 AltLd
nickdonohue ?/Jul/02 Lead

single pitch from the Wen ledges

with Joe Brown
tompercy ?/Apr/02 AltLd
with Freya
Hidden ?/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Ched 19/Jun/00 Lead O/S
with Geraint Evans
ArnaudG ??/2000 2nd
with Jon
tuftynick ??/2000 Lead
pete johnson 19/Jun/99 Lead
with Dave Wills
Hidden ??/1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Dec/97 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/97 Lead O/S
michael burrows 21/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with john roberts
frost ?/Jul/96 AltLd
with S Raw
pete johnson 05/May/96 Lead
with Lun
Rich Kirby 09/May/95 Lead O/S
with Derek Miller
Campbell42 18/Sep/94 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
D Tempest 16/Jul/94 AltLd

The main pitch

with Rick
Andy Say 26/Jun/94 Lead
pete johnson 05/May/94 AltLd O/S
with Andy Robinson, Bob Allen
AlanLittle ?/May/93 2nd
with John Whitham
Hidden 01/Apr/93 AltLd
crossleysm ??/1993 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 01/Jun/92 AltLd

Split main pitch with belay on DoWH - running out of small gear. Omitted P1.

with Pete Hemmings
WB ??/1992 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 27/Aug/91 Lead
with Andy W
Hidden 14/Jul/91 Lead
Hidden 19/May/90 AltLd
Dave Musgrove 10/Apr/90 Lead O/S
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10/Apr/90 AltLd
with Dad
Hidden 02/Jul/88 AltLd
Neil McA 14/Aug/86 Lead O/S
with Burt Levy
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1984 Lead
with Brendan Mcghee
daviesxxx ??/1980 AltLd
Steve Lewis 15/Oct/77 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
Paul Clarke ??/1976 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 18
High 5c
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Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
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