UKC

Rockfax Description
A direct line with intricate climbing leading to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with lots of fiddly gear and helpful hidden holds. Start at the base of the alcove.
1) 5a, 25m. From the alcove, climb onto the blunt-topped pinnacle. Continue above until beneath the corner. Traverse left round the arete, move up and continue on good holds to a belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb a thin crack behind the belay for 10m. A tricky sequence right leads to Dream... and an old peg. Continue upwards, first left, and then back right, to a small roof. Pull over this at its widest point. A wide crack leads to a small stance.
3) 4b, 18m. Step right and climb the vague crack that fizzles out beneath the final wall. Plug in an extra runner and continue to the top on huge holds; jug pulling in the sky! © Rockfax

Ticklists

Gogarth Extreme Gems , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Booth 18 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Beware loose blocks on the top pitch right above the belay!
βeta?
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βeta: Beware loose blocks on the top pitch right above the belay!
Guy Harris 10 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing
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βeta: Lovely climbing

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 25
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 22
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mousetrap

Grade: E2 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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