Rockfax Description
A direct line with intricate climbing that leads to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with plenty of fiddly gear and helpful hidden holds. High in the grade. Start at the base of the alcove between Dream.. and Wen.
1) 5a, 25m. From the alcove, climb onto the blunt-topped pinnacle. Continue above to beneath the corner. Traverse left round the arete. Move up and continue on good holds to a belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb the thin crack behind the belay for 10m. A tricky sequence rightwards leads to Dream... and an ancient peg. Continue upwards, first left and then back right to a small roof. Pullover this at its widest point. A wide crack leads to a small stance.
3) 5a, 18m. Step right and climb the vague crack that fizzles out beneath the final wall. Plug in an extra runner and continue to the top on huge holds; jug pulling in the sky! © Rockfax

Ticklists

Gogarth Extreme Gems, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
LucaC 13 Sep AltLd O/S
geoff b 8 Sep AltLd O/S Took a hanging stance above the sea & climbed an atmospheric steep but juggy P1 to the ledge. P2 had enough gear & was quite intricate, slabby, climbing. P3 steep & juggy.
with The Forrest
Took a hanging stance above the sea & climbed an atmospheric steep but juggy P1 to the ledge. P2 had enough gear & was quite intricate, slabby, climbing. P3 steep & juggy.
with The Forrest
Hidden 7 Sep AltLd O/S
jamieevans 5 Aug AltLd
Owen W-G 5 Aug AltLd O/S High tide so skipped P1. Led main pitch which didn’t feel at all high in grade for E2, no hard moves but I had to quest for decent gear a bit.
High tide so skipped P1. Led main pitch which didn’t feel at all high in grade for E2, no hard moves but I had to quest for decent gear a bit.
Hidden 23 Jul 2nd
williap 7 Jul AltLd O/S From high tide ledge. Liam led a wondering pitch 1 with minimal gear. I finished off the route by heading left from the belay then up a very large flake...unsure what line that is tho!
with LBrown
From high tide ledge. Liam led a wondering pitch 1 with minimal gear. I finished off the route by heading left from the belay then up a very large flake...unsure what line that is tho!
with LBrown
Hidden 3 Jul Lead
Tom Seccombe 6 Jun AltLd O/S
with Ian Grebowski, BenRyle
with Ian Grebowski, BenRyle
BenRyle 6 Jun AltLd O/S
with Ian Grobowski, Tom Seccombe
with Ian Grobowski, Tom Seccombe
RM199 26 May Lead O/S Lead crux pitch. Intricate route finding but all there!
Lead crux pitch. Intricate route finding but all there!
lanky 20 May AltLd From the ledges as the tide was up. Led p2
with Rich
From the ledges as the tide was up. Led p2
with Rich
M_Robinson 12 May Lead O/S
with Helen Moore
with Helen Moore
Derek Furze 23 Apr AltLd Good lead from Chris on the main pitch. Good climbing with some delicate and fairly bold moves.
with Chris Gooder
Good lead from Chris on the main pitch. Good climbing with some delicate and fairly bold moves.
with Chris Gooder
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 18 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Dave Almond 18 Jul, 2018 Lead From the ledges as tide up. Lovely balancy climbing
with Philip Ingle
From the ledges as tide up. Lovely balancy climbing
with Philip Ingle
Dexter JW 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Jack jk
with Jack jk
Jack jk 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2. Loose in the latter half of P1 and most of P2. No hard climbing but spaced gear on the first pitch- steady head from Dexter.
Lead P2. Loose in the latter half of P1 and most of P2. No hard climbing but spaced gear on the first pitch- steady head from Dexter.
JendeHoxar 27 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Jumar Jenny
with Jumar Jenny
Richard Kendrick 29 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Kelly, Luke
with Kelly, Luke
Hidden 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
islandlynx 5 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Horton
with Horton
Horton 5 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S P3 - short pitch with fun/exposed move
P3 - short pitch with fun/exposed move
beagly77 ??, 2017 -
Hidden 22 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
kyaizawa 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Started from the ledge, lead p3 which felt more 5a than 4b!!
Started from the ledge, lead p3 which felt more 5a than 4b!!
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
frejashannon 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 19 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Jun, 2016 -
Adam24B 25 May, 2016 Lead O/S Lovely first pitch, slightly scary second pitch and loose but fun final pitch, a bit of everything made for a great end the day after doing the quartz icicle.
with Max
Lovely first pitch, slightly scary second pitch and loose but fun final pitch, a bit of everything made for a great end the day after doing the quartz icicle.
with Max
JendeHoxar 17 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mike Hewitt 17 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S I took the final pitch (5a) which felt much easier.
I took the final pitch (5a) which felt much easier.
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
davebrox 22 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Vanders
with Vanders
Martin Haworth 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Seymore Butt ??, 2014 2nd
with Derek Hargreaves
with Derek Hargreaves
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Bennykr 19 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S A better climb then quartz icicle IMO.
with Bubbles
A better climb then quartz icicle IMO.
with Bubbles
Hidden 4 May, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
Rachel S 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Abbed in to start of 2nd pitch. Nik led, 5b, then I led to top pitch, 4b.
Abbed in to start of 2nd pitch. Nik led, 5b, then I led to top pitch, 4b.
Nik Jennings 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch.
Led 2nd pitch.
Rory Shaw 19 Jun, 2012 -
Hidden 15 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
zukator 14 Jun, 2011 2nd
with Sarah, Owain
with Sarah, Owain
Owain Llewelyn 14 Jun, 2011 Lead
with Dad and sarah
with Dad and sarah
CharlieMack 18 May, 2011 Lead O/S
with David
with David
Hidden 3 May, 2011 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S got horribly dehydrated waiting on the ledge but good climbing anyhow. was really not in the mood to finish up that horrendously loose chimney but still - classic gogarth experience. Great lead from Remus even though slighlty off route. felt hard for E2
with remus
got horribly dehydrated waiting on the ledge but good climbing anyhow. was really not in the mood to finish up that horrendously loose chimney but still - classic gogarth experience. Great lead from Remus even though slighlty off route. felt hard for E2
with remus
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
PAJames ??, 2011 -
tuftynick ??, 2011 -
Toby Dunn ??, 2011 -
Hidden 25 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
Steve Long ??, 2010 -
khawk 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with datoon
with datoon
datoon 30 May, 2009 AltLd O/S
with K
with K
jeffb 28 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S From the Wen ledge to the Wen niche only. We were a bit off route....
with stemill
From the Wen ledge to the Wen niche only. We were a bit off route....
with stemill
stemill 28 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S Meant to be doing dream. Abbed past the belay, Jeff says "It'll be reet, we'll just trot up this bit here and get back on route". It was, but only just!!
with jeffb
Meant to be doing dream. Abbed past the belay, Jeff says "It'll be reet, we'll just trot up this bit here and get back on route". It was, but only just!!
with jeffb
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
mux ??, 2007 -
NeilGriffiths 5 Nov, 2006 - Returning from elbows
with Dave Garry
Returning from elbows
with Dave Garry
Will1 ?Jul, 2006 -
with Mike
with Mike
Boy ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
cem 26 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S Led main pitch
with GrahamD
Led main pitch
with GrahamD
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 -
a_radiohead_fan ??, 2005 -
Hidden 25 Jul, 2003 AltLd
nickdonohue ?Jul, 2002 Lead single pitch from the Wen ledges
with Joe Brown
single pitch from the Wen ledges
with Joe Brown
tompercy ?Apr, 2002 AltLd
with Freya
with Freya
Hidden ?Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Ched 19 Jun, 2000 Lead O/S
with Geraint Evans
with Geraint Evans
ArnaudG ??, 2000 2nd
with Jon
with Jon
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
pete johnson 19 Jun, 1999 Lead
with Dave Wills
with Dave Wills
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Dec, 1997 2nd
Hidden 25 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
michael burrows 21 Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
with john roberts
with john roberts
frost ?Jul, 1996 AltLd
with S Raw
with S Raw
pete johnson 5 May, 1996 Lead
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden 9 May, 1995 Lead O/S
Campbell42 18 Sep, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
with Chris Wilson
D Tempest 16 Jul, 1994 AltLd The main pitch
with Rick
The main pitch
with Rick
Andy Say 26 Jun, 1994 Lead
pete johnson 5 May, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Andy Robinson, Bob Allen
with Andy Robinson, Bob Allen
AlanLittle ?May, 1993 2nd
with John Whitham
with John Whitham
Hidden 1 Apr, 1993 AltLd
crossleysm ??, 1993 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 1 Jun, 1992 AltLd Split main pitch with belay on DoWH - running out of small gear. Omitted P1.
with Pete Hemmings
Split main pitch with belay on DoWH - running out of small gear. Omitted P1.
with Pete Hemmings
WB ??, 1992 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 27 Aug, 1991 Lead
with Andy W
with Andy W
steveb2006 14 Jul, 1991 Lead Tide in so cant do 1st pitch (done before)
with Simon Mee
Tide in so cant do 1st pitch (done before)
with Simon Mee
steveb2006 19 May, 1990 AltLd A good direct line up Wen slab. Led middle (5b) pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
A good direct line up Wen slab. Led middle (5b) pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
Dave Musgrove 10 Apr, 1990 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 10 Apr, 1990 AltLd
Hidden 2 Jul, 1988 AltLd
Neil McA 14 Aug, 1986 Lead O/S
with Burt Levy
with Burt Levy
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1984 Lead
with Brendan Mcghee
with Brendan Mcghee
daviesxxx ??, 1980 AltLd
Steve Lewis 15 Oct, 1977 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Steve Clegg 19 Apr, 1976 -
with Pete W
with Pete W
Hidden ??, 1976 AltLd
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 19
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set