UKC

40m, 2 pitches. This is not describing Original Route as in Highland Outcrops North (which is the incorrect line)

It describes the original route of the First Ascentionists which takes a line much closer to the right arete.

Photos online show the 1970 FA's climbed direct up the south side of the east arete, including the 5m ledge and the higher belay ledge on the arete:

http://www.mindenpictures.com/search/preview/cliff-phillips-climbing-north-gaulton-castle-orkney-scotland/0_90023485.html

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fS9tlVyPvKM/TjBHcHwwsiI/AAAAAAAABAI/9QcGCEJYz_4/s1600/Gaulton2.jpg

P. Minks, C. Phillips Apr/1970.

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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Sandgeo)

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