Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.
A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.
Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.
Dates: 31 March to 15 September
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:
- Unrestricted (year round access)
- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August
- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September
Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.
Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions.
Unrestricted
Restricted 31 March - 14 August
Restricted 31 March - 15 September
These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
rustaldo | 12 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: From my experience of guidebook interpretation and route finding in this area - the book describes some routes in the back of the zawn (The Bow, The Stone Gollum etc) and a handful of routes at the seaward end of the zawn above wave washed ledges (Crossbill, The Orangutangus etc) .. For Black Pearl and Dawn's.. you need to traverse approx halfway into the zawn, just before a large slabby section beneath an overhang, at the top-right (looking in) end of the slab you will find the "pancake flake" which is large-wheel sized and not Yosemite pancake sized (!).. belay here, Black Pearl is directly above. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: From my experience of guidebook interpretation and route finding in this area - the book describes some routes in the back of the zawn (The Bow, The Stone Gollum etc) and a handful of routes at the seaward end of the zawn above wave washed ledges (Crossbill, The Orangutangus etc) .. For Black Pearl and Dawn's.. you need to traverse approx halfway into the zawn, just before a large slabby section beneath an overhang, at the top-right (looking in) end of the slab you will find the "pancake flake" which is large-wheel sized and not Yosemite pancake sized (!).. belay here, Black Pearl is directly above. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Lundy)