200m, 6 pitches.
Rarely formed pillar of ice that can be climbed as a finishing variant to Tøftfossen. Climb the first two/ three pitches of Toftfossen and trend diagonally rightwards (often thin) from the main pillars towards the headwall.
(P1/2) The first two pitches go as for Tøftfossen.
(P3) The third pitch follows the snow ramp up and right away from Tøftfossen. This is ok, but protection is scarce. Stay low as the snow cover is thin on bare rock. Belay at the exposed ice.
(P4) 20 m, The fourth continues ice to the base of the Diplomisen pillar. The ice was absolutely crap here.
(P5) 30 m Short diagonal trending start into a groove directly below the M6 escape route. Climb the Diplomisen pillar which is vertical for 15-18 m (WI5). Belay on the ice at the top of the pillar.
(P6) 40 m, Mount the snow ramp and trend diagonally right to a break in the cornice (if there). No protection. A spiky rock on top of the mountain serves as a perfect belay spot.
Descent as per Tøftfossen.
(P1/2) The first two pitches go as for Tøftfossen.
(P3) The third pitch follows the snow ramp up and right away from Tøftfossen. This is ok, but protection is scarce. Stay low as the snow cover is thin on bare rock. Belay at the exposed ice.
(P4) 20 m, The fourth continues ice to the base of the Diplomisen pillar. The ice was absolutely crap here.
(P5) 30 m Short diagonal trending start into a groove directly below the M6 escape route. Climb the Diplomisen pillar which is vertical for 15-18 m (WI5). Belay on the ice at the top of the pillar.
(P6) 40 m, Mount the snow ramp and trend diagonally right to a break in the cornice (if there). No protection. A spiky rock on top of the mountain serves as a perfect belay spot.
Descent as per Tøftfossen.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
5 users have logged this
1 users have this on their wishlistPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Snøgøtuisen 3
Grade: WI-5 ***
(Snøgøtuisene)