Rockfax Description
A route with interesting climbing on excellent rock throughout. The crux is a test of nerve up a superb technical groove. Some large cams will be found useful on the crack pitches.
1) N6. Climb a vague rib, (it becomes more prominent higher up), on flakes and cracks to a good ledge.
2) N6. Climb the rib on its left side, up broken cracks, to a ledge.
3) N5. Trend leftwards up a grassy crack and mantel the overhanging grass to a large grassy ledge. Continue left and climb the chimney to another ledge. Belay under the right-facing undercut corner.
4) N6+. Classic climbing. Undercut out right strenuously to where the corner turns and continue to a small ledge. Layback the next section to belay below a small roof.
5) N7+. The pitch - BOLD. Pull through the roof on the left to gain the continuation corner. Pass a small ledge on the left (belay?) until the crack thins at a small roof. Boldly up the shallow groove (microwires) to a belay on a small grassy ramp.
6) N6. Undercut the left-facing crack to tricky moves to gain a large block. Climb behind this and belay on top
7) N6+. Layback the flake to its top and swing left onto the wall. Bold moves gain a ledge and easier ground. Follow a left-facing crack to a huge square ledge and a mega boulder.
8) N5. From the top of the boulder (amazing views), step onto the wall and climb easily to a grass terrace. Scramble off leftwards up grass and rock to the summit. © Rockfax
FA. Rob Lamey, Mike Rolf 28.7.2016 28/Jul/2016.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Psk94 | 24 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Very runout at the N7+ crux! Nice to have big cams as well for the rest of the climb! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very runout at the N7+ crux! Nice to have big cams as well for the rest of the climb! |
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Grade: n7+ ***
(Rorvika)