Rockfax Description
A trip into the central part of the wall utilising the start of Borr I Bekkmørtna and rejoining it for its last few pitches. Independent start pitches weren't possible due to wet rock. A double set of medium cams will be found very useful.
1) to 4) Climb the first four pitches of Borr I Bekkmørtna.
5) N5. Traverse the break rightwards and down-climb to a large sloping ledge and a belay below an open groove. This stance could probably be reached from directly below.
6) N7-. Climb the groove with hard moves passing a small roof. Head up the wall before trending right past a slabby groove and into the next right-facing corner. Climb the corner awkwardly to belay at a poor stance in a small groove on the left.
7) N6. Climb a series of flakes eventually trending rightwards to a large ledge below a groove
8) N6+. A great pitch. Climb the initial groove to an immaculate square-cut corner. Head up this to a small stance on the right.
9) N7. Climb up and through the roof to access the perfect hand-crack splitting the smooth face high on the wall with incredible exposure. At the top of the crack, traverse the break leftwards to belay in a niche.
10) N6. Climb the overhanging corner to ledges and continue to a big ledge below a roof. Traverse left to join the top of Borr I Bekkmørtna or force new ground above over mossy rock. © Rockfax

FA. Rob Lamey, Mike Rolf 4.8.2016 04/Aug/2016.

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