Rockfax Description
A challenging route tackling the central section of Djupfjord Wall in six contrasting pitches. The desperate seam on pitch 6 is the crux of the route but, can be avoided by an easier exit up the groove to the right, reducing the overall grade to N8-. Along with Genus Locy on Vågakallen, this is currently one of Lofoten's hardest trad routes. The crux pitch was felt to be significantly harder than Minnisrisset by the first ascensionists.
Start around 150m up the gully at the base of the unmistakable water-worn chimney which bisects the centre of the wall.
1) N5+, 50m. Climb the chimney until you reach a grassy ledge. Belay on wires and a large cam in a corner on the left.
2) N6+, 25m. Move up into the corner above the belay and traverse left under a big roof. Layback around into another hanging corner and belay at its top on a large flake, at the base of a beautiful leftward-slanting ramp.
3) N7+, 30m. Climb the awesome ramp using the thin layback seam (micro-wires and TC3's essential to protect the start). Where the ramp finishes, a perfect wire slot protects a wild move up to gain a small ledge. Belay on wires and cams.
4) N8-, 40m. Make hard but well-protected moves to leave the ledge, then follow the superb crack system that leads straight up. Belay in a niche where the angle eases.
5) N7, 50m. Follow the basalt dyke up and left out of the niche to make hard moves left to gain a small corner and another crack system. Follow this to the point where the headwall above steepens. Arrange gear here and make a precarious traverse right to gain an excellent belay on a sloping ledge below the stunning thin seam in the headwall.
6) N9-, 55m. Arrange a side-runner in the crack on the right to protect the start, then move left into the beautiful thin, shallow seam that leads up the final wall. Very sustained and complex climbing with only just adequate protection from micro-wires and micro TC3s leads to an eventual easing of angle after 30m. Follow the summit slabs easily to a perfect final belay ledge at the top of the wall. An easier alternative (N6-) takes the groove and crack system above the belay and leads to the top making the whole route N8- and therefore a more amenable proposition. © Rockfax

FA. David Pickford, Malin Holmberg 07.2011. Climbed on-sight, ground up, alternate leads, using the alternative easier finish due to a rainstorm. The crux pitch 6 was led by Holmberg, headpoint style, after top roping several days later. The route awaits 15/Jul/2011.

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