Rockfax Description
A superb route taking a powerful line up the right-hand side of the wall. A large cam or two is useful on pitch 2. About 30m right of the deep chimney of Lady of the Lake is another, steep chimney rising from a raised grassy ledge. Just to the right of this is a system of shallow corners and cracks. Start here.
1) N7, 60m. Climbing the crack system all the way to arrive on a huge terrace with a mature birch wood. Belay here.
2) N7, 45m. Walk about 20m left across the terrace to a stance below a very large flake system. Climb up to the huge flake then layback around it (big cam useful) following it back right to where it forms a slot-chimney. Climb up to a small hanging corner which is followed to a fine stance on a large flake.
3) N7-, 25m. Move right around the arete to gain the superb finger-crack on the wall to the right. Follow this to a good ledge.
4) N7-, 25m. Move left into a leftward-leaning groove and follow this via some harder moves to an easier corner, which leads to a ledge and belay.
5) N6, 40m. Move left from the end of the ledge and climb fine cracks up the slab to a point where an easy traverse left leads to a belay in a deep niche.
6) N5+, 40m. Follow the deep crack system to the top. © Rockfax
FA. David Pickford, Malin Holmberg 07.2011 15/Jul/2011.
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Grade: n7 ***
(Stortind)