Rockfax Description
A superb hard route taking the crack system that splits the lowest part of Djupfjord Wall. Start about 50m above the fjord by a small tree below the thin crack that bisects the wall. The crack forks left after 20m - an old aid bolt is visible here on the right.
1) N8+, 45m. Climb the thin crack to a rest on a jug where it blanks out into a seam leading up left. Arrange good gear (small wires) and make some very hard and extending moves to gain the horizontal crack leading left. Traverse along this to a rest below a wider crack. This is followed to an excellent belay ledge.
2) N7-, 40m. Walk 3m left along the ledge to a thin, rightward-slanting corner. Climb this awkwardly to a good ledge after 10m. Traverse left to the thin crack leading up through a bulging slab. Follow this (tricky at first) to eventually gain easier slabs and a large finishing ledge. © Rockfax
FA. David Pickford, Malin Holmberg 7.2011. Pitch 1 was led free placing all gear on lead by Pickford after some cleaning, pitch 2 was led by Holmberg. 15/Jul/2011.
There is no feedback for this climb.
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Grade: n8+ ***
(Gandalf)