Rockfax Description
The corner system on the right-hand side the face. The first ascent took 16 hours car to car and was mostly free. Pitches 3 and 7 are not likely to be free because of challenging and slimy rock. Pitch 4 offers superb chimney climbing.
1) N6, 50m. Climb up the groove to a ledge on your left. Continue up the layback corner and when you reach a sloping rail, make an easy traverse right to a good stance.
2) N7, 50m. Make a move right and climb up the short off-width and past a small roof. Continue up and belay on top of the sketchy chockstone tower.
3) N7-/A1, 25m. Climb past the wet section into the wide crack until you can traverse left and into a left-facing corner. Belay at the top of the corner.
4) N7+/A0, 35m. Chimney up the wide fin and make a hanging belay. This should go free at N8.
5) N7, 40m. Continue up the fin and past some cracks, pull through a short boulder section and belay in the corner.
6) N6+, 30m. Jam up wet cracks and belay on a small stance.
7) N6-/A1, 40m. Aid up the diagonal crack (slimy), then follow cracks and do a mantel to a good belay.
8) N6-, 50m. Trend leftwards on ledges and climb down a flake until you can reach the right-facing corner. Continue straight up to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Carl Granlund, Lars Martin Solberg 05.07.2014 05/Jul/2014.

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