3 pitches. The obvious chimney line just left of Hourglass Gully. Start at the bottom left of Hourglass gully. Traverse left along a ledge to the foot of the the chimney which is climbed in three pitches. The first is straightforward, while the second contains an awkward but small chockstone. The crux is the last pitch a huge chockstone on the left wall and then take the mixed ground above. A squeeze route behind may be an alternative in lean conditions for the anorexic.

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Great routes in the Coe

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
Hidden 10 Jan, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 15 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
team fat belly 15 Feb, 2015 - Climbed in two pitches. One long pitch up the gully and over an initial chockstone leaving a shorter second pitch round the second chockstone and up through the squeeze. The ice is in good condition at the moment and the protection normally emerges with a bit of digging. The squeeze chimney goes but not how you might expect at first.
with Max
Climbed in two pitches. One long pitch up the gully and over an initial chockstone leaving a shorter second pitch round the second chockstone and up through the squeeze. The ice is in good condition at the moment and the protection normally emerges with a bit of digging. The squeeze chimney goes but not how you might expect at first.
with Max
Hidden 12 Jan, 2014 AltLd
010paw 12 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S A very good climb. Steady for the grade but nothing too difficult in todays condition, it was in good nic. Certainly worth a couple of stars, but its a long plod to get up to it. We started with a high belay so managed to do the route in two pitches which worked out well.
A very good climb. Steady for the grade but nothing too difficult in todays condition, it was in good nic. Certainly worth a couple of stars, but its a long plod to get up to it. We started with a high belay so managed to do the route in two pitches which worked out well.
Ken Applegate 2 Jan, 2014 Lead Soft snow on the approach, but the route was in brilliant condition, with chewy ice all the way. Not much gear to be had though!
with Dirk
Soft snow on the approach, but the route was in brilliant condition, with chewy ice all the way. Not much gear to be had though!
with Dirk
RM199 29 Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Feb, 2012 -
shugsan 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Great Climb, so good I had to do it again. Managed to do the squeeze top out this time!
with Marie, JasonK
Great Climb, so good I had to do it again. Managed to do the squeeze top out this time!
with Marie, JasonK
JasonK 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd Great fun route. Another subterranean adventure with the Boyd.
with shugsan
Great fun route. Another subterranean adventure with the Boyd.
with shugsan
Brucemacrosson 23 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Simon Opit
with Simon Opit
WilliamBurnside 25 Jan, 2010 AltLd Tight squeeze through cave to finish
with John Workman
Tight squeeze through cave to finish
with John Workman
shugsan 23 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S Fun Cave at the top, didn't manage to fit through the hole.
Fun Cave at the top, didn't manage to fit through the hole.
j_nelson 23 Jan, 2010 AltLd
with shugsan
with shugsan
Boxy 18 Mar, 2006 AltLd
nickdonohue 15 Dec, 2002 Lead Superb; chockstones and awesome 'trapdoor' squeeze. Joe had to remove his jacket to get through (not easy to reverse with legs dangling in mid-air!)
with Joe Brown
Superb; chockstones and awesome 'trapdoor' squeeze. Joe had to remove his jacket to get through (not easy to reverse with legs dangling in mid-air!)
with Joe Brown
DerwentDiluted ?Jan, 2002 AltLd
Hidden 1 Feb, 1999 -
Hidden ??, 1995 -
cornishmackem 23 Mar, 1993 -
with Chris S, Tim Bantam
with Chris S, Tim Bantam
Hidden ?Mar, 1993 -
crossleysm ??, 1993 AltLd O/S
frost ?Jan, 1992 Solo
uphillnow ?Feb, 1978 Lead Great condition, did the through route option
with john page
Great condition, did the through route option
with john page
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