3 pitches. The obvious chimney line just left of Hourglass Gully. Start at the bottom left of Hourglass gully. Traverse left along a ledge to the foot of the the chimney which is climbed in three pitches. The first is straightforward, while the second contains an awkward but small chockstone. The crux is the last pitch a huge chockstone on the left wall and then take the mixed ground above. A squeeze route behind may be an alternative in lean conditions for the anorexic.

Ticklists: Great routes in the Coe.

Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Tim Rodgers 10/Jan/16 AltLd
Hidden 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
team fat belly 15/Feb/15 -

Climbed in two pitches. One long pitch up the gully and over an initial chockstone leaving a shorter second pitch round the second chockstone and up through the squeeze. The ice is in good condition at the moment and the protection normally emerges with a bit of digging. The squeeze chimney goes but not how you might expect at first.

with Max
Hidden 12/Jan/14 AltLd
010paw 12/Jan/14 AltLd O/S

A very good climb. Steady for the grade but nothing too difficult in todays condition, it was in good nic. Certainly worth a couple of stars, but its a long plod to get up to it. We started with a high belay so managed to do the route in two pitches which worked out well.

Ken Applegate 02/Jan/14 Lead

Soft snow on the approach, but the route was in brilliant condition, with chewy ice all the way. Not much gear to be had though!

with Dirk
RM199 29/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/12 -
shugsan 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Great Climb, so good I had to do it again. Managed to do the squeeze top out this time!

with Marie, Jason King
JasonK 29/Jan/12 AltLd

Great fun route. Another subterranean adventure with the Boyd.

Brucemacrosson 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Simon Opit
WilliamBurnside 25/Jan/10 AltLd

Tight squeeze through cave to finish

with John Workman
shugsan 23/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Fun Cave at the top, didn't manage to fit through the hole.

j_nelson 23/Jan/10 AltLd
with shugsan
Boxy 18/Mar/06 AltLd
nickdonohue 15/Dec/02 Lead

Superb; chockstones and awesome 'trapdoor' squeeze. Joe had to remove his jacket to get through (not easy to reverse with legs dangling in mid-air!)

with Joe Brown
DerwentDiluted ?/Jan/02 AltLd
Hidden 01/Feb/99 -
Hidden ??/1995 -
cornishmackem 23/Mar/93 -
with Chris S, Tim Bantam
Hidden ?/Mar/93 -
crossleysm ??/1993 AltLd O/S
frost ?/Jan/92 Solo
uphillnow ?/Feb/78 Lead

Great condition, did the through route option

with john page
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