UKC

Rockfax Description
Gradually increasing difficulties and varied climbing mark out this route as one of Gull Rock's finest. Start around 7m left of the narrow corner at the right side of the slab. Move up onto foot ledges and take a diagonal line rightwards on positive holds until a move left gains a standing position on a thin flake and foothold (old peg). Good sustained moves directly above the peg lead to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Culm - When the tide's in. , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Culm/Devon options

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User Date Notes
steve_gibbs 4 Nov, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Note a couple of holds are loose, especially the rectangular crimp rail roughly 2m below the pitons; a tricky move to avoid it. Route starts left of the quartz pancakes, following the rightward trending cracks, as per CC guide, not straight up over the pancakes (v bold), as erroneously stated in the old Rockfax guide.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Note a couple of holds are loose, especially the rectangular crimp rail roughly 2m below the pitons; a tricky move to avoid it. Route starts left of the quartz pancakes, following the rightward trending cracks, as per CC guide, not straight up over the pancakes (v bold), as erroneously stated in the old Rockfax guide.

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Guidebooks for Gull Rock - Marsland

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Queen of the May

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Vellan Head Area)

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