Rockfax Description
Set apart from the main slab is this popular hairline crack. Start below the thin crack that starts at the top of a low, ground level cut-out in the slab.
Take the thin crack in its entirety to the top. Belays left and right. To descend walk along the top of the crag to the abseil point above the main section of the slab; or scramble down steep, grassy ground directly behind the belay and walk back around the base of the crag as for the approach. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The first 8m or so have fallen down - what is left looks very thin and very difficult to protect - a pity - the rest of the climb looks lovely.

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Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
cdpuk 12 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Did not start. More of the slab seems to have crumbled at the bottom, comparing my photo to the one previously uploaded. The initial slab is now higher, probably smoother and seemingly unprotected above sharp fallen blocks below. Also seeping lots today from a heavy night of rain. 2 years since the last log on here.
Did not start. More of the slab seems to have crumbled at the bottom, comparing my photo to the one previously uploaded. The initial slab is now higher, probably smoother and seemingly unprotected above sharp fallen blocks below. Also seeping lots today from a heavy night of rain. 2 years since the last log on here.
whiteexplorer 23 Aug, 2016 2nd
th£wrecker 23 Aug, 2016 Lead rpt it was so hot at the crag this day, humidity was a killer. the slab before the overlap is less smeary than last time I'm sure its getting smoother. such a tricky crux gaining the crack.
it was so hot at the crag this day, humidity was a killer. the slab before the overlap is less smeary than last time I'm sure its getting smoother. such a tricky crux gaining the crack.
Kevster 12 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 12 Aug, 2016 2nd
with Kevster
with Kevster
Pero 22 Jul, 2016 2nd
JackM92 22 Jul, 2016 Lead dog Much harder than other Culm Coast E2's of a similar style, e.g Sacre Coer/Harpoon. Fell off moving through the overlap. Loads of loose holds on the route, footholds regularly crumbled too.
with Pero
Much harder than other Culm Coast E2's of a similar style, e.g Sacre Coer/Harpoon. Fell off moving through the overlap. Loads of loose holds on the route, footholds regularly crumbled too.
with Pero
JoeCoxson 6 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S Beni got a bit unstuck getting over the overlap, but was solid after that. Great climb
with beni
Beni got a bit unstuck getting over the overlap, but was solid after that. Great climb
with beni
beni 6 Apr, 2015 Lead dog
Jelly Mould Surfer 7 Mar, 2015 2nd Tough but good.
Tough but good.
timdi 24 Aug, 2014 Lead
Jelly Mould Surfer 13 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Rope got a bit snug at one point. Stiff moving through the overlap as the slab has no friction under the overlap.
Rope got a bit snug at one point. Stiff moving through the overlap as the slab has no friction under the overlap.
Gabe Oliver 5 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Awesome slab crackline. Techy footwork and confidence needed on small hands.
Awesome slab crackline. Techy footwork and confidence needed on small hands.
Motown 31 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Sustained slab climbing that requires some good finger locking as well good footwork. Hard moves start as you go through the overlap. Great route.
with Mark
Sustained slab climbing that requires some good finger locking as well good footwork. Hard moves start as you go through the overlap. Great route.
with Mark
th£wrecker 23 Jun, 2013 TR O/S first overlap felt very hard once into the hand cracks above tho its smooth climbing
first overlap felt very hard once into the hand cracks above tho its smooth climbing
Joel Perkin 9 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S Good climb, felt very difficult, I'd say E2 despite what people say, seconded several E2's and this was the hardest of all of them. Interesting top out, and interesting belay. Worth doing.
with Simon Hammond
Good climb, felt very difficult, I'd say E2 despite what people say, seconded several E2's and this was the hardest of all of them. Interesting top out, and interesting belay. Worth doing.
with Simon Hammond
simonhammond1966 9 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Great climb, hardest bit for me was getting over the overlap at 15 feet - found the holds very thin here. Cam near the top was lovely. Topping out was fine.
Great climb, hardest bit for me was getting over the overlap at 15 feet - found the holds very thin here. Cam near the top was lovely. Topping out was fine.
Hidden 23 Jul, 2012 Lead
Jen Crook 23 Jul, 2012 2nd dog
Marti999 26 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Tom Seccombe 22 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ben Woods, Tj murray
with Ben Woods, Tj murray
Ed morris 28 Jan, 2012 Lead rpt
with Jack
with Jack
Jack jk 28 Jan, 2012 2nd O/S Classic crack climb with an interesting traverse to belay at the top
Classic crack climb with an interesting traverse to belay at the top
Hidden ??, 2012 -
andysroom 8 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
with Lizzie
Nick Wallis ?May, 2011 Lead
with Laura
with Laura
david morse 30 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with lole
with lole
Gigga 19 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with Onion, shorty83
with Onion, shorty83
Onion 19 Mar, 2011 2nd Had to time the start of the climb just right as the tide caught us out. As others have said very loose and chossy top, helmets might be a good idea.
Had to time the start of the climb just right as the tide caught us out. As others have said very loose and chossy top, helmets might be a good idea.
Shorty83 19 Mar, 2011 2nd
with Onion, Gigga
with Onion, Gigga
Ed morris 23 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S Great climbing with very good gear all the way. Excellent route. Shame the belay is of a pile of rubble.
Great climbing with very good gear all the way. Excellent route. Shame the belay is of a pile of rubble.
Haydn Jones 23 Jan, 2011 2nd O/S Ed put a cam in the hold I needed, resulted in me having to make a even bigger stretch than i needed to! horrendous top out and belay, if it wasn't for the top, it would be 3 stars, remember to bring a helmet for this one. :s
Ed put a cam in the hold I needed, resulted in me having to make a even bigger stretch than i needed to! horrendous top out and belay, if it wasn't for the top, it would be 3 stars, remember to bring a helmet for this one. :s
bunn.aroundthebloc 12 Dec, 2010 Lead O/S Sustained 5b around good gear. Think Laterally.
with Tom Thorpe
Sustained 5b around good gear. Think Laterally.
with Tom Thorpe
Owen W-G 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Regular and reassuring gear, unlike some other routes on the crag.
with Matt77
Regular and reassuring gear, unlike some other routes on the crag.
with Matt77
Matt77 25 Sep, 2010 2nd
stuart34 30 Jun, 2010 2nd
with Jack Turner, Rob84
with Jack Turner, Rob84
Rob84 30 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
with Chris James
with Chris James
Hidden 30 Jun, 2010 2nd β
Hidden 5 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
richgac 11 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S A mini south west version of Comes the Dervish. Sandbag E1 in the old CC guide. Chopped a new rope knocking rubble off the top.
with Charlie
A mini south west version of Comes the Dervish. Sandbag E1 in the old CC guide. Chopped a new rope knocking rubble off the top.
with Charlie
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S
alan moore ??, 2010 Lead Not willing to have my E2 tick taken away.
Not willing to have my E2 tick taken away.
Chris_barr ??, 2009 Lead O/S Probably first E2. Not E2 tho.
with Mike
Probably first E2. Not E2 tho.
with Mike
Mark Kemball 1 Mar, 2008 2nd
with Lee Bartrop
with Lee Bartrop
Hidden 27 Feb, 2008 2nd O/S
sebrider ??, 2008 Lead O/S
with Ben Coombs
with Ben Coombs
Mark Kemball 10 Apr, 2007 Lead
with Bex Roughly
with Bex Roughly
Rob Kennard ??, 2007 -
chris sm 20 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
goi.ashmore 14 Jul, 2002 Lead O/S
with Myles Jordan
with Myles Jordan
Stone Muppet ??, 2001 Lead O/S with no boot rubber
with no boot rubber
eroica64 ??, 2001 Lead
with Denis Crampton
with Denis Crampton
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 2000 -
ferret newman 15 Sep, 1998 2nd
with Mad bloke from Rock & Rapids
with Mad bloke from Rock & Rapids
Hidden 4 Jul, 1997 2nd
kylo-342 ?Mar, 1997 Lead O/S
with Keith, Jason M, David Pickford
with Keith, Jason M, David Pickford
andy_pemberton ??, 1997 Lead
with Mary Goddard, Mat Goddard, Steve Gooberman Hill, Katharine Pemberton, Rik Meek
with Mary Goddard, Mat Goddard, Steve Gooberman Hill, Katharine Pemberton, Rik Meek
kylo-342 ?Feb, 1996 Lead dnf failed on last move
with Simon T
failed on last move
with Simon T
Hidden ?Mar, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 1992 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 8 May, 1992 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?May, 1992 -
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
Hidden 28 Aug, 1991 -
Mark Kemball ??, 1990 -
with Alison Dorey
with Alison Dorey
Andy Say 4 Nov, 1989 Lead
mark-abz 12 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
with Phill R
with Phill R
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Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
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Votes cast 16
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set