Rockfax Description
A wildly exposed prow is preceded by a deceptively technical groove. Start below a groove on the seaward face just left of the rounded arete. Make a committing semi-mantel to get established at the base of the groove. Climb the technical groove to where it eases, then traverse a break rightwards to below an overhang on the edge of the exposed prow. Pull through the overhang and move up the short wall to the summit of the prow - belay advisable here. Step across the gap back onto the main crag and the top just above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, Target Routes 2019/2020

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UserDateNotes
Julesthe1st 27 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Great route. An E1 groove (South Groove) followed by an HVS finale. Should therefore be E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route. An E1 groove (South Groove) followed by an HVS finale. Should therefore be E1
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
JendeHoxar 23 Jul 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 23 Jul Lead O/S
Matt Allcock 15 Jul Lead O/S Great climb. Groove harder and less protected than it looks. The second half is a dream.
Great climb. Groove harder and less protected than it looks. The second half is a dream.
JoeCoxson 15 Jun Lead rpt Stark bollock naked other than my cowboy hat
Stark bollock naked other than my cowboy hat
lukegorman 15 Jun 2nd as the day i was born
as the day i was born
cassaela 12 Jun 2nd
with Luke D
with Luke D
Lewis_F 16 May Lead O/S Mid E1 and 5b I think. No way it's cornish E2. Lead all the way in one pitch, bit of drag near the end, doubles advised.
Mid E1 and 5b I think. No way it's cornish E2. Lead all the way in one pitch, bit of drag near the end, doubles advised.
Hidden 11 May 2nd O/S
Jim blackford 1 May Lead O/S Nice route, maybe E1?. Not sure why people say there's no gear: the first crux (easy for 5c) has good, but fiddly gear, if you have the right pieces. The overhang at the end is really only 5a/b but somewhat committing and hard to read with gear at your feet when you start.
Nice route, maybe E1?. Not sure why people say there's no gear: the first crux (easy for 5c) has good, but fiddly gear, if you have the right pieces. The overhang at the end is really only 5a/b but somewhat committing and hard to read with gear at your feet when you start.
ssutton 27 Apr Lead O/S Cool looking finish so happy to be talked into it. Upper groove was the crux for me, balancy without pro (no micros, though not sure they would help)
with Edward
Cool looking finish so happy to be talked into it. Upper groove was the crux for me, balancy without pro (no micros, though not sure they would help)
with Edward
Hidden 21 Apr 2nd rpt
JR22997 30 Mar Lead O/S Great route, exposure is wonderful. Still no hand holds on the groove, still more gear than you think, mantle still requires some rice
Great route, exposure is wonderful. Still no hand holds on the groove, still more gear than you think, mantle still requires some rice
Hidden 30 Mar 2nd O/S
banjoDan 30 Mar 2nd dog Slopey mantles suck, but so did I today. Route is ace with some interesting strenuous moves. (Unrelated) learned how an assisted hoist works today.
Slopey mantles suck, but so did I today. Route is ace with some interesting strenuous moves. (Unrelated) learned how an assisted hoist works today.
Cbulman 3 Feb Lead O/S
PalfreyN 3 Feb 2nd
TomSW 15 Dec, 2018 2nd O/S
with Mat
with Mat
KernowCrag 28 Oct, 2018 TR
Graeme Hammond 20 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with Becky E
with Becky E
surferdan 5 Aug, 2018 - Breezed South Groove, some smeary things are really feeling good in these old shoes I’ve started wearing due to losing my others. Got to the wildly exposed prow, got some pro in moved up found it horrific, came back down to a no hands knee jam. Climbed back up and finally used the arête to help me pull up. What a great route, was so pumped from over gripping, that the juggy handrail even felt hard to hold for a few seconds! Massive well done to Imo for overcoming the fear and motoring up it!
with Imo
Breezed South Groove, some smeary things are really feeling good in these old shoes I’ve started wearing due to losing my others. Got to the wildly exposed prow, got some pro in moved up found it horrific, came back down to a no hands knee jam. Climbed back up and finally used the arête to help me pull up. What a great route, was so pumped from over gripping, that the juggy handrail even felt hard to hold for a few seconds! Massive well done to Imo for overcoming the fear and motoring up it!
with Imo
Hidden ?Aug, 2018 2nd
richgac 2 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Hard work in the insecure groove but all good fun above that
with Charlie
Hard work in the insecure groove but all good fun above that
with Charlie
Tom Seccombe 24 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Hernan (Chilli)
with Hernan (Chilli)
Stroppy 28 May, 2018 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 20 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt Still drunk. 30mph winds. Storm Brian on the horizon. And then there were beers.
Still drunk. 30mph winds. Storm Brian on the horizon. And then there were beers.
omaskrey 20 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
Hazel Morgan 20 Oct, 2017 2nd Fell off the initial mantle move a couple of times but it just took a bit of figuring out. The upper section of the groove was scary but actually felt pretty solid on all the moves. Moving out and up at the top was awesome!
Fell off the initial mantle move a couple of times but it just took a bit of figuring out. The upper section of the groove was scary but actually felt pretty solid on all the moves. Moving out and up at the top was awesome!
lukegorman 20 Oct, 2017 Lead rpt
David Staples 11 Sep, 2017 2nd O/S
Ben1983 17 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Aug, 2017 2nd rpt
dylan.b 21 May, 2017 2nd
George Killaspy 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with dylan.b
with dylan.b
JGriffiths 15 Apr, 2017 TR dog
jchenoweth 15 Apr, 2017 TR rpt
George Budd 11 Feb, 2017 2nd dog My thumb muscle stopped working so I fell off. Again
My thumb muscle stopped working so I fell off. Again
dripdry1 11 Feb, 2017 Lead rpt So psyched to get this on lead; Feel this is somewhat a right of passage for the CUC climbing club! First extreme climb, tenuous start helped by some micro wires! Conditions not ideal; snow in cornwall !!!!
So psyched to get this on lead; Feel this is somewhat a right of passage for the CUC climbing club! First extreme climb, tenuous start helped by some micro wires! Conditions not ideal; snow in cornwall !!!!
Borden 3 Jan, 2017 TR
petecallaghan 3 Jan, 2017 TR dnf
with Borden
with Borden
WillTapp 2 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
dripdry1 2 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S Exposure had me flustered even on second ! But an excellent route !
with JakeB.
Exposure had me flustered even on second ! But an excellent route !
with JakeB.
Hidden 2 Oct, 2016 Lead rpt
George Budd 2 Oct, 2016 2nd dog
with JakeB.
with JakeB.
Chimnastics 10 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Fantastic route! Have seconded South Groove before, but found that section much easier this time. Found a bomber #3cam to protect the heinous opening mantle, and gear throughout is adequate. The first foray over the overhang didn't reveal the holds, so down-climbed and had a rest. Once committed it was fine, and great fun. All in all I'd say benchmark E2 5b, 3*.
Fantastic route! Have seconded South Groove before, but found that section much easier this time. Found a bomber #3cam to protect the heinous opening mantle, and gear throughout is adequate. The first foray over the overhang didn't reveal the holds, so down-climbed and had a rest. Once committed it was fine, and great fun. All in all I'd say benchmark E2 5b, 3*.
Leo Woodhead 28 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Awesome line. Intimidating and exposed. Loads of green lichen makes setting off a scary proposition. Once you're on it though you realise that it's lichen free in all the right places. The groove was particularly awkward and tricky but there's a nice rest once you've finished it. The roof is intimidating, yet the holds are all there and it's not too bad once you commit to the moves.
with Haigh
Awesome line. Intimidating and exposed. Loads of green lichen makes setting off a scary proposition. Once you're on it though you realise that it's lichen free in all the right places. The groove was particularly awkward and tricky but there's a nice rest once you've finished it. The roof is intimidating, yet the holds are all there and it's not too bad once you commit to the moves.
with Haigh
Hidden ?Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
Mattholland96 21 Mar, 2016 2nd
with JakeB.
with JakeB.
Hidden 21 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
G Weatherley 12 Mar, 2016 2nd
with Ed Walker
with Ed Walker
Hidden 3 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 23 Jun, 2015 2nd dog
lukegorman 23 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
with Darren Pyke
with Darren Pyke
JoeCoxson 23 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt Could repeat this route a million times, it'll never get boring. Groove is always harder than it looks.
Could repeat this route a million times, it'll never get boring. Groove is always harder than it looks.
tobydunford 13 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
danboast 13 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S First half is significantly trickier than it looks, followed by a surprisingly easy finish
First half is significantly trickier than it looks, followed by a surprisingly easy finish
Dave Rumney 28 May, 2015 Lead Looks innocuous from the ground, but its very absorbing. Took me a long time to get happy with the gear in the groove.
with Tanya Milner
Looks innocuous from the ground, but its very absorbing. Took me a long time to get happy with the gear in the groove.
with Tanya Milner
Mike_Hayes 18 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with dan parkes
with dan parkes
Hidden 26 Mar, 2015 2nd
Lizard Ollie 26 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S Awesome route! Especially the top half - nice work Joe and Luke!
Awesome route! Especially the top half - nice work Joe and Luke!
JoeCoxson 26 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S First E2, not even done an E1 before the first section, but the last bit is too good to miss. HVS on top of and E1 is a good analogy, the technical crux is definitely in the groove, but the exposure on the poised boulder is massive. Definitely 3 stars
First E2, not even done an E1 before the first section, but the last bit is too good to miss. HVS on top of and E1 is a good analogy, the technical crux is definitely in the groove, but the exposure on the poised boulder is massive. Definitely 3 stars
lukegorman 26 Mar, 2015 Lead β climbed groove onsight but had previously rescued a friend that was failing to climb the overhang section.
climbed groove onsight but had previously rescued a friend that was failing to climb the overhang section.
Grant Fulton 15 Feb, 2015 Lead
with Aidan
with Aidan
jfane ??, 2015 Lead O/S
Wevcore 20 Jul, 2014 2nd dog The grove was impossible! The overhang was excellent!
The grove was impossible! The overhang was excellent!
Luxulyan 20 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Wevcore
with Wevcore
beni ??, 2014 Lead O/S
ewanthomson 14 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S First E2. Great route of two tales. Groove is much harder than it looks but just have to trust your feet and keep moving up. Good rest and then that magnificent top section. ...
with Chris Joyce
First E2. Great route of two tales. Groove is much harder than it looks but just have to trust your feet and keep moving up. Good rest and then that magnificent top section. ...
with Chris Joyce
Hidden 14 Sep, 2013 2nd dog
Misha 26 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Nice route with tricky technical moves. Far harder than it looks to get onto the initial ledge and up the groove but the overhang is fairly straightforward 5a/b jug hauling but spectacular nonetheless. Plus you get to tick a mini summit!
Nice route with tricky technical moves. Far harder than it looks to get onto the initial ledge and up the groove but the overhang is fairly straightforward 5a/b jug hauling but spectacular nonetheless. Plus you get to tick a mini summit!
MD 26 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Thought I'd be able to warm up on the innocuous looking start which turned out to be far harder than it looks. Technical then exposed climbing followed, pleased to get this onsight.
Thought I'd be able to warm up on the innocuous looking start which turned out to be far harder than it looks. Technical then exposed climbing followed, pleased to get this onsight.
Julesthe1st 26 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Great route. An E1 groove (South Groove)followed by an HVS finale. Should really be E1 though that might just be sour grapes as I led South Groove earlier in the Day an only got an E1 tick for my efforts.
with Mike Peak
Great route. An E1 groove (South Groove)followed by an HVS finale. Should really be E1 though that might just be sour grapes as I led South Groove earlier in the Day an only got an E1 tick for my efforts.
with Mike Peak
Happy Wanderer 26 Aug, 2013 2nd dog Technical groove start but swing out onto face fantastic. Rope around nose halted clean pull up to finish. Darn it! So close.
with Misha, MD
Technical groove start but swing out onto face fantastic. Rope around nose halted clean pull up to finish. Darn it! So close.
with Misha, MD
th£wrecker 22 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S wow what a climb the groove is so deceptive and that wild swing out is memorable
wow what a climb the groove is so deceptive and that wild swing out is memorable
Hidden 15 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 15 Aug, 2013 Lead β Led after Sue. Easy to commit to finish once 'jugs up there' was confirmed, crux groove much harder than looks and uses muscles you don't usually use climbing
Led after Sue. Easy to commit to finish once 'jugs up there' was confirmed, crux groove much harder than looks and uses muscles you don't usually use climbing
Mike W 8 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 22 Jul, 2013 2nd
bpmclimb 22 Jul, 2013 Lead rpt
morganator 15 May, 2013 2nd
with International Meet Guest
with International Meet Guest
Cheziar 16 Apr, 2013 2nd β Surprising as I thought would struggle on observation. Recalled tips from Mark (met at Barn 9th April with Matt and NF) felt comfortable with exception on three quarter part of ascent, good hand holds but more slippy than Mouseproof, my smearing was poor, need to get more wall time in.
Surprising as I thought would struggle on observation. Recalled tips from Mark (met at Barn 9th April with Matt and NF) felt comfortable with exception on three quarter part of ascent, good hand holds but more slippy than Mouseproof, my smearing was poor, need to get more wall time in.
Hidden 28 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
SamChessell 31 May, 2012 2nd dog
with MrToad
with MrToad
gingerking ?May, 2012 Lead dnf
Hidden ?May, 2012 2nd
burto 21 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with hertha
with hertha
tiffanykate12 8 Apr, 2012 2nd Hardest climb yet - amazing route, great exposure, pumpy, and such a satisfying finish.
Hardest climb yet - amazing route, great exposure, pumpy, and such a satisfying finish.
Dave89 8 Apr, 2012 Lead O/S
with Baby D
with Baby D
arandall 19 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Never again do I want to use the word 'take' knowing that the last 4 bits of gear are bad micros, i didn't bottle it, quite. Brilliant finish, and my first E2 5c.
Never again do I want to use the word 'take' knowing that the last 4 bits of gear are bad micros, i didn't bottle it, quite. Brilliant finish, and my first E2 5c.
Wendy Watthews 19 Mar, 2012 2nd dog
andy_pemberton 15 Feb, 2012 Lead A great route of contrasting styles! 1st bit feels bold and technical with wonderful granite groove climbing. 2nd bit requires you to 'strap a pair on' and go for it! The below top tip of a #8 hex should be followed!
with Rik Meek
A great route of contrasting styles! 1st bit feels bold and technical with wonderful granite groove climbing. 2nd bit requires you to 'strap a pair on' and go for it! The below top tip of a #8 hex should be followed!
with Rik Meek
Dave Heaton 20 Jan, 2012 Lead
with James Forbes
with James Forbes
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 6 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
msoldn 24 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Incredibly desceptive crux grove when looked at from below. The overhanging prow felt straight forward and pure enjoyment. Fantastic end to a day that started with heavy showers.
with ceri
Incredibly desceptive crux grove when looked at from below. The overhanging prow felt straight forward and pure enjoyment. Fantastic end to a day that started with heavy showers.
with ceri
Ceridwen 24 Aug, 2011 2nd dog I pulled on a piece of gear to retrieve an awkward cam, but climbed it clean other than that. This looks really easy until you get on it, Excellent route!!!
with Uber Mike
I pulled on a piece of gear to retrieve an awkward cam, but climbed it clean other than that. This looks really easy until you get on it, Excellent route!!!
with Uber Mike
gowla 26 Jul, 2011 2nd O/S
with will kumar
with will kumar
Justin T 2 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 2nd
mbradberry2008 29 May, 2011 Lead dog First E2, 1 fall.
First E2, 1 fall.
James Mitchelmore 14 May, 2011 Lead O/S
carlgodfrey 29 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Popkids 24 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Nolan
with Nolan
gb83 24 Apr, 2011 2nd dnf Fell from the crux and took HUGE swing :) got crux on second attempt. Very balancy smear bridging. Escaped left before final overhang. Excellent lead by masa. Not E2 though
with masa
Fell from the crux and took HUGE swing :) got crux on second attempt. Very balancy smear bridging. Escaped left before final overhang. Excellent lead by masa. Not E2 though
with masa
masa-alpin 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S The easiest E2 I have ever done, and I thought it was more likely to be HVS 5b. But my second Graeme said it would be definitely 5c, so perhaps he is right.
with gb83
The easiest E2 I have ever done, and I thought it was more likely to be HVS 5b. But my second Graeme said it would be definitely 5c, so perhaps he is right.
with gb83
mark20 23 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Technical groove, wild prow. Great route.
Technical groove, wild prow. Great route.
Jpsofishy ??, 2011 2nd Beauty! i want it lead.
Beauty! i want it lead.
andrea83 8 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S Really great route. Varied. Balancey and technical then overhanging. Lovely lead by Matt.
Really great route. Varied. Balancey and technical then overhanging. Lovely lead by Matt.
Matt Fry 8 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S Cool, didn't believe that the crux was the groove from the ground - very suprising! Got a no hands rest using a double knee bar at the roof! route of great contrast.
Cool, didn't believe that the crux was the groove from the ground - very suprising! Got a no hands rest using a double knee bar at the roof! route of great contrast.
pielander 5 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 5 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 10 Apr, 2010 2nd
bpmclimb 10 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S The grades don't add up around here IMO. Surely either this is E1 or both this and South Groove are E2.
The grades don't add up around here IMO. Surely either this is E1 or both this and South Groove are E2.
cakebrake ??, 2010 Lead
Marti999 19 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
climbergg 4 May, 2009 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 4 May, 2009 Lead
Bobby Gilbert 1 May, 2009 Lead O/S Not sure of exact date but early 2009
with Alan Dovey
Not sure of exact date but early 2009
with Alan Dovey
Oddjob 14 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S Exposure & Steepness - not my usual scene but very very good.
Exposure & Steepness - not my usual scene but very very good.
Hidden 12 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 12 Apr, 2009 Lead RP
with Charlie Jeynes
with Charlie Jeynes
Master Chief 12 May, 2008 Lead β Awesome climb!!
with jgclimb
Awesome climb!!
with jgclimb
Master Chief 23 Apr, 2008 TR O/S
with jgclimb
with jgclimb
Hidden 20 Mar, 2008 Lead O/S
Jez 16 Apr, 2006 Lead O/S
with Courtney
with Courtney
Mark Stevenson 21 Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
jfletcher 15 Jul, 2001 Lead
with Charlotte Fletcher
with Charlotte Fletcher
Neil McA 1 Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
with Silvio
with Silvio
JerryD ?Aug, 1998 Lead
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 36
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
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