Rockfax Description
A wildly exposed prow is preceded by a deceptively technical groove. Start below a groove on the seaward face just left of the rounded arete. Make a committing semi-mantel to get established at the base of the groove. Climb the technical groove to where it eases, then traverse a break rightwards to below an overhang on the edge of the exposed prow. Pull through the overhang and move up the short wall to the summit of the prow - belay advisable here. Step across the gap back onto the main crag and the top just above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics.

George Budd 11/Feb 2nd dog

My thumb muscle stopped working so I fell off. Again

dripdry1 11/Feb Lead rpt

So psyched to get this on lead; Feel this is somewhat a right of passage for the CUC climbing club! First extreme climb, tenuous start helped by some micro wires! Conditions not ideal; snow in cornwall !!!!

petecallaghan 03/Jan TR dnf
with Scott
Borden 03/Jan TR
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
dripdry1 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S

Exposure had me flustered even on second ! But an excellent route !

George Budd 02/Oct/16 2nd dog
with JakeB.
WillTapp 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
manbat 10/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Fantastic route! Have seconded South Groove before, but found that section much easier this time. Found a bomber #3cam to protect the heinous opening mantle, and gear throughout is adequate. The first foray over the overhang didn't reveal the holds, so down-climbed and had a rest. Once committed it was fine, and great fun. All in all I'd say benchmark E2 5b, 3*.

Leo Woodhead 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Awesome line. Intimidating and exposed. Loads of green lichen makes setting off a scary proposition. Once you're on it though you realise that it's lichen free in all the right places. The groove was particularly awkward and tricky but there's a nice rest once you've finished it. The roof is intimidating, yet the holds are all there and it's not too bad once you commit to the moves.

with Haigh
Hidden ?/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Mattholland96 21/Mar/16 2nd
G Weatherley 12/Mar/16 2nd
with Ed Walker
Hidden 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/15 2nd O/S
JoeCoxson 23/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Could repeat this route a million times, it'll never get boring. Groove is always harder than it looks.

with Aimee Jewitt-Harris
Aimee Louise 23/Jun/15 2nd

Super fun. Found the gully surprisingly easy, found the overhang surprisingly hard. Would love to repeat again after warming up better - my arms were so pumped I couldn't even hold my chalk ball! Thanks for the lead Coxson.

lukegorman 23/Jun/15 Lead rpt
with Darren Pyke
tobydunford 13/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
danboast 13/Jun/15 Lead O/S

First half is significantly trickier than it looks, followed by a surprisingly easy finish

Dave Rumney 28/May/15 Lead

Looks innocuous from the ground, but its very absorbing. Took me a long time to get happy with the gear in the groove.

with Tanya Milner
Mike_Hayes 18/May/15 Lead O/S
with dan parkes
Hidden 26/Mar/15 2nd
Lizard Ollie 26/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Awesome route! Especially the top half - nice work Joe and Luke!

JoeCoxson 26/Mar/15 Lead O/S

First E2, not even done an E1 before the first section, but the last bit is too good to miss. HVS on top of and E1 is a good analogy, the technical crux is definitely in the groove, but the exposure on the poised boulder is massive. Definitely 3 stars

lukegorman 26/Mar/15 Lead β

climbed groove onsight but had previously rescued a friend that was failing to climb the overhang section.

fulton333 15/Feb/15 Lead
with Aidan
jfane ??/2015 Lead O/S
Wevcore 20/Jul/14 2nd dog

The grove was impossible! The overhang was excellent!

with Rich
Luxulyan 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Wevcore
beni ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Sep/13 2nd dog
ewanthomson 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

First E2. Great route of two tales. Groove is much harder than it looks but just have to trust your feet and keep moving up. Good rest and then that magnificent top section. ...

with Chris Joyce
MD 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Thought I'd be able to warm up on the innocuous looking start which turned out to be far harder than it looks. Technical then exposed climbing followed, pleased to get this onsight.

with Jo, Misha
Happy Wanderer 26/Aug/13 2nd dog

Technical groove start but swing out onto face fantastic. Rope around nose halted clean pull up to finish. Darn it! So close.

Misha 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Nice route with tricky technical moves. Far harder than it looks to get onto the initial ledge and up the groove but the overhang is fairly straightforward 5a/b jug hauling but spectacular nonetheless. Plus you get to tick a mini summit!

with Jo, Mike D
Julesthe1st 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Great route. An E1 groove (South Groove)followed by an HVS finale. Should really be E1 though that might just be sour grapes as I led South Groove earlier in the Day an only got an E1 tick for my efforts.

with Mike
dready 22/Aug/13 Lead O/S

wow what a climb the groove is so deceptive and that wild swing out is memorable

Owen W-G 15/Aug/13 Lead β

Led after Sue. Easy to commit to finish once 'jugs up there' was confirmed, crux groove much harder than looks and uses muscles you don't usually use climbing

Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Mike W 08/Aug/13 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 22/Jul/13 2nd
morganator 15/May/13 2nd
with International Meet Guest
Cheziar 16/Apr/13 2nd β

Surprising as I thought would struggle on observation. Recalled tips from Mark (met at Barn 9th April with Matt and NF) felt comfortable with exception on three quarter part of ascent, good hand holds but more slippy than Mouseproof, my smearing was poor, need to get more wall time in.

tim.fairhall 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Hui
SamChessell 31/May/12 2nd dog
gingerking ?/May/12 Lead dnf
burto 21/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with hertha
tiffanykate12 08/Apr/12 2nd

Hardest climb yet - amazing route, great exposure, pumpy, and such a satisfying finish.

Dave89 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Baby D
arandall 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Never again do I want to use the word 'take' knowing that the last 4 bits of gear are bad micros, i didn't bottle it, quite. Brilliant finish, and my first E2 5c.

Wendy Watthews 19/Mar/12 2nd dog
andy_pemberton 15/Feb/12 Lead

A great route of contrasting styles! 1st bit feels bold and technical with wonderful granite groove climbing. 2nd bit requires you to 'strap a pair on' and go for it! The below top tip of a #8 hex should be followed!

with Rik Meek
Dave Heaton 20/Jan/12 Lead
with James Forbes
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Lewis Stewart 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S
with Aiden
msoldn 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Incredibly desceptive crux grove when looked at from below. The overhanging prow felt straight forward and pure enjoyment. Fantastic end to a day that started with heavy showers.

with Ceri
Ceridwen 24/Aug/11 2nd dog

I pulled on a piece of gear to retrieve an awkward cam, but climbed it clean other than that. This looks really easy until you get on it, Excellent route!!!

with Uber Mike
gowla 26/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with will kumar
Justin T 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Cherry
Hidden 02/Jul/11 2nd
mbradberry2008 29/May/11 Lead dog

First E2, 1 fall.

James Mitchelmore 14/May/11 Lead O/S
carlgodfrey 29/Apr/11 Lead O/S
gb83 24/Apr/11 2nd dnf

Fell from the crux and took HUGE swing :) got crux on second attempt. Very balancy smear bridging. Escaped left before final overhang. Excellent lead by masa. Not E2 though

with masa
Popkids 24/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with Nolan
masa-alpin 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

The easiest E2 I have ever done, and I thought it was more likely to be HVS 5b. But my second Graeme said it would be definitely 5c, so perhaps he is right.

mark20 23/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Technical groove, wild prow. Great route.

Jpsofishy ??/2011 2nd

Beauty! i want it lead.

andrea83 08/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Really great route. Varied. Balancey and technical then overhanging. Lovely lead by Matt.

Matt Fry 08/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Cool, didn't believe that the crux was the groove from the ground - very suprising! Got a no hands rest using a double knee bar at the roof! route of great contrast.

pielander 05/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 05/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/10 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

The grades don't add up around here IMO. Surely either this is E1 or both this and South Groove are E2.

with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 10/Apr/10 2nd
cakebrake ??/2010 Lead
Marti999 19/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Tim M 04/May/09 Lead
with Emma
climbergg 04/May/09 2nd
Bobby Gilbert 01/May/09 Lead O/S

Not sure of exact date but early 2009

with Alan Dovey
Oddjob 14/Apr/09 Lead O/S

Exposure & Steepness - not my usual scene but very very good.

Hidden 12/Apr/09 Lead O/S
jchenoweth 12/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Charlie Jeynes
Master Chief 12/May/08 Lead β

Awesome climb!!

with Jeremy
Master Chief 23/Apr/08 TR O/S
with Jeremy
Hidden 20/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Jez 16/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Courtney
Hidden 21/Apr/03 Lead O/S
jfletcher 15/Jul/01 Lead
with Charlotte Fletcher
JerryD ?/Aug/98 Lead
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