Rockfax Description
The superb soaring crack in the left-hand side of the main wall. The start is often damp and the whole thing can be a bit greasy - when bone-dry it might just be VS. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS).

migs493 02/Sep/17 Lead β

Still great, if a little greasy at the start!

Hidden 05/Aug/17 2nd
joese7en 09/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with James M
Rory_Cummings_NI 08/Jul/17 2nd
Hannes B 08/Jul/17 Lead β
with Chris, Rory
liebs 08/Jul/17 Lead β
Rory_Cummings_NI 06/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Keith Swainson 25/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Reasonable condition, crack was dry for hands but face holds were a skating rink for feet for a few metres, grubby but fine for the majority. Continuesly brilliant jams. Great route, glad we seeked it out (in a dry spell).

Georgie25 25/Jun/17 2nd

Battled through this dirty jamming - type two fun!! Secretly enjoyed it really!

Hidden 21/Jun/17 2nd
jshields 21/Jun/17 Lead

Repeat, first done in great condition 1994, now the first half is about A1!!!!

mapperley samurai 20/Jun/17 Lead

Finally, in condition. Well as in condition as its ever going to get. It probably would be insultingly easy if you could trust all the smaller footholds on the face but with these being greasy you have to rely on the jams and it probably does weigh in at HVS. Good climbing once the moss filled, slimy bit at the start has been passed.

with Liz Fowler
Dizz 20/Jun/17 2nd

Did not know that jamming in moss was a thing. Good adventure

with Kevin RM
Droyd 19/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Sufficiently wet and dirty that HVS felt reasonable. Very good though.

with Jimmy
Flavio 15/Jun/17 Solo O/S

Third time lucky. Its in condition, get on it now!

Hidden 09/Jun/17 Lead G/U
BRoe 09/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Loz
Andy Moles 11/Oct/16 Solo
with shunt
The Reaper 15/Aug/16 Lead β

Not quite an on-sight because I'd failed on the first move two years previously. First few moves really are hard requiring full commitment on sketchy slippery jams so took a while to get past this section. After that it was great robust jamming up crusty cracks to a filthy rattly top out. Character building stuff.

kermit_uk 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Banging. Really quite damp and greasy all the way and the odd dry hold was just covered in sand, all added to the experience. Topped out as light was fading from half way up couldn't see my belayer anymore, felt very atmospheric. Great route.

Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead dnf
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd RP
The Reaper 30/Jul/14 Lead dnf

Thought it would be drier than it was. Tried cleaning/drying the first 3 m with my thin cotton windproof but to no avail. Needed fluffy towels. Very atmospheric place and an inspiring line!

Hidden ??/2014 -
tgeh 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Great indeed! Very dirty, with a greasy start. Good to get this one done.

Hidden 14/Jul/13 2nd dog
whitehouse_rhys 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with lyra whitehouse
David Sherratt ??/2013 Lead O/S
David Sherratt ??/2013 Lead O/S
David Sherratt ??/2013 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 20/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Greasy at the bottom both in the crack and on the face. Found this bit quite tough

with Colin Struthers
Hidden 24/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
marcoleptic 03/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Last minute idea on the last day of the Indian Summer. V hot & humid, bottom 4M a bit greasy but then awesome climbing all the way to the top. Possibly the best route this year!

with Tommo
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead β
Ultimo Dyno Boy 22/Jul/11 Lead dog

Really hard start. Struggled took an hour and half. Colin started the second but gave up after a few minutes. Rob seconded it in just over 5 minutes.

with Collin, Rob
CrashMat Rob 22/Jul/11 2nd β

Climbed with DHcol and Ultimo Dyno Boy who this time took the sharp end, the start was a little damp with not a lot of fiction hence it seemed like a life time for him to get more than 10 feet off the ground, anyway one and a half hours later it was time for DHcol to clean the route, A unenthusiastic attempt at the start and it was back to the ground, complaining “my hands are cold, my hands are COLD” wot it’s the middle of summer?

with Glynn, Colin
akhughes 08/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Climbed in a thunderstorm. Was down this way and not likely to drive down for one route so thought I better just man up. Even though it was soaking, it made the starting moves a bit trickier. After that, jugs (jams) away.

jtree03 14/May/11 Lead
with dazza, Tony, Brother Al
Mr. K 04/May/11 Lead O/S

Dirty and chock-full of esoteric WIN! Really glad to finally get this done. =o)

jwpil 04/May/11 2nd O/S
with Gordon
gordonday 04/May/11 Lead O/S

Excellent route, just wish the whole wall was moved to Millstone. Third visit to do it, dry as a bone!

with Jack
Dhcol 02/May/11 2nd dog

Wow an epic climb for me fell a couple of meters from the start and ended up back on the ground, had a rest then a great battle to get my Lard up it :-) glad I did it tho, it's a stunning line. Nice and dry when we got there.

CrashMat Rob 02/May/11 Lead O/S

Not been doing Trad Stuff for a while so this one was a good one to get me head round leading again. you can see the video here:

with Nicky, Colin
adam carless 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Definitely a great crack! Hand jams and bomber gear all the way. Admittedly it was uncommonly dry and clean.

victim of mathematics 01/May/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant. In perfect condition at the moment. Almost every hold is a perfect jam. Mmm.

with Adam
victim of mathematics 01/May/11 2nd rpt

To retreive Adam's gear.

with Adam
migs493 25/Apr/11 2nd β

bottom section was greasy despite over two weeks of dry weather!

with LO
lozowen 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Superb! In great condition due to dry weather. Everybody should do this climb,up there with the best HVS's in the country, must be onsighted to get full impact.

Boy 23/Apr/11 Lead

Belay off helpful guy at the crag

Hidden 23/Apr/11 Lead rpt
disturbed_one51 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 10/Apr/11 Lead

The damp and greeness made this really hard work and very tenuous.

Hidden 03/Apr/11 Lead
Dan Lane 29/Oct/10 2nd O/S

great route, although fairly damp today. lots of jamming.

with Martin Kocsis
crazy pierre 01/Sep/10 2nd
frume 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic climb, Hard start, took a bit of working out as it was very slimy slipery to start with. Once past that crux, it was jamming all the way with very nice moves and small ledges just where you want them. Very glad I went out of my way to Duke's Quarry for this climb.

stephenhartley 02/Aug/10 2nd
with Burns
spidey 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

perfect jamming crack! jim slipped and nearly ripped his arm off! can be slippy low down

with Jimmy
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S
helios 10/Jul/10 2nd
cymjt ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 03/Oct/09 Lead O/S

EXCELLENT the best jaming route in the peak??

Hidden 03/Oct/09 2nd
DerwentDiluted 27/Sep/09 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Helen Gibson 24/Sep/09 2nd
with Paul
Hidden 13/Sep/09 2nd dnf
cem 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Jenny Andexer, Mark O'Neill, Paul Bolton
Paul ablitt 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 22/Jun/09 Lead
Hidden 24/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 26/Apr/08 Lead

Dry spring day but damp moss in crack at start - HVS 5b

with Phil Ashton
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
clintos 19/Apr/07 Lead
with jonny green
Mike_Hayes ??/2007 Lead O/S
Sankey 08/Oct/06 2nd O/S

A must do, superb jams and moves above the slippery start

with Reuben
Sam and will 18/May/05 Lead O/S

billiant jamming crack

with Anthony Bennett
nickdonohue 11/May/03 Lead

abbed off afterwards

with Kath Donohue
Chalky Cat ??/2003 2nd O/S
with Dom
Peakology ??/2003 Lead O/S
with cat
Dave Bond 12/Jul/01 Lead O/S
with Adrian Whitehall
fellgazelle ??/2000 2nd
with Dave Fooks
Rog Wilko ?/Jun/99 Lead

A great, great route!! Did this in the morning, followed by Original Route (High Tor) in the afternoon. A superb day!

with Adrian Perkin
Roget 07/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with jon
Budge 17/Apr/97 Lead rpt
with Mike Oates
nickcanute ??/1997 Lead O/S
Budge ?/Aug/96 Lead dog
with Brian Ottewell
Hidden 28/Aug/94 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/94 2nd O/S
JJL 15/May/93 Lead O/S

Morning of my wedding

charlesmfrench 05/Sep/91 2nd O/S
RichardMc 04/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Tony Williams
tapley 13/Jun/89 Lead
with Tony Raphael
Hidden ?/May/88 Lead
Hidden ??/1987 -
Neil McA 12/Jun/86 Solo O/S

Quite exciting.

sadams 04/May/86 2nd
with Mark Bonham
Chris Ellis 07/Sep/85 Lead
with Andy Barker
Hidden ??/1985 Lead O/S
mark-abz ?/Jul/82 2nd
with Brian W
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ?/May/79 -
Hidden 02/Feb/76 Lead
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 28
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set