25m.

Rockfax Description
The superb soaring crack in the left-hand side of the main wall. The start is often damp and the whole thing can be a bit greasy - when bone-dry it might just be VS. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Proper Cracks UK

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Alex Veitch 23 Jul 2nd
Hidden 23 Jul Lead O/S
KellieBakesFudge 24 May 2nd
Andy Waterhouse 24 May Lead O/S Wet at the start and very slippy. After that tho - just pure jamming heaven!! If Rockfax did a Top 3 climb in the whole eastern book - this would be one!! Amazing!!!
Wet at the start and very slippy. After that tho - just pure jamming heaven!! If Rockfax did a Top 3 climb in the whole eastern book - this would be one!! Amazing!!!
charlie broe 5 May Lead O/S
with Pam
with Pam
Hidden 11 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Jake Young 11 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Jonny Nick 11 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
madasten 9 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Lovely!
with Lew, Kye Gregory
Lovely!
with Lew, Kye Gregory
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Lewproff 9 Aug, 2018 TR
Kye Gregory 9 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
tim-the-evans 8 Aug, 2018 2nd
dynoseb 7 Aug, 2018 2nd β
Hati W 7 Aug, 2018 2nd β
Nick1812P 7 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
with dynoseb, Hati
with dynoseb, Hati
Coel Hellier 3 Aug, 2018 Lead
Graeme Hammond 2 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt On Andy's gear as done before.
On Andy's gear as done before.
Bradbury 2 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
gaz3212 24 Jul, 2018 2nd RP
FeargalR 24 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Andypeak 24 Jul, 2018 Lead Wow! Bone dry and the best gritstone route I have ever done.
Wow! Bone dry and the best gritstone route I have ever done.
Jamiewalkerjones 24 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Truly amazing. One of the best routes I've ever done! Anywhere! GET JAMMING QUICK BEFORE IT RAINS AGAIN!
Truly amazing. One of the best routes I've ever done! Anywhere! GET JAMMING QUICK BEFORE IT RAINS AGAIN!
Dave Garnett 22 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Well worth the wait! Lovely jamming, atmospheric setting, one of the best routes of the year so far.
with Jules Cox, Mick Hill
Well worth the wait! Lovely jamming, atmospheric setting, one of the best routes of the year so far.
with Jules Cox, Mick Hill
gritstone7 20 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Bone dry so felt straightforward. Beautiful crackline
Bone dry so felt straightforward. Beautiful crackline
harry_lewis 18 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Matt Arnold
with Matt Arnold
mapperley samurai 16 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Good enough to come back to.
with Spenser Gray
Good enough to come back to.
with Spenser Gray
gavster 15 Jul, 2018 Lead
with Jack
with Jack
Alkis 10 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Pretty much dry. Bottom section a bit greasy but not wet. Felt 5b, the high step moves are not really 5a.
with Jack Lisle
Pretty much dry. Bottom section a bit greasy but not wet. Felt 5b, the high step moves are not really 5a.
with Jack Lisle
cragtyke 10 Jul, 2018 Lead Bit greasy at start, but ok afterwards, hvs 5a seems about right. No micros needed.
with john g
Bit greasy at start, but ok afterwards, hvs 5a seems about right. No micros needed.
with john g
alexbooker87 10 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Peeled off the start first time. Dry but still greasy at the start (and hard!) Fine on first repeat.
with Neal Bardy
Peeled off the start first time. Dry but still greasy at the start (and hard!) Fine on first repeat.
with Neal Bardy
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 2nd
TobyA 7 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Great climb. Never desperate but keeps coming at you. The bottom was still a bit greasy even after a month of consistently dry and hot weather.
with Olli
Great climb. Never desperate but keeps coming at you. The bottom was still a bit greasy even after a month of consistently dry and hot weather.
with Olli
nick ferro 7 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt
with Oli Birkill
with Oli Birkill
Deezel65 6 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S bone dry today - get on it whilst you can! Fantastic route route in a really atmospheric setting - never desperate. In these conditions more like VS 5a although I can imagine it being quite fun when damp. Brilliant route well deserving the 3 stars.
bone dry today - get on it whilst you can! Fantastic route route in a really atmospheric setting - never desperate. In these conditions more like VS 5a although I can imagine it being quite fun when damp. Brilliant route well deserving the 3 stars.
Hidden 6 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
franhammond92 5 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Cracking route. Not often on grit you wish you had three of the same size cams.
with David Robinnette
Cracking route. Not often on grit you wish you had three of the same size cams.
with David Robinnette
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt
nick ferro 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S June 2018 was very dry, first 4m was only slightly damp on one or two holds, the remaining 21m was dry. I did run out of medium sized cams half way up, which made the top half interesting! Thank you Paula for the belay.
June 2018 was very dry, first 4m was only slightly damp on one or two holds, the remaining 21m was dry. I did run out of medium sized cams half way up, which made the top half interesting! Thank you Paula for the belay.
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Teappleby 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S I'm crocs for Ellie and Roz's amusement, although didn't end how they hoped it would. Nice route. Real Jurassic feel to the quarry.
I'm crocs for Ellie and Roz's amusement, although didn't end how they hoped it would. Nice route. Real Jurassic feel to the quarry.
Dr Matt 29 Jun, 2018 2nd rpt Memorable outing, led up by Paul. Spicy beginning to adventure with large branch half falling with a dramatic crack form the Ash tree above. It's still up there - hope it doesn't fall on the guy coming back to do Dharma at the w/end....Oh yeah nearly forgot to say - the start is well harder than 5a!!
Memorable outing, led up by Paul. Spicy beginning to adventure with large branch half falling with a dramatic crack form the Ash tree above. It's still up there - hope it doesn't fall on the guy coming back to do Dharma at the w/end....Oh yeah nearly forgot to say - the start is well harder than 5a!!
Andy Peak 1 28 Jun, 2018 Solo A1 aid to get to the top of the cliff as I dident want to upset the farmer who was tending his sheep in the field above. Took 2hrs, room for improvement on this style:-)
A1 aid to get to the top of the cliff as I dident want to upset the farmer who was tending his sheep in the field above. Took 2hrs, room for improvement on this style:-)
Andy Peak 1 26 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Very good lovley
Very good lovley
Hidden 20 Jun, 2018 Lead
Dan-Cheetham 12 May, 2018 -
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2018 -
Dan-Cheetham ??, 2018 -
migs493 2 Sep, 2017 Lead β Still great, if a little greasy at the start!
Still great, if a little greasy at the start!
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 2nd
joese7en 9 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with James M
with James M
Rory_Cummings_NI 8 Jul, 2017 2nd
Hannes B 8 Jul, 2017 Lead β
cmliebmann 8 Jul, 2017 Lead β
Rory_Cummings_NI 6 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
Keith Swainson 25 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Reasonable condition, crack was dry for hands but face holds were a skating rink for feet for a few metres, grubby but fine for the majority. Continuesly brilliant jams. Great route, glad we seeked it out (in a dry spell).
Reasonable condition, crack was dry for hands but face holds were a skating rink for feet for a few metres, grubby but fine for the majority. Continuesly brilliant jams. Great route, glad we seeked it out (in a dry spell).
Georgie25 25 Jun, 2017 2nd Battled through this dirty jamming - type two fun!! Secretly enjoyed it really!
Battled through this dirty jamming - type two fun!! Secretly enjoyed it really!
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 2nd
Hidden 21 Jun, 2017 Lead
mapperley samurai 20 Jun, 2017 Lead Finally, in condition. Well as in condition as its ever going to get. It probably would be insultingly easy if you could trust all the smaller footholds on the face but with these being greasy you have to rely on the jams and it probably does weigh in at HVS. Good climbing once the moss filled, slimy bit at the start has been passed.
with Dizz
Finally, in condition. Well as in condition as its ever going to get. It probably would be insultingly easy if you could trust all the smaller footholds on the face but with these being greasy you have to rely on the jams and it probably does weigh in at HVS. Good climbing once the moss filled, slimy bit at the start has been passed.
with Dizz
Dizz 20 Jun, 2017 2nd Did not know that jamming in moss was a thing. Good adventure
with Kevin RM
Did not know that jamming in moss was a thing. Good adventure
with Kevin RM
Droyd 19 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Sufficiently wet and dirty that HVS felt reasonable. Very good though.
with Jimmy
Sufficiently wet and dirty that HVS felt reasonable. Very good though.
with Jimmy
Flavio 15 Jun, 2017 Solo O/S Third time lucky. Such a shithole but such good jamming
Third time lucky. Such a shithole but such good jamming
Hidden 9 Jun, 2017 Lead G/U
BRoe 9 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Loz
with Loz
Andy Moles 11 Oct, 2016 Solo
with shunt
with shunt
olllie26 15 Aug, 2016 2nd
The Reaper 15 Aug, 2016 Lead β Not quite an on-sight because I'd failed on the first move two years previously. First few moves really are hard requiring full commitment on sketchy slippery jams so took a while to get past this section. After that it was great robust jamming up crusty cracks to a filthy rattly top out. Character building stuff.
Not quite an on-sight because I'd failed on the first move two years previously. First few moves really are hard requiring full commitment on sketchy slippery jams so took a while to get past this section. After that it was great robust jamming up crusty cracks to a filthy rattly top out. Character building stuff.
kermit_uk 27 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Banging. Really quite damp and greasy all the way and the odd dry hold was just covered in sand, all added to the experience. Topped out as light was fading from half way up couldn't see my belayer anymore, felt very atmospheric. Great route.
Banging. Really quite damp and greasy all the way and the odd dry hold was just covered in sand, all added to the experience. Topped out as light was fading from half way up couldn't see my belayer anymore, felt very atmospheric. Great route.
Hidden 29 Aug, 2015 Lead dnf
Hidden 7 Aug, 2014 2nd RP
The Reaper 30 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf Thought it would be drier than it was. Tried cleaning/drying the first 3 m with my thin cotton windproof but to no avail. Needed fluffy towels. Very atmospheric place and an inspiring line!
Thought it would be drier than it was. Tried cleaning/drying the first 3 m with my thin cotton windproof but to no avail. Needed fluffy towels. Very atmospheric place and an inspiring line!
Hidden ??, 2014 -
tgeh 21 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S
with dan geh
with dan geh
Dan Geh 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Great indeed! Very dirty, with a greasy start. Good to get this one done.
with tgeh
Great indeed! Very dirty, with a greasy start. Good to get this one done.
with tgeh
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
whitehouse_rhys 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
with lyra whitehouse
with lyra whitehouse
David Sherratt ??, 2013 Lead O/S
David Sherratt ??, 2013 Lead O/S
David Sherratt ??, 2013 Lead O/S
harold walmsley 20 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S Greasy at the bottom both in the crack and on the face. Found this bit quite tough
with Colin Struthers
Greasy at the bottom both in the crack and on the face. Found this bit quite tough
with Colin Struthers
steveb2006 24 Oct, 2011 Lead First lead since hurting my ankle falling off High Plains Drifter
with Tim Cairns
First lead since hurting my ankle falling off High Plains Drifter
with Tim Cairns
Hidden 16 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
marcoleptic 3 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S Last minute idea on the last day of the Indian Summer. V hot & humid, bottom 4M a bit greasy but then awesome climbing all the way to the top. Possibly the best route this year!
with Tommo
Last minute idea on the last day of the Indian Summer. V hot & humid, bottom 4M a bit greasy but then awesome climbing all the way to the top. Possibly the best route this year!
with Tommo
Hidden 7 Aug, 2011 Lead β
Ultimo Dyno Boy 22 Jul, 2011 Lead dog Really hard start. Struggled took an hour and half. Colin started the second but gave up after a few minutes. Rob seconded it in just over 5 minutes.
Really hard start. Struggled took an hour and half. Colin started the second but gave up after a few minutes. Rob seconded it in just over 5 minutes.
CrashMat Rob 22 Jul, 2011 2nd β Climbed with DHcol and Ultimo Dyno Boy who this time took the sharp end, the start was a little damp with not a lot of fiction hence it seemed like a life time for him to get more than 10 feet off the ground, anyway one and a half hours later it was time for DHcol to clean the route, A unenthusiastic attempt at the start and it was back to the ground, complaining “my hands are cold, my hands are COLD” wot it’s the middle of summer?
Climbed with DHcol and Ultimo Dyno Boy who this time took the sharp end, the start was a little damp with not a lot of fiction hence it seemed like a life time for him to get more than 10 feet off the ground, anyway one and a half hours later it was time for DHcol to clean the route, A unenthusiastic attempt at the start and it was back to the ground, complaining “my hands are cold, my hands are COLD” wot it’s the middle of summer?
akhughes 8 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Climbed in a thunderstorm. Was down this way and not likely to drive down for one route so thought I better just man up. Even though it was soaking, it made the starting moves a bit trickier. After that, jugs (jams) away.
Climbed in a thunderstorm. Was down this way and not likely to drive down for one route so thought I better just man up. Even though it was soaking, it made the starting moves a bit trickier. After that, jugs (jams) away.
jtree03 14 May, 2011 Lead
with dazza, Tony, Brother Al
with dazza, Tony, Brother Al
Mr. K 4 May, 2011 Lead O/S Dirty and chock-full of esoteric WIN! Really glad to finally get this done. =o)
with figfour
Dirty and chock-full of esoteric WIN! Really glad to finally get this done. =o)
with figfour
Hidden 4 May, 2011 2nd O/S
gordonday 4 May, 2011 Lead O/S Excellent route, just wish the whole wall was moved to Millstone. Third visit to do it, dry as a bone!
with Jack
Excellent route, just wish the whole wall was moved to Millstone. Third visit to do it, dry as a bone!
with Jack
Dhcol 2 May, 2011 2nd dog Wow an epic climb for me fell a couple of meters from the start and ended up back on the ground, had a rest then a great battle to get my Lard up it :-) glad I did it tho, it's a stunning line. Nice and dry when we got there.
Wow an epic climb for me fell a couple of meters from the start and ended up back on the ground, had a rest then a great battle to get my Lard up it :-) glad I did it tho, it's a stunning line. Nice and dry when we got there.
CrashMat Rob 2 May, 2011 Lead O/S Not been doing Trad Stuff for a while so this one was a good one to get me head round leading again. you can see the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jxhmtc2zWE
Not been doing Trad Stuff for a while so this one was a good one to get me head round leading again. you can see the video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1jxhmtc2zWE
adam carless 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S Definitely a great crack! Hand jams and bomber gear all the way. Admittedly it was uncommonly dry and clean.
Definitely a great crack! Hand jams and bomber gear all the way. Admittedly it was uncommonly dry and clean.
victim of mathematics 1 May, 2011 Lead O/S Brilliant. In perfect condition at the moment. Almost every hold is a perfect jam. Mmm.
Brilliant. In perfect condition at the moment. Almost every hold is a perfect jam. Mmm.
victim of mathematics 1 May, 2011 2nd rpt To retreive Adam's gear.
To retreive Adam's gear.
migs493 25 Apr, 2011 2nd β bottom section was greasy despite over two weeks of dry weather!
with lozowen
bottom section was greasy despite over two weeks of dry weather!
with lozowen
lozowen 25 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Superb! In great condition due to dry weather. Everybody should do this climb,up there with the best HVS's in the country, must be onsighted to get full impact.
Superb! In great condition due to dry weather. Everybody should do this climb,up there with the best HVS's in the country, must be onsighted to get full impact.
Boy 23 Apr, 2011 Lead Belay off helpful guy at the crag
Belay off helpful guy at the crag
Hidden 23 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt
disturbed_one51 10 Apr, 2011 2nd
Jonathan Hall 10 Apr, 2011 Lead The damp and greeness made this really hard work and very tenuous.
The damp and greeness made this really hard work and very tenuous.
Hidden 3 Apr, 2011 Lead
Dan Lane 29 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S great route, although fairly damp today. lots of jamming.
with Martin Kocsis
great route, although fairly damp today. lots of jamming.
with Martin Kocsis
crazy pierre 1 Sep, 2010 2nd
with frume
with frume
frume 1 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Fantastic climb, Hard start, took a bit of working out as it was very slimy slipery to start with. Once past that crux, it was jamming all the way with very nice moves and small ledges just where you want them. Very glad I went out of my way to Duke's Quarry for this climb.
Fantastic climb, Hard start, took a bit of working out as it was very slimy slipery to start with. Once past that crux, it was jamming all the way with very nice moves and small ledges just where you want them. Very glad I went out of my way to Duke's Quarry for this climb.
stephenhartley 2 Aug, 2010 2nd
spidey 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S perfect jamming crack! jim slipped and nearly ripped his arm off! can be slippy low down
perfect jamming crack! jim slipped and nearly ripped his arm off! can be slippy low down
Hidden 10 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S
helios 10 Jul, 2010 2nd
cymjt ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 3 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S EXCELLENT the best jaming route in the peak??
with Paul87
EXCELLENT the best jaming route in the peak??
with Paul87
Hidden 3 Oct, 2009 2nd
DerwentDiluted 27 Sep, 2009 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
with Nicola Pettit
Helen Gibson 24 Sep, 2009 2nd
with Paul
with Paul
Hidden 13 Sep, 2009 2nd dnf
cem 13 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with Jenny Andexer, Mark O'Neill, Ant Man Bee
with Jenny Andexer, Mark O'Neill, Ant Man Bee
Paul ablitt 1 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Hidden 22 Jun, 2009 Lead
Hidden 24 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 26 Apr, 2008 Lead Dry spring day but damp moss in crack at start - HVS 5b
with Phil A
Dry spring day but damp moss in crack at start - HVS 5b
with Phil A
daveagriff ??, 2008 Lead
The old James turnbull ??, 2008 -
clintos 19 Apr, 2007 Lead
with jonny green
with jonny green
Mike_Hayes ??, 2007 Lead O/S
Sankey 8 Oct, 2006 2nd O/S A must do, superb jams and moves above the slippery start
with Reuben
A must do, superb jams and moves above the slippery start
with Reuben
Sam and will 18 May, 2005 Lead O/S billiant jamming crack
with Anthony Bennett
billiant jamming crack
with Anthony Bennett
nickdonohue 11 May, 2003 Lead abbed off afterwards
with Kath Donohue
abbed off afterwards
with Kath Donohue
Chalky Cat ??, 2003 2nd O/S
Peakology ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Dave Bond 12 Jul, 2001 Lead O/S
with Adrian Whitehall
with Adrian Whitehall
fellgazelle ??, 2000 2nd
with Dave Fooks
with Dave Fooks
Rog Wilko ?Jun, 1999 Lead A great, great route!! Did this in the morning, followed by Original Route (High Tor) in the afternoon. A superb day!
with Adrian Perkin
A great, great route!! Did this in the morning, followed by Original Route (High Tor) in the afternoon. A superb day!
with Adrian Perkin
goshawk 31 Aug, 1998 Lead
with Martin Wilson
with Martin Wilson
Roget 7 Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Budge 17 Apr, 1997 Lead rpt
with Mike Oates
with Mike Oates
nickcanute ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Budge ?Aug, 1996 Lead dog
with Brian Ottewell
with Brian Ottewell
steveb2006 28 Aug, 1994 Lead The first Great Crack of the day and a good one. John Hobday also seconds
with Corine Eade
The first Great Crack of the day and a good one. John Hobday also seconds
with Corine Eade
Hidden 30 Jul, 1994 2nd O/S
JJL 15 May, 1993 Lead O/S Morning of my wedding
Morning of my wedding
charlesmfrench 5 Sep, 1991 2nd O/S
RichardMc 4 Aug, 1990 Lead O/S
with Tony Williams
with Tony Williams
tapley 13 Jun, 1989 Lead
with Tony Raphael
with Tony Raphael
steve prior ?May, 1988 Lead
with Dave T
with Dave T
Hidden ?Aug, 1987 Lead O/S
ajtay ??, 1987 -
Neil McA 12 Jun, 1986 Solo O/S Quite exciting.
Quite exciting.
sadams 4 May, 1986 2nd
with Mark Bonham
with Mark Bonham
Hidden 7 Sep, 1985 Lead
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead O/S
mark-abz ?Jul, 1982 2nd
Brian Wilderspin ?Jul, 1982 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ?Apr, 1979 Lead
Hidden 2 Feb, 1976 Lead
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 35
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set