17m.

Rockfax Description
Desperate fingery climbing on thin edges. Eases off above, just! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Next route to the right of get flossed, Hard!

A Sharp, P Lewis 15/Jul/1989

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
tommccluskey 9 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Close on first try - lowered off then did next go.
with Jake West, Katka, rafaelfordgonzalez, Lucia
Close on first try - lowered off then did next go.
with Jake West, Katka, rafaelfordgonzalez, Lucia
John_Beesley 3 Jun, 2016 Lead dnf Jesus. Super hard start on skin-ripping credit card edges. Would like to see it done but not one for me!
with mop449
Jesus. Super hard start on skin-ripping credit card edges. Would like to see it done but not one for me!
with mop449
joe1joe1joe2 30 May, 2016 Lead dog Crazy sharp crimps, you only have a few attempts before your skin is gone. Probably v5 / v6 boulder followed by sustained 6c route.
Crazy sharp crimps, you only have a few attempts before your skin is gone. Probably v5 / v6 boulder followed by sustained 6c route.
GeneralFifi 30 May, 2016 Lead dnf Tried the start boulder, didn't manage to get it but it looks like a fun one to come back to
with mop449
Tried the start boulder, didn't manage to get it but it looks like a fun one to come back to
with mop449
Ricky Rocks 14 Mar, 2014 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 7 Feb, 2013 Lead RP Finger shredding
with rob
Finger shredding
with rob
DafSWMC 2 Apr, 2011 Lead RP Can't take full tick for now as wasn't tempted by rotten rock of second half, but felt about V6 but those micro-holds feel bigger the smaller your fingers are!
with gejones
Can't take full tick for now as wasn't tempted by rotten rock of second half, but felt about V6 but those micro-holds feel bigger the smaller your fingers are!
with gejones
RD 7 Sep, 2010 TR dog Top roped the bottom and then lead through to 2/3rds height. It was getting a bit dark! Holds very sharp - really only one move. Difficult to grade - crux is hard for a 7b. So probably 7b+ ish.
Top roped the bottom and then lead through to 2/3rds height. It was getting a bit dark! Holds very sharp - really only one move. Difficult to grade - crux is hard for a 7b. So probably 7b+ ish.
tombeasley 29 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
with Chris Cleave
with Chris Cleave
gejones 22 Jun, 2010 Lead RP Gap grades! For me this route can be summarised as a short sharp V6 followed by a straightforward Fr6b+/6c - I agree with Simon, hard Fr7b seems about right - but it's always hard to find a consensus of grade when there's one short section that's massively harder than anything else on a route. I find the crux moves of Mad harder than anything on Loctite, but in isolation not that much harder; on the whole though, Mad is an entirely different proposition and at least a full grade harder.
with DafSWMC, Sean
Gap grades! For me this route can be summarised as a short sharp V6 followed by a straightforward Fr6b+/6c - I agree with Simon, hard Fr7b seems about right - but it's always hard to find a consensus of grade when there's one short section that's massively harder than anything else on a route. I find the crux moves of Mad harder than anything on Loctite, but in isolation not that much harder; on the whole though, Mad is an entirely different proposition and at least a full grade harder.
with DafSWMC, Sean
simonr 5 Jun, 2010 Lead So close to onsighting this - fell off at the belay! Way easier than Mad At The Sun though - it's my type of route, but it can't be more than hard 7b, maybe soft 7b+
So close to onsighting this - fell off at the belay! Way easier than Mad At The Sun though - it's my type of route, but it can't be more than hard 7b, maybe soft 7b+
MorganPreece 9 May, 2010 Lead dnf Ok, i didunt do it, buuuuutttt how is this giveun 7b? the moves on the micro edges are harder than the crux on mad at the sun and thats geting on 7c+ maybe 8a! if kevs right and its V7 that makes it a Fr7c. when the hole in my finger heels i will be back!
with Monty
Ok, i didunt do it, buuuuutttt how is this giveun 7b? the moves on the micro edges are harder than the crux on mad at the sun and thats geting on 7c+ maybe 8a! if kevs right and its V7 that makes it a Fr7c. when the hole in my finger heels i will be back!
with Monty
Billg ??, 2010 Lead RP About V5/6 into 6b+ (7b seems fair as its so uneven)
About V5/6 into 6b+ (7b seems fair as its so uneven)
Hidden 2 Jun, 2009 Lead RP
Hidden 25 Sep, 2008 Lead RP
Mark Walter 19 Feb, 2008 TR dog
goi.ashmore 27 Apr, 1994 Lead RP Fell off once at 5', then straight up. Monster fall from clipping belay, since Roy Thomas (40ft away, very cheesy grin), had just bolted up an extra 7' when re-equipping it, but not cleaned it (or told me). The rope was in poor shape, and stripped, so I went about 30'. Exciting!
with Dee Herbert
Fell off once at 5', then straight up. Monster fall from clipping belay, since Roy Thomas (40ft away, very cheesy grin), had just bolted up an extra 7' when re-equipping it, but not cleaned it (or told me). The rope was in poor shape, and stripped, so I went about 30'. Exciting!
with Dee Herbert
shoulders ??, 1994 Lead
with dai
with dai
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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set