Rockfax Description
Desperate fingery climbing on thin edges. Eases off above, just! © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Next route to the right of get flossed, Hard!

A Sharp, P Lewis 15/Jul/1989

John_Beesley 03/Jun/16 Lead dnf

Jesus. Super hard start on skin-ripping credit card edges. Would like to see it done but not one for me!

with Danny Gottschalk
joe1joe1joe2 30/May/16 Lead dog

Crazy sharp crimps, you only have a few attempts before your skin is gone. Probably v5 / v6 boulder followed by sustained 6c route.

GeneralFifi 30/May/16 Lead dnf

Tried the start boulder, didn't manage to get it but it looks like a fun one to come back to

Ricky Rocks 14/Mar/14 Lead dog
guy xavier percival 07/Feb/13 Lead RP

Finger shredding

with rob
DafSWMC 02/Apr/11 Lead RP

Can't take full tick for now as wasn't tempted by rotten rock of second half, but felt about V6 but those micro-holds feel bigger the smaller your fingers are!

with Gareth
RD 07/Sep/10 TR dog

Top roped the bottom and then lead through to 2/3rds height. It was getting a bit dark! Holds very sharp - really only one move. Difficult to grade - crux is hard for a 7b. So probably 7b+ ish.

tombeasley 29/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Chris Cleave
gejones 22/Jun/10 Lead RP

Gap grades! For me this route can be summarised as a short sharp V6 followed by a straightforward Fr6b+/6c - I agree with Simon, hard Fr7b seems about right - but it's always hard to find a consensus of grade when there's one short section that's massively harder than anything else on a route. I find the crux moves of Mad harder than anything on Loctite, but in isolation not that much harder; on the whole though, Mad is an entirely different proposition and at least a full grade harder.

with DafSWMC, Sean
simonr 05/Jun/10 Lead

So close to onsighting this - fell off at the belay! Way easier than Mad At The Sun though - it's my type of route, but it can't be more than hard 7b, maybe soft 7b+

MorganPreece 09/May/10 Lead dnf

Ok, i didunt do it, buuuuutttt how is this giveun 7b? the moves on the micro edges are harder than the crux on mad at the sun and thats geting on 7c+ maybe 8a! if kevs right and its V7 that makes it a Fr7c. when the hole in my finger heels i will be back!

with Monty
Billg ??/2010 Lead RP

About V5/6 into 6b+ (7b seems fair as its so uneven)

Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Sep/08 Lead RP
Mark Walter 19/Feb/08 TR dog
goi.ashmore 27/Apr/94 Lead RP

Fell off once at 5', then straight up. Monster fall from clipping belay, since Roy Thomas (40ft away, very cheesy grin), had just bolted up an extra 7' when re-equipping it, but not cleaned it (or told me). The rope was in poor shape, and stripped, so I went about 30'. Exciting!

with Dee Herbert
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High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Not Set