Climbs 127
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NE

South Wales Sandstone yet again © Mark Salter

Crag features

Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber.

Vitually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).

If anyone has any issues with any of the fixed gear please let me know so it can be identified and sorted.

Approach notes

Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.

Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
A ‘microwave oven’ sized block, at approx ¾ height, between routes ‘Shackles Of Love’ and ‘The Frightening Looking Flake’ came off whilst someone was climbing on it on Sunday 3rd July 2016. Please carefully check any loose looking rock in this area, as the rest of the overhang has a sizeable crack above it. Please see route page for photos...
jumpingjimminy - 07/Jul/16
Bone dry as of Sunday 25th March
Dan_Carroll - 25/Mar/12
Would say this is more of a summer venue. On a dry day in early March, 80% is still wet as many of the walls never see any sun. On upper quarry, some of the routes have no lower off, so beware.
J1_TOV - 03/Mar/12
Bring a clip stick . Many of the the first bolts are very high - presumably to deter vandals. Otherwise a great day or 6 out
chris wyatt - 27/Jun/11
The area marked 'Right Wall' on this page is wrong, it should read 'Left Wall'. The right wall climbs don't appear here at all.
Stone Muppet - 13/May/11
The comments about the bolting by Dai Edwards are now out of date. Much of the crag seems to have been rebolted and several new lines added.
richardr - 15/Apr/09
Just recenetly returned from a great day at this craig, my one comment would be though to take plenty of cams and not to reply on the on situ bolts as we found out and left me with a few scraps on my arms but a worth will vist, also take in the local pubs where we got very druck after a hard days climb.
Dai Edwards - 30/Sep/03
A brilliant area surrounded by stunning scenery with lots of climbing variety, the natural area has some easier climbs than the quarry, but none are too easy. A good day out.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

 Right Wall 
47One Track MindE5 6a *3
48One Track Mind7a **128
49Greased Balls6b *62
50Rain And TearsE1 5b 5
51Full BagE2 5b 6
52Controlled Emission6c **49
53Sperm WailE5 6b *3
54Sperm Wail7a+ *2
55Scrotum Oil6c *27
56Naked TruthHVS 5a 8
57Has the Fat Lady Sung6b 1
58Pick Up The Pieces6a+ 48
 upper tier cave area 
60Retro Butt InHVS 5a 9
61Perfect Scoundrels6c *19
62Butt Out5c 36
63Per Rectum5b *41
64Stool Sample5c 27
65As It Is5c 68
66Turd Strangler6c 8
67Dai Horrea6b 19
68TraverseE3 6a 3
 Natural outcrop area 
70Chapeau VertVS 4c 5
71BlockbusterHVS 5a 10
72Always A MolehillHVS 5b 7
73Once a MolehillHVS 5a 7
74Personal StashE3 6a *3
75LudditesE3 5c *16
76Livin On a PrayerE6 6c **8
77Trouble at MillE3 6a *10
78Then There Is A MountainE3 6a 3
79Juggery PokeryE1 6a 3
80Thompson Bank WatchE1 6a 1
81Old DogVS 4c 30
82New TricksE1 5b 9
83Tall StoryE2 5b 4
84In Over My HeadE3 6b *5
85Mister NaturalE2 5c 7
86Surprise, SurpriseE1 5c 10
87Audio PornographyE3 5c 10
 Upper Quarry 
89Gladwyn TidingsHS 4a 46
90Newton's Apple5c *83
91Dirty GertyVS 4c *60
92Acceleration Due To GravityHVS 4c 29
93It's A Sine6a+ *57
94TangentE2 5c 4
95Scared Seal Banter7a+ **21
96The Mastic Mick6c *51
97Cled's CrackHVS 5a 21
98The Grout Of San Romano6c **83
99The Grout Of San Romano - right hand6c+ **5
100Brush UpHVS 5a 41
101Step UpE1 5a 65
102The Godfather6a+ *54
103Up Yours6a **80
104SmoothieHVS 5c 14
105Windy EdgeE1 5b *48
106Mortar Life6a 35
107Shorta Life5a 10
108O Solo MioHVS 5b 40
109Chips With EverythingE1 5c 9
 BOULDERING SECTION 
111Red Queen ArteV1 4
112Unnamed IIV1 3
113Unnamed IV1 3
114Square Boulder-Left AreteV1 7
115Square Boulder- Front FaceV3 8
116Square Boulder-Right Arete
-
V1 7
117Square Boulder- Right Hand FaceV2 7
118Slippery slopeV2 **2
119Slippery Slope Right HandV2 2
120Slippery slope lefthandV0 2
121Blurred Linef7A+ **1
122Lank AreteV0 5
123Moving Linef7B+ **1
124Porroh manV4 **4
125Jump StartV1 4
126Off DeckV1 *3
127Rail rideV2 **3
128RunawayV4 **2
129ToobedV3 3
130Wave goodbyeV3 2
131UnderliningV3 **2
132OverliningV3 **2
133The Frackardf7B **4
134UndergraduateV1 1
 New routes 

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