Climbs 127
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NE

South Wales Sandstone yet again © Mark Salter

Crag features

Part-natural, part-quarried, probably the best sandstone crag in South Wales. Routes up to 21m, though not much for the sub 6a climber.

Vitually all the old fixed gear has now been replaced with either 10mm expansion bolts or resin staples and all sport routes in the lower quarry have lower offs, some sport routes in the upper quarry still require topping out (slings required).

If anyone has any issues with any of the fixed gear please let me know so it can be identified and sorted.

Approach notes

Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit(Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st L at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow L over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately R along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the L. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.

Very occasionaly kestrels nest in the lower quarry, if this is the case please give them a wide berth

Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Very nice crag, the routes seem hard for the grade but it maybe down to the bolts being so far apart that it feels a bit scary. Must return for the epic 6b line up the centre crack.
springfall2008 - 21/Apr/17
A ‘microwave oven’ sized block, at approx ¾ height, between routes ‘Shackles Of Love’ and ‘The Frightening Looking Flake’ came off whilst someone was climbing on it on Sunday 3rd July 2016. Please carefully check any loose looking rock in this area, as the rest of the overhang has a sizeable crack above it. Please see route page for photos...
jumpingjimminy - 07/Jul/16
Bone dry as of Sunday 25th March
Dan_Carroll - 25/Mar/12
Would say this is more of a summer venue. On a dry day in early March, 80% is still wet as many of the walls never see any sun. On upper quarry, some of the routes have no lower off, so beware.
J1_TOV - 03/Mar/12
Bring a clip stick . Many of the the first bolts are very high - presumably to deter vandals. Otherwise a great day or 6 out
chris wyatt - 27/Jun/11
The area marked 'Right Wall' on this page is wrong, it should read 'Left Wall'. The right wall climbs don't appear here at all.
Stone Muppet - 13/May/11
The comments about the bolting by Dai Edwards are now out of date. Much of the crag seems to have been rebolted and several new lines added.
richardr - 15/Apr/09
Just recenetly returned from a great day at this craig, my one comment would be though to take plenty of cams and not to reply on the on situ bolts as we found out and left me with a few scraps on my arms but a worth will vist, also take in the local pubs where we got very druck after a hard days climb.
Dai Edwards - 30/Sep/03
A brilliant area surrounded by stunning scenery with lots of climbing variety, the natural area has some easier climbs than the quarry, but none are too easy. A good day out.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wall
2 As It Was VS 55
3 Kabuto Mushi 6a+ * 116
4 Yikes 6b+ * 50
5 So Uncool 6c * 81
6 Just Hanging Around E1 * 22
7 Bluster 6b ** 225
8 Fluster 6a+ ** 251
9 Marlin On The Wall 6a+ ** 161
10 Don't Blame Me 6b * 50
11 Sumo No Shiro 6b+ * 32
  Main Wall
13 Canine League 6a+ * 14
14 Sleeping Dogs Lie 6b+ ** 30
15 Don't Bark Yet 7a * 17
16 Smack My Bitch Up 6b+ * 8
17 Generation Bitch 6b * 17
18 Generation Gap HVS 5a 23
19 Generation Gap 5c * 134
20 Mr Farady E1 5b 14
21 Mr. Faraday 6a * 72
22 Poker In The Eye 6a+ ** 160
23 Grout Expectations 6a * 92
24 Shackles Of Love 6a+ * 78
25 The Frightening Looking Flake E2 5c 5
26 Ring Of Confidence 6b * 85
27 Get Flossed 7a+ ** 47
28 Loctite 7b+ ** 20
29 Land Of The Dinosaurs 6b ** 206
30 Land of the Dinosaurs / Loctite Finish 6c ** 25
31 A Momentary Lapse Of Reason 7b+ ** 27
32 Enter Sandman 7c+ ** 1
33 A Momentary Right Hand Treason 7b+ * 1
34 Rattle Those Tusks E3 5c * 9
35 Rattle Those Tusks 6b ** 147
36 Mad At The Sun 7c ** 21
37 Leave it to me 6c ** 60
38 Salmon Running, Bear Cunning 7b ** 1
39 Salmon Running, Bear Cunning - Right-hand Finish 7a * 145
40 John West 7b 7
41 Anything You Can Do 7b ** 12
42 I Can Do Better 7b * 7
43 Encore! Magnifique! 7b+ *** 113
44 Pleasant Valley Sunday into Encore 7b ** 2
45 Pleasant Valley Sunday 7a+ ** 60
  Right Wall
47 One Track Mind E5 6a * 3
48 One Track Mind 7a ** 152
49 Greased Balls 6b * 70
50 Rain And Tears E1 5b 5
51 Full Bag E2 5b 6
52 Controlled Emission 6c ** 52
53 Sperm Wail E5 6b * 3
54 Sperm Wail 7a+ * 2
55 Scrotum Oil 6c * 28
56 Naked Truth HVS 5a 8
57 Has the Fat Lady Sung 6b 1
58 Pick Up The Pieces 6a+ 53
  upper tier cave area
60 Retro Butt In HVS 5a 9
61 Perfect Scoundrels 6c * 23
62 Butt Out 5c 39
63 Per Rectum 5b * 53
64 Stool Sample 5c 38
65 As It Is 5c 78
66 Turd Strangler 6c 8
67 Dai Horrea 6b 20
68 Traverse E3 6a 3
  Natural outcrop area
70 Chapeau Vert VS 4c 5
71 Blockbuster HVS 5a 10
72 Always A Molehill HVS 5b 7
73 Once a Molehill HVS 5a 7
74 Personal Stash E3 6a * 3
75 Luddites E3 5c * 15
76 Livin On a Prayer E6 6c ** 8
77 Trouble at Mill E3 6a * 10
78 Then There Is A Mountain E3 6a 3
79 Juggery Pokery E1 6a 3
80 Thompson Bank Watch E1 6a 1
81 Old Dog VS 4c 30
82 New Tricks E1 5b 9
83 Tall Story E2 5b 4
84 In Over My Head E3 6b * 5
85 Mister Natural E2 5c 7
86 Surprise, Surprise E1 5c 10
87 Audio Pornography E3 5c 10
  Upper Quarry
89 Gladwyn Tidings HS 4a 46
90 Newton's Apple 5c * 83
91 Dirty Gerty VS 4c * 58
92 Acceleration Due To Gravity HVS 4c 29
93 It's A Sine 6a+ * 59
94 Tangent E2 5c 4
95 Scared Seal Banter 7a+ ** 19
96 The Mastic Mick 6c * 48
97 Cled's Crack HVS 5a 21
98 The Grout Of San Romano 6c ** 87
99 The Grout Of San Romano - right hand 6c+ ** 5
100 Brush Up HVS 5a 41
101 Step Up E1 5a 62
102 The Godfather 6a+ * 57
103 Up Yours 6a ** 80
104 Smoothie HVS 5c 14
105 Windy Edge E1 5b * 47
106 Mortar Life 6a 35
107 Shorta Life 5a 10
108 O Solo Mio HVS 5b 40
109 Chips With Everything E1 5c 9
  BOULDERING SECTION
111 Red Queen Arête V1 5 4
112 Unnamed II V1 4 3
113 Unnamed I V1 4 3
114 Square Boulder-Left Arete V1 7
115 Square Boulder- Front Face V3 8
116 Square Boulder-Right Arete
-
V1 7
117 Square Boulder- Right Hand Face V2 7
118 Slippery slope V2 ** 2
119 Slippery Slope Right Hand V2 2
120 Slippery slope lefthand V0 2
121 Blurred Line f7A+ ** 1
122 Lank Arete V0 5
123 Moving Line f7B+ ** 1
124 Porroh man V4 ** 4
125 Jump Start V1 4
126 Off Deck V1 * 3
127 Rail ride V2 ** 3
128 Runaway V4 ** 2
129 Toobed V3 3
130 Wave goodbye V3 2
131 Underlining V3 ** 2
132 Overlining V3 ** 2
133 The Frackard f7B ** 4
134 Undergraduate V1 1
  New routes

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