Climbs 128
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 100m a.s.l
Faces NE

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South Wales Sandstone yet again © Mark Salter

Crag features

The Gap is one of the original and best known of the sandstone climbing areas in South Wales, although nowadays others have overtaken it in popularity. Sitting high on a hill overlooking the A470 Cardiff to Merthyr Tydfil road, it has a nice open aspect and plenty of routes at all grades that are well equipped. The majority of the routes are wall climbs, with the hardest featuring sustained sequences on thin edges. There are plenty of routes in the lower 6s including a few smart crack-lines.

If anyone has any issues with any of the fixed gear please let me know so it can be identified and sorted.

Approach notes

Visible from the A470, but hard to find. Take the 3rd exit (Ystrad Mynach) on the Abercynon-Mountain Ash roundabout, then 1st left at the next roundabout towards Quakers Yard. Just before the first set of traffic lights(pedestrian crossing) take a narrow left over the river Taff, follow the road up a hill until you pass back over the A470: turn immeadiately right along a single-track road. Lower Quarry is soon visible on the left. There is ample parking directly below the lower quarry although it is beggining to get pretty rough due to 4x4 and motocross use.
 

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Guidebooks

South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
More info
Tried climbing here early April 19, late afternoon it was dry but very cold. Kept sliding off footholds. Will hopefully get to climb this in a little hotter weather.
Deeman00 - 24/Apr/19
Very nice crag, the routes seem hard for the grade but it maybe down to the bolts being so far apart that it feels a bit scary. Must return for the epic 6b line up the centre crack.
springfall2008 - 21/Apr/17
A ‘microwave oven’ sized block, at approx ¾ height, between routes ‘Shackles Of Love’ and ‘The Frightening Looking Flake’ came off whilst someone was climbing on it on Sunday 3rd July 2016. Please carefully check any loose looking rock in this area, as the rest of the overhang has a sizeable crack above it. Please see route page for photos...
jumpingjimminy - 07/Jul/16
Bone dry as of Sunday 25th March
Dan_Carroll - 25/Mar/12
Would say this is more of a summer venue. On a dry day in early March, 80% is still wet as many of the walls never see any sun. On upper quarry, some of the routes have no lower off, so beware.
J1_TOV - 03/Mar/12
Bring a clip stick . Many of the the first bolts are very high - presumably to deter vandals. Otherwise a great day or 6 out
chris wyatt - 27/Jun/11
The area marked 'Right Wall' on this page is wrong, it should read 'Left Wall'. The right wall climbs don't appear here at all.
Stone Muppet - 13/May/11
The comments about the bolting by Dai Edwards are now out of date. Much of the crag seems to have been rebolted and several new lines added.
richardr - 15/Apr/09
Just recenetly returned from a great day at this craig, my one comment would be though to take plenty of cams and not to reply on the on situ bolts as we found out and left me with a few scraps on my arms but a worth will vist, also take in the local pubs where we got very druck after a hard days climb.
Dai Edwards - 30/Sep/03
A brilliant area surrounded by stunning scenery with lots of climbing variety, the natural area has some easier climbs than the quarry, but none are too easy. A good day out.
Jonathan Butters - 30/Mar/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Wall
2 As It Was VS 59
3 Kabuto Mushi 6a+ * 136
4 Yikes 6b+ * 63
5 So Uncool 6c * 95
6 Just Hanging Around E1 * 30
7 Bluster 6b ** 285
8 Fluster 6a+ ** 346
9 Marlin on the Wall 6a+ ** 222
10 Don't Blame Me 6b * 71
11 Sumo no Shiro 6b+ * 39
  Main Wall
13 Canine League 6a+ * 18
14 Sleeping Dogs Lie 6b+ ** 27
15 Don't Bark Yet 7a * 19
16 Smack My Bitch Up 6b+ * 11
17 Generation Bitch 6b * 21
18 Generation Gap 5c * 214
19 Mister Faraday 6a * 106
20 Poker in the Eye 6a+ ** 203
21 Grout Expectations 6a * 104
22 Shackles of Love 6a+ * 111
23 The Frightening Looking Flake E2 5c 5
24 Ring of Confidence 6b * 110
25 Get Flossed 7a+ ** 64
26 Loctite 7b+ ** 17
27 Land of the Dinosaurs 6b ** 279
28 Land of the Dinosaurs / Loctite Finish 6c ** 27
29 A Momentary Lapse of Reason 7b+ ** 34
30 Enter Sandman 7c+ ** 4
31 A Momentary Right Hand Treason 7b+ * 2
32 Rattle Those Tusks 6b ** 209
33 Mad at the Sun 7c ** 14
34 Leave it to Me 6c ** 94
35 Salmon Running, Bear Cunning 7b ** 4
36 Salmon Running, Bear Cunning Right-Hand Finish
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7a * 154
37 John West 7b 8
38 Anything You Can Do 7b ** 15
39 I Can Do Better 7b * 12
40 Encore! Magnifique! 7b+ *** 119
41 Pleasant Valley Sunday into Encore 7b ** 4
42 Pleasant Valley Sunday 7a+ ** 80
  Right Wall
44 One Track Mind 7a ** 198
45 Greased Balls 6b * 93
Climb name Grade
46 Rain and Tears E1 5b 5
47 Full Bag E2 5b 7
48 Controlled Emission 6c ** 64
49 Sperm Wail 7a+ * 7
50 Scrotum Oil 6c * 35
51 Naked Truth HVS 5a 8
52 Has the Fat Lady Sung 6b 1
53 Pick up the Pieces 6a+ 64
54 Retro Butt In HVS 5a 9
55 Perfect Scoundrels 6c * 25
56 Butt Out 5c 47
57 Per Rectum 5b * 85
58 Stool Sample 5c 53
59 As It Is 5c 89
60 Turd Strangler 6c 9
61 Dai Horrea 6b 21
62 Final Analysis 6b 2
63 Traverse E3 6a 3
  Natural outcrop area
65 Chapeau Vert VS 4c 5
66 Blockbuster HVS 5a 11
67 Always a Molehill HVS 5b 8
68 Once a Molehill HVS 5a 8
69 Personal Stash E3 6a * 3
70 Luddites E3 5c * 15
71 Livin on a Prayer E6 6c ** 7
72 Trouble at Mill E3 6a * 10
73 Then there is a Mountain E3 6a 3
74 Juggery Pokery E1 6a 3
75 Thompson Bank Watch E1 6a 2
76 Random Arete D 2
77 Old Dog VS 4c 35
78 New Tricks E1 5b 9
79 Tall Story E2 5b 4
80 In Over My Head E3 6b * 5
81 Mister Natural E2 5c 7
82 Surprise, Surprise E1 5c 10
83 Audio Pornography E3 5c 11
84 Sound Blight E1 5a * 1
  Upper Quarry
86 Remembering JC VD 6
87 Gladwyn Tidings HS 4a 59
88 Newton's Apple 5c * 113
89 Dirty Gerty VS 4c * 63
90 Acceleration Due to Gravity HVS 4c 30
Climb name Grade
91 It's A Sine 6a+ * 68
92 Tangent E2 5c 4
93 Scared Seal Banter 7a+ ** 19
94 The Mastic Mick 6c * 59
95 Cled's Crack HVS 5a 26
96 The Grout of San Romano 6c ** 109
97 The Grout of San Romano Right-Hand 6c+ ** 6
98 Brush Up HVS 5a 44
99 Step Up E1 5a 67
100 Listen to Uncle 6b * 18
101 The Godfather 6a+ * 76
102 Up Yours 6a ** 110
103 Smoothie HVS 5c 17
104 Slackers VS 4c 4
105 Windy Edge E1 5b * 53
106 Mortar Life 6a 41
107 Shorter Life 5a 12
108 O Solo Mio HVS 5b 45
109 Chips With Everything E1 5c 11
  Bouldering
111 Red Queen Arête V1 5
112 Unnamed V1 3
113 Unnamed V1 3
114 Square Boulder - Left Arête V1 7
115 Square Boulder - Front Face V3 8
116 Square Boulder - Right Arête
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V1 7
117 Square Boulder - Right-Hand Face V2 7
118 Slippery Slope V2 ** 2
119 Slippery Slope Right-Hand V2 2
120 Slippery Slope Left-Hand V0 2
121 Blurred Line f7A+ ** 1
122 Lank Arête V0 6
123 Moving Line f7B+ ** 1
124 Porroh Man V4 ** 4
125 Jump Start V1 4
126 Off Deck V1 * 4
127 Rail Ride V2 ** 3
128 Runaway V4 ** 2
129 Toobed V3 3
130 Wave Goodbye V3 2
131 Underlining V3 ** 2
132 Overlining V3 ** 2
133 The Frackard f7B ** 4
134 Undergraduate V1 1

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