18m.

Rockfax Description
A gem of a pitch that features some intricate face moves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start direct and avoid going left on to the good holds. Widely thought to be a bit of a sandbag at 6b, but really nice.
As of 22/06/11 the route has suffered a major rockfall the cruxy start has completely fallen off leaving what appears to be a even harder start

P Donnithorne, E Alsford 1993

Ticklists

Rockfax South Wales Sandstone Graded List, CoT Sandstone Mileage

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Radami 25 Sep TR dog
with Daniel (Castle)
with Daniel (Castle)
myrddinmuse 7 Sep Lead dnf Inexplicable. Couldn't figure out a way past the second bolt no matter how hard I tried, so I clipsticked my way through and continued to the end. Second half has some worthy sections! Sandbag!
with Joe Dinn
Inexplicable. Couldn't figure out a way past the second bolt no matter how hard I tried, so I clipsticked my way through and continued to the end. Second half has some worthy sections! Sandbag!
with Joe Dinn
Hidden 7 Jul Lead β
eddieclimb 12 May Lead RP
with Jason Parker
with Jason Parker
pmcd93 5 May Lead dnf ?
with siofras
?
with siofras
sideshow84 5 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf Wish id checked ukc first. Seems unclimbable from bolt 2...
Wish id checked ukc first. Seems unclimbable from bolt 2...
Ian Bell 27 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf Nails, couldn’t figure out how to get past second bolt
Nails, couldn’t figure out how to get past second bolt
Andy Luckwell 15 Jul, 2018 TR dnf
strudles 11 Jul, 2018 Lead dnf even with a top rope I couldn't do the lower section, top section felt 6c, bottom about 7a+/b if the slopers weren't so greasy. found mad at the sun easier.
with alexjz
even with a top rope I couldn't do the lower section, top section felt 6c, bottom about 7a+/b if the slopers weren't so greasy. found mad at the sun easier.
with alexjz
jsmcfarland ?Jul, 2018 Lead dog Seems unreasonably hard for 6c, especially between 1st-3rd bolt. Has there been some hold breakage or what?
Seems unreasonably hard for 6c, especially between 1st-3rd bolt. Has there been some hold breakage or what?
pguilloux 30 Jun, 2018 Lead dnf Felt impossible!
with Dugster
Felt impossible!
with Dugster
Jimbob64 29 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf
with Strife
with Strife
ericinbristol 6 May, 2017 Lead dnf Unclear what the start is for this route.
with vertigo
Unclear what the start is for this route.
with vertigo
Hidden 29 Apr, 2017 Lead dog
mop449 12 Apr, 2017 Lead dog The start direct feels impossible... Even on TR. The rest of it gives nice moves though. This is miles harder than one track mind. Not good for a warm up.
The start direct feels impossible... Even on TR. The rest of it gives nice moves though. This is miles harder than one track mind. Not good for a warm up.
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 -
Hidden ?Apr, 2015 Lead
Tomas P 19 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S
Robheirene 19 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Not a good warm-up on a freezing cold day in March - top section hard at the grade
with Tomas P
Not a good warm-up on a freezing cold day in March - top section hard at the grade
with Tomas P
Carl Watkins 31 Aug, 2014 Lead dog
Julesthe1st 30 Mar, 2014 Lead dog Climbed the start of Sperm Wale then traversed in. Lovely climbing on the head wall. Shame the crimps were damp.
with Sabrina, Andrea, Kalju, Tania
Climbed the start of Sperm Wale then traversed in. Lovely climbing on the head wall. Shame the crimps were damp.
with Sabrina, Andrea, Kalju, Tania
Paul Robertson 19 Jun, 2012 Lead dnf Needs a new start
Needs a new start
Hidden 17 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
Hidden 14 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
James Marshall 27 Jul, 2011 Lead dog Not a great warm-up, the start doesn't look doable at anywhere near this grade.
Not a great warm-up, the start doesn't look doable at anywhere near this grade.
Caspian Johnson 2 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S disregarding the grade, enjoyable varied climbing
disregarding the grade, enjoyable varied climbing
Dan_Carroll 2 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S 6c.
with caspian
6c.
with caspian
gingernick ??, 2011 Lead O/S
with Dean,Daryl, Chris Guest
with Dean,Daryl, Chris Guest
just one more 20 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with tony l
with tony l
wilchivs 8 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf This is the hardest 6b in the world. Sand. Bag.
This is the hardest 6b in the world. Sand. Bag.
Hidden 8 Aug, 2010 Lead dnf
RD ?Aug, 2010 Lead
nutcracker 10 Jul, 2010 Lead dog Hard, bit of a sandbag
with tomos
Hard, bit of a sandbag
with tomos
mikeshewring 10 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
d_meacher 27 May, 2010 TR dog
with Iskander
with Iskander
Sam W 21 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Ian Lucas
with Ian Lucas
gknyus 10 Apr, 2010 Lead dog Great varied climb (top half sustained), shame i spent most of my time teaching my bro how to lead belay - he did a pretty good job for his first day climbing.
with Adam Erusalimsky
Great varied climb (top half sustained), shame i spent most of my time teaching my bro how to lead belay - he did a pretty good job for his first day climbing.
with Adam Erusalimsky
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Tim W 23 Jul, 2009 Lead rpt
with dave657
with dave657
al99 28 Jun, 2009 Lead dog
martinazando 28 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with al99
with al99
Hidden 4 Jun, 2009 Lead dog
davesimpson ?Sep, 2008 Lead dog difficult bouldery start, third form last clip was well out of reache, great route but difficult top section pulling on tiny invisible crimps
with Ian Tsang
difficult bouldery start, third form last clip was well out of reache, great route but difficult top section pulling on tiny invisible crimps
with Ian Tsang
Paul Bowen 24 Jun, 2008 Lead rpt
with bec
with bec
Hidden 12 Jun, 2008 Lead β
gejones 11 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Sean
with Sean
Mark Walter 3 Jun, 2008 Lead dog fell off again, keep loosing the holds
with Tim Wilkinson
fell off again, keep loosing the holds
with Tim Wilkinson
Mark Walter 27 May, 2008 Lead dog very hard for the grade, committing second bolt and the top holds are hard to spot
with Alex Pickard
very hard for the grade, committing second bolt and the top holds are hard to spot
with Alex Pickard
hash 11 May, 2008 2nd dog hard
with DafSWMC
hard
with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 11 May, 2008 Lead dog
with Steve/Hash
with Steve/Hash
onlytovey 9 Sep, 2007 Lead RP
with Mike Peddle
with Mike Peddle
pete johnson 9 Aug, 2007 -
with emma alsford, Paul Donnithorne, Lun
with emma alsford, Paul Donnithorne, Lun
Dan 85 7 Jul, 2007 Lead dog
with Lloydfletch, Lucas
with Lloydfletch, Lucas
Billg ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
onlytovey ??, 2007 Lead RP
Bux 14 Jul, 2006 Lead dog
with Charles Romijn
with Charles Romijn
Hidden 4 Jul, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden 14 Jun, 2006 Lead RP
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2003 Lead RP
Wil Treasure ??, 2003 Lead
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead
Hidden 11 May, 2002 Lead RP
Billg ?May, 2000 Lead O/S
shoulders ?Jul, 1993 -
goi.ashmore 13 May, 1993 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
with Simon Coles
8 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set