Rockfax Description
A gem of a pitch that features some intricate face moves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start direct and avoid going left on to the good holds. Widely thought to be a bit of a sandbag at 6b, but really nice.
As of 22/06/11 the route has suffered a major rockfall the cruxy start has completely fallen off leaving what appears to be a even harder start

P Donnithorne, E Alsford 1993

Jimbob64 29/Oct/17 Lead dnf
with Simon
ericinbristol 06/May/17 Lead dnf

Unclear what the start is for this route.

Hidden 29/Apr/17 Lead dog
mop449 12/Apr/17 Lead dog

The start direct feels impossible... Even on TR. The rest of it gives nice moves though. This is miles harder than one track mind. Not good for a warm up.

Paula Ryan ?/Apr/15 -
with Robin Brooke
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead
Tomas P 19/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Robheirene 19/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Not a good warm-up on a freezing cold day in March - top section hard at the grade

Carl Watkins 31/Aug/14 Lead dog
Julesthe1st 30/Mar/14 Lead dog

Climbed the start of Sperm Wale then traversed in. Lovely climbing on the head wall. Shame the crimps were damp.

with Sabrina, Andrea, Kalju, Tania
Paul Robertson 19/Jun/12 Lead dnf

Needs a new start

Hidden 17/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 14/Aug/11 Lead dnf
James Marshall 27/Jul/11 Lead dog

Not a great warm-up, the start doesn't look doable at anywhere near this grade.

Caspian Johnson 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S

disregarding the grade, enjoyable varied climbing

Dan_Carroll 02/Jun/11 Lead O/S


with caspian
gingernick ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Dean,Daryl, Chris Guest
just one more 20/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with tony l
wilchivs 08/Aug/10 Lead dnf

This is the hardest 6b in the world. Sand. Bag.

Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead dnf
RD ?/Aug/10 Lead
nutcracker 10/Jul/10 Lead dog

Hard, bit of a sandbag

with tomos
mikeshewring 10/Jun/10 Lead RP
d_meacher 27/May/10 TR dog
with Iskander
Sam W 21/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ian Lucas
gknyus 10/Apr/10 Lead dog

Great varied climb (top half sustained), shame i spent most of my time teaching my bro how to lead belay - he did a pretty good job for his first day climbing.

with Adam Erusalimsky
Hidden ??/2010 -
Tim W 23/Jul/09 Lead rpt
al99 28/Jun/09 Lead dog
martinazando 28/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/09 Lead dog
davesimpson ?/Sep/08 Lead dog

difficult bouldery start, third form last clip was well out of reache, great route but difficult top section pulling on tiny invisible crimps

with Ian Tsang
Paul Bowen 24/Jun/08 Lead rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/08 Lead β
gejones 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sean
Mark Walter 03/Jun/08 Lead dog

fell off again, keep loosing the holds

with Tim Wilkinson
Mark Walter 27/May/08 Lead dog

very hard for the grade, committing second bolt and the top holds are hard to spot

with Alex Pickard
hash 11/May/08 2nd dog


with DafSWMC
DafSWMC 11/May/08 Lead dog
with Steve/Hash
onlytovey 09/Sep/07 Lead RP
with Mike Peddle
pete johnson 09/Aug/07 -
with emma alsford, Paul Donnithorne, Lun
Dan 85 07/Jul/07 Lead dog
with Heddwyn, Lucas
Billg ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
onlytovey ??/2007 Lead RP
Bux 14/Jul/06 Lead dog
with Charles Romijn
Hidden 04/Jul/06 Lead RP
Hidden 14/Jun/06 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden 08/Apr/03 Lead RP
Wil Treasure ??/2003 Lead
Hidden 11/May/02 Lead RP
Billg ?/May/00 Lead O/S
shoulders ?/Jul/93 -
goi.ashmore 13/May/93 Lead O/S
with Simon Coles
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Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set