UKC

Rockfax Description
This is an excellent via ferrata and one of the classics of the Cortina area. It offers good engaging climbing at a consistent grade interspersed by several strenuous walking sections along the scrubby terraces that split the face of Punta Fiames. A long airy ladder at three-quarter height provides the high point of the route and the summit offers superb views of Cortina and the surrounding area.
Approach - From Cortina, take the SS51 north in the direction of Dobbiaco. After 5km you will reach the village of Fiames. Park near the large Hotel Fiames found on the left, halfway through the village. Opposite the hotel, a track leads uphill into the woods. Soon this reaches a larger gravel track. Turn right onto the track and follow it for 100m until a smaller path leads off left again. This track should be signed towards the via ferrata. Continue following it steeply uphill crossing straight over another larger track that used to be the old railway line. The path eventually breaks out of the trees into scrubland. This in turn leads to a large scree fan which you follow to the base of the rock face and a memorial plaque. Here you make a sharp right following a large rising ledge in the direction of Cortina. After 10 minutes you will reach the end of the ledge and the start of the route which turns abruptly left up a shallow chimney, gear up here.
VF - Climb the chimney until you reach a ledge which you follow to the left. Climb vertically again before reaching another ledge which you follow leftwards. Another stint of vertical climbing brings you to a large scrubby terrace. Follow the path up right through the scrubs as it contours under the face until you come to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking Cortina. The route now switches back hard left again up a short but steeper section of wall with a number of stemples for assistance.
At the top of this the path contours around a large gully with some huge jammed blocks to the base of the aforementioned ladder. Climb this (good exposure) to reach an enjoyable vertical section above. This brings you to yet another large terrace. Follow the path to the right again until you're at the final section of wire under the blunt arete. Easy climbing up this, passing another plaque on the way, leads to the end of the difficulties. Follow the path rightwards up to the summit of Punta Fiames (2240m) and a stunning view. The isolated summit of Col Rosa can be seen clearly to the northwest, home of the neighbouring via ferrata, Ettore Bovero.
Descent - Follow a well marked path that heads east starting high and contouring just under the various peaks of the group. After 10 minutes or so you traverse across an exposed section protected by a newly placed wire. Continue following the path contouring until you get to the saddle of Forcella del Pomagagnon situated at the top of a huge scree gully. Descend carefully down the gully being mindful of parties above and below you. After descending for several minutes the scree gets deeper and the going gets easier. The vague path down the gully is sporadically marked with paint and cairns. At the bottom look out for a small path branching off to the right, which contours back under the faces heading northwest. This eventually leads back to the old railway track. Follow this north before descending back into Fiames just past the football pitch and athletics track (there are numerous possible paths).
Alternatively, at the bottom of the main scree gully, it is possible to continue heading directly down the remaining scree following a dry stream bed on a vague path. This will again eventually deposit you onto the old railway track which you follow north back to Fiames © Rockfax

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High VF3C
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Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest
Piz da Lech (VF)

Grade: VF3B ***
(Vallon)

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