UKC

Rockfax Description
This is an excellent via ferrata and one of the classics of the Cortina area. It offers good engaging climbing at a consistent grade interspersed by several strenuous walking sections along the scrubby terraces that split the face of Punta Fiames. A long airy ladder at three-quarter height provides the high point of the route and the summit offers superb views of Cortina and the surrounding area.
Approach - From Cortina, take the SS51 north in the direction of Dobbiaco. After 5km you will reach the village of Fiames. Park near the large Hotel Fiames found on the left, halfway through the village. Opposite the hotel, a track leads uphill into the woods. Soon this reaches a larger gravel track. Turn right onto the track and follow it for 100m until a smaller path leads off left again. This track should be signed towards the via ferrata. Continue following it steeply uphill crossing straight over another larger track that used to be the old railway line. The path eventually breaks out of the trees into scrubland. This in turn leads to a large scree fan which you follow to the base of the rock face and a memorial plaque. Here you make a sharp right following a large rising ledge in the direction of Cortina. After 10 minutes you will reach the end of the ledge and the start of the route which turns abruptly left up a shallow chimney, gear up here.
VF - Climb the chimney until you reach a ledge which you follow to the left. Climb vertically again before reaching another ledge which you follow leftwards. Another stint of vertical climbing brings you to a large scrubby terrace. Follow the path up right through the scrubs as it contours under the face until you come to a beautiful viewpoint overlooking Cortina. The route now switches back hard left again up a short but steeper section of wall with a number of stemples for assistance.
At the top of this the path contours around a large gully with some huge jammed blocks to the base of the aforementioned ladder. Climb this (good exposure) to reach an enjoyable vertical section above. This brings you to yet another large terrace. Follow the path to the right again until you're at the final section of wire under the blunt arete. Easy climbing up this, passing another plaque on the way, leads to the end of the difficulties. Follow the path rightwards up to the summit of Punta Fiames (2240m) and a stunning view. The isolated summit of Col Rosa can be seen clearly to the northwest, home of the neighbouring via ferrata, Ettore Bovero.
Descent - Follow a well marked path that heads east starting high and contouring just under the various peaks of the group. After 10 minutes or so you traverse across an exposed section protected by a newly placed wire. Continue following the path contouring until you get to the saddle of Forcella del Pomagagnon situated at the top of a huge scree gully. Descend carefully down the gully being mindful of parties above and below you. After descending for several minutes the scree gets deeper and the going gets easier. The vague path down the gully is sporadically marked with paint and cairns. At the bottom look out for a small path branching off to the right, which contours back under the faces heading northwest. This eventually leads back to the old railway track. Follow this north before descending back into Fiames just past the football pitch and athletics track (there are numerous possible paths).
Alternatively, at the bottom of the main scree gully, it is possible to continue heading directly down the remaining scree following a dry stream bed on a vague path. This will again eventually deposit you onto the old railway track which you follow north back to Fiames. © Rockfax


ClimberDateStyle
betathief 15/Oct/17 -
BenedictIEP 18/Sep/17 -
Leleanor93 18/Sep/17 -

My first via feratta, walked in from Cortina, had all the fun and got engaged at the summit! Then scary scree down.

hutchay 17/Sep/17 -
miriamclaire 17/Sep/17 -
funkyvin1 15/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Climbed whole route on rock (bar the ladder and the few stemples above the ladder) which was great fun. Lots of polish and a bit of walking between sections but worth a day out, especially as you start and finish at a bar!

Karlos 11/Sep/17 -
Hidden 11/Sep/17 Solo rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/17 -
Connolly8684 08/Sep/17 -
mocoso 08/Sep/17 -

A really lovely start to a weekend of via ferrata with a good climbing to hiking ration. It just gets steeper and steeper as you go up so the views are brilliant. We set off around 1 and got back just after dark (7:15 or so).

Martin Bennett 08/Sep/17 -
Tim Rodgers 04/Sep/17 -
Hanky ?/Sep/17 -

Great day out

with Dent crew
gsavell 29/Aug/17 -
with Sarah Knight
Andy England 22/Aug/17 Solo O/S
with Claire Tipton, Ollie England
John Clinch (Ampthill) 20/Aug/17 -

We really enjoyed this. yes there is quite alot of walking but it all adds upto a nice mountain day. An early start meant we were on top by 10:20 and only met one other pair who let us straight past

Jack_Clinch 20/Aug/17 -
Hidden 18/Aug/17 -
MFB 09/Aug/17 -
with Isobel and James
LittleJoRocks 04/Aug/17 2nd
with Theeni
GoodbyeTurtles 04/Aug/17 -
with Kate
Theeni 04/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Jo
Hidden ?/Aug/17 Lead
jussiupn 27/Jul/17 -

Nice climbing. Exhausting down hill

with Harry Halonen, Paavo Kuosmanen, Junde
KiranV 02/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Too much walking, not enough ferrataing, some vertical sections had great climbing. Ferrata bits were interesting, got caught in traffic from a 25 strong group of Czechs

Ben Harper 22/Jun/17 -
marcb 22/Jun/17 -
steveg 22/Jun/17 Solo O/S

Had the route to myself in glorious weather. Well polished but easy climbing and fine exposure with spectacular scree descent.

Hidden 22/Jun/17 -
Woodiee 17/Jun/17 Solo O/S
with Ailsa Leslie, Jim Stanton
adawson 15/Jun/17 -
duncanedgley 15/Jun/17 -
JonoDHawkins 15/Jun/17 -
with Ash
Ashley King 15/Jun/17 -

Amazing route. Some awesome exposure and cool moves. Not too challenging though.

JulianD 05/Sep/16 Solo
Hidden 04/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Steph Mitchell 31/Aug/16 -
David Stevens 31/Aug/16 -
gateaublaster 25/Aug/16 -
dpovey 23/Aug/16 -
with Geoff, Katie Smith
Hidden 09/Aug/16 -
edjenkins 09/Aug/16 Lead
with Helen Baldwin, Chris Bunce
AndrewP 06/Aug/16 -
ashsleight 20/Jul/16 Lead

Lead 4 Army

ClareM.123 12/Jul/16 -

Turned back due to thunder storm :(

Hidden 30/Sep/15 Lead O/S
andy dunn 26/Sep/15 -
with Claire
Claireybloomers 26/Sep/15 -
with Andy
Hidden 20/Sep/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/15 -
Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
bclifton 05/Sep/15 -
andyclimber 25/Aug/15 -
Andy Fielding 10/Aug/15 Solo
Hidden ?/Aug/15 -
yossarian714 19/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Rowan Ellwood
john. e.r 06/Jul/15 Lead
Penygraig ?/Jul/15 -
with Gwyn4
philmitch 29/Jun/15 -
PatrickEnglish 21/Jun/15 -

First day of Exercise Italian Stallion

rlade ??/2015 -
Oujmik ?/Oct/14 -

Great route, yes there's a fair bit of walking, but there's decent amount of ferrata too and the setting is fantastic.

with Jyoti
Sean Martin 12/Sep/14 -

Short easy sections and a lot of walking but a nice outing in all

Charlie Low 12/Sep/14 -

Not worth the walk in. Way too many gaps between cables once reaching the ferrata.

with Sue Low
Hidden 09/Sep/14 -
Celia Watson 09/Sep/14 -
Bradbury 01/Sep/14 -

East side of valley overlooking Cortina to the South

with Malcolm Littley, Ricko Moore, Ben Littley
owen gibson 03/Aug/14 -
Hidden 03/Aug/14 -
Jack J Keogan 03/Aug/14 -
tomdawson4 27/Jul/14 -
vix 17/Jul/14 -

Stuck behind very slow group for the first part

with Lorna
efrance24234 16/Jul/14 Solo O/S
Tim Harper 16/Jul/14 -
Hidden 11/Jul/14 Solo O/S
TomGB 11/Jul/14 -

Good fun, nice summit at the end. Finished along the Terza Cengia which was poor and not worth doing.

with Stewart Moody, Adam Butler
kb273 26/Jun/14 -
clarky_two ??/2014 -
Hidden 21/Sep/13 -
climberuk 17/Sep/13 -
with Niall
niallk 17/Sep/13 -

After snowfall the night prior. First Via Ferrata.

with Steven Harris, Pam
Hidden 17/Sep/13 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/13 -
Hidden 30/Aug/13 -
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Solo O/S
ClareHowes90 14/Aug/13 -
Hidden 14/Aug/13 -
Hidden 14/Aug/13 -
Hidden 10/Aug/13 -
Bullybones 03/Aug/13 -
heathergotrumbled 15/Jul/13 -
with MH, ST, MS
Hidden 15/Jul/13 Solo
s.tietz 15/Jul/13 Solo O/S

My first via ferrata. Excellent fun.

MJH 15/Jul/13 -
with Stephan, Heather, Mark Stitson
Mike-W-99 07/Jul/13 -

A bit disjointed and polished. Finished along the easy VF Terza Cengia

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 07/Jul/13 -

Too many gaps between the cabled sections. Finished along VF Terza Cengia

with Mike
jhobbs 04/Jul/13 -
Harvdog 04/Jul/13 -
Hidden 27/Jun/13 -
Hidden 12/Aug/12 -
Hidden 12/Aug/12 -
Hidden 26/Jul/12 -
johnpuddephatt 25/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/12 -
Will Hunt 23/Jul/12 -

Easy enough without rungs for aid.

with Rosie Cole, Halla Parkin, John Puddephatt, Huw Goodall, Matt Ringrose
jhobbs 15/Jul/12 -
tmelrose 15/Jul/12 Solo
with jhobbs
Hidden 26/Jun/12 -
noteviljoe 24/Jun/12 -
Tightsgirl ?/Jun/12 -
Nick_Merriman ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Great rest day! Invented Screeing =p

with NTU
Hidden 23/Sep/11 -
Hidden 17/Sep/11 -
JulianD 04/Sep/11 Solo

grey and wet, thunderstorm finish

with Paul B, David H
Ellie79 20/Aug/11 -
with Andy Odger, Miles Doughty, Katie H
Hidden 16/Aug/11 -
alexpattillo 25/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 19/Jul/11 Solo
aennis 30/Jun/11 -
with Colm Ennis
colenn 30/Jun/11 -
Hidden 28/Jun/11 -
Hidden 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
rch3l ?/Jun/11 Solo

Did this route loads, got my armntrapped under a fallen boulder, lost my watch and a trip to hospital

moviti ?/May/11 -
Griff87 ?/May/11 -
Little AndyH ??/2011 Lead O/S
with Camilla West
Hidden ??/2011 -
RM199 ??/2011 Solo O/S
with Hannah Moulton
Simon Preuss ?/Nov/10 -

A good day, though reached the summit as the sun dipped below the horizon, meaning finding our way through thigh deep snow across to the top of the scree gulley in a hurry before the light went..

arc_73 18/Jul/10 -
jubolo 18/Jul/10 -

The scree slope descent made this VF, a right scream.

with batts, craig
Hidden 21/Jun/10 -
David Walker 18/Jun/10 Solo O/S
with Maria
MariaT 18/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 -
AxelF ?/Jun/10 -

A great VF but a thigh-burning scree descent!

with Jeff Ashton
Hidden 03/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Sep/09 -
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
Hidden 17/Jul/09 -
monkeytennis ?/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/May/09 -
Dunx ??/2009 -
Hidden 11/Sep/08 -
Hidden 03/Sep/08 -
Hidden 03/Sep/08 -
Hidden ?/Sep/08 -
ellentaylor 26/Aug/08 -

in descent, in dark + rain.

with Ollie & Adam
31770 26/Aug/08 -

Decent from top of climb after dark

Hidden 26/Aug/08 -
Hidden 20/Aug/08 -
andrewbooth1000 06/Jul/08 -
with Rob & Mark
jcj ??/2008 -
CathS 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S

A nice long route with a good summit. Enjoyed the long walk-out too.

Monk ?/Sep/07 -
Protheroe 11/Aug/07 -
with Dave Radley
Bristoldave ??/2007 -

done as descent from S face normal route

Chris the Tall 31/Aug/06 -
with Liz and assorted minions
IggyLiz 31/Aug/06 -
with Chris, Alan, Alice, Daz & India
Hidden ?/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 09/Jul/06 -
AsleepOnBelay 07/Jul/06 -

Lovely route. Alternates steep walking & climbing. Bang on 3B. Adjoining gully is breathtaking & final 300m scree run is daft fun. The ladder is fine, better than described in the book.

with Sarah Davis
Hidden ?/Jul/06 -
Elsier ?/Jul/06 -
with Stuart
Graeme Hammond 23/Aug/05 -
Toerag ?/Jul/05 -
with Samantha Woolcombe
Hidden 25/Jun/02 -
matthewjbellamy ?/Apr/02 -
Chris the Tall 11/Sep/01 -

Great route and a fun day out, culminating in a scree race (Sam won, but not by much). Blissfully unaware of world events until we entered cafe Peter

with Sam & Colletts
dominic lee ?/Aug/01 Solo

1.30 car to car. Great scree descent.

Stone Muppet ??/2001 -
AG ??/2001 -
Wayne S ??/2000 -
abbeywall 02/Sep/99 -
with K
Steve J P ?/Jul/97 -
with JL, MG
davemhart 30/Jul/85 -
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VF3A
Mid VF3A
Low VF3A
High VF3C
Mid VF3C
Low VF3C
High VF3B
Mid VF3B
Low VF3B
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set