UKC

Rockfax Description
This classic via ferrata is most famous for the iconic suspension bridge used in the Cliffhanger film. Whilst the bridge, located a stone's throw away from the top station of the Staunies gondola, is invariably busy, the rest of the route is in a remote and beautiful environment. With the exception of the upper part surrounding the bridge there isn't a great deal of wire and much of the route can be considered an exposed ridge scramble through fascinating terrain with a good amount of war history.
The route can be done in either direction though it is arguably best done as an ascent from Rifugio Ospitale to the Staunies lift station. This way the route ends with the best sections of climbing and bridge crossing, but this approach is less popular because of the risk of missing the last lift down. Thus the more popular route from Forcella Staunies to Ospitale will be described here.
Approach - From Cortina, take the Tre Croci Pass (SS48 ) signed towards 'Misurina'. After 8km there is a large parking area on the right opposite the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift station. The usual approach is then via the two stage Rio Gere lift system. First the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift and then the Son Forca/Staunies gondola. The latter is an experience in itself, be careful getting on and off the lift.
For those not wanting to take the lifts it is possible to ascend on foot via path 206 and then 203 as far as Rifugio Son Forca. From here you have to hack up the large scree bowl directly under the Son Forca/Staunies gondola. This is not recommended; the walk isn't particularly scenic, there is just over 1200m of ascent before you even start the via ferrata and the final scree slope is arduous at best. Just pay the money, you'll be glad you did. The lifts normally open in late June and run until mid September. It is worth checking the exact lift opening times (which vary from season to season) with Rifugio Lorenzi or the Cortina tourist office.
VF - The ferrata starts directly from the top gondola station. Follow good signing to a ladder. Ascend this and pass through a short wartime tunnel to cross the iconic 30m suspension bridge. This leads to a pair of ladders that take you onto a broad ridge. Follow the ridge southwest, with spectacular views, descending the wire with aid of a ladder to reach Forcella Grande. Avoid the path leading off to 'Sentiero Ferrata Renato de Pol' to the north. Instead follow good waymarking for via ferrata Ivano Dibona and Ospitale down another ladder and onto a series of ledges. Traverse these northwestwards until you reach the old wartime barracks, 'Baracca Bivacco Buffa' situated at 2760m. Continue heading west along the well-marked route with sporadic protection until the route turns south to descend a scree gully. At the bottom of this the path forks and you turn right continuing for Ospitale.
The route then continues its descent to the northwest in an increasingly remote environment until you reach more war remains and buildings at Zurlon. Continue to Col di Stombi, a small peak that marks the end of the ridge-line with lovely views of the Val Padeon below. A final steep descent on switchbacks leads to a good track and the main road (SS51 ) on which Rifugio Ospitale is located.
Return - To return, take the Cortina Express, which runs hourly from Rifugio Ospitale to the main bus station in Cortina. From Cortina take the Dolomitibus to the Tre Croci Pass. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Big Routes.


ClimberDateStyle
someonecalledtom 04/Sep/18 -
Hidden 31/Jul/18 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/17 Solo
Andy England 23/Aug/17 Solo
with Ollie England, Claire_Tippers
faye 04/Aug/17 Solo
with rosso
rosso 04/Aug/17 Solo O/S

From Rifugio Ospitale to Rifugio Lorenzi

with faye
Andyjharper 18/Jul/17 Solo

Just went a few hundred meters to enjoy the bridge and tunnels

LucaDF 03/Jul/17 -
with Alives
Hidden ?/Jul/17 -
Hidden ?/Jul/17 -
Steph Mitchell 01/Sep/16 -
David Stevens 01/Sep/16 -

First section past suspension bridge

SophieWalker 22/Aug/16 2nd
Michael Bonallie 22/Aug/16 Lead
with Iain Slinn, Aj Zein, SophieWalker, Emma Bryning
tobyk 08/Aug/16 -

This was going to be our rest day, but actually turned into a mini-epic. The lift to staunies was out of action so decided to slog up the scree. By the time we'd got to the top we didn't fancy going down the same way, so ended up doing most of Ivano Dibona, and missed the last cable car down. Got back to the car at 8pm...so much for a rest day!

with Emma Akam
Matthew Davies 06/Aug/16 -

The gondola is no longer in operation so we had to hike 1200m to the summit up very loose scree to start the route.

PilarMartinez 21/Jul/16 Solo
Julesthe1st 21/Jul/16 Solo
with Robin, PilarMartinez
steveg 20/Jul/16 -

Only went as far as summit of M.Cristallino

Hidden 16/Jul/16 -
ClareM.123 15/Jul/16 -

Went along until just after the bridge after doing Marino Bianchi.

A Jackson 03/Jul/16 -
with Neil Murphy
Martin Davies 23/Jun/16 -

AMAZING! Full day out - brutal heat, walking off in 35C+ according to Suunto. Amazing views and panoramas. Just possible without using rope, again sections where cable buried but not too difficult to bypass.

with AdP
bclifton 06/Sep/15 -
Hidden ?/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/15 Solo O/S
kirky_p 28/Aug/15 -
IJHunt 27/Aug/15 Solo dnf

Only went to the first summit on the extension route.

with Fiona
Andy Fielding 11/Aug/15 Solo

To the first two ladders and suspension bridge and back to the start.

ynot 07/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Ali
yelotango ?/Aug/15 -
ali macphee 10/Jul/15 Solo
with Hilary
Penygraig ?/Jul/15 -
with Gwyn4
PatrickEnglish 22/Jun/15 -

From the Rifugio to the summit and then back. Also popped up to cross the bridge.

Hidden 13/Sep/14 -
JulianD 08/Sep/14 Solo

Lovely long ridge, ending down at Ospitale

with Paul B, David H
kirky_p 02/Sep/14 -
Hidden 21/Aug/14 -
jussiupn 16/Jul/14 -

The best scenery of all my via ferratas. Easy access with skilift. We only went to highest point and returned to rifugio.

with Riku Pyyhti?, Jonna Pyyhti?, Paavo Kuosmanen, Panu Markkanen, Rauno Hakanen, Junde
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug/13 -
brianrunner 05/Aug/13 Solo

bus to lift station, took lift up and walked along ridge northwards to road, then bus back to cortina. this is a great varied route.

with steve wells, martina
Bullybones 02/Aug/13 -

Just the first bit to (bridge, summit, descent off the back) from the lift station and back.

Fiona Reid 18/Jul/13 -

Perhaps a bit overhyped, some good views and a pleasant enough walk. We did the full traverse to Ospitale then bus/taxi back to collect the car.

Mike-W-99 18/Jul/13 -

Good for the views etc but as a ferrata a bit of a non event. Cicerone book had very pessimistic timings!

David Walker 10/Sep/12 Solo O/S

Great day out with brilliant scenery, but the Via Ferrata was pretty much all in the first hour. More of a walk, protected in places after that!

dpiddock 10/Sep/12 Solo O/S
MariaT 10/Sep/12 Lead O/S
zoeimogen 09/Aug/12 -

Just to the first summit

JamesRich 01/Aug/12 -

Only up to the ladder immediately after the bridge and back

with Paul Rich
jhobbs 17/Jul/12 -
tmelrose 17/Jul/12 Solo
with jhobbs
Hidden 06/Sep/11 -
AndyMcCoy 22/Jul/11 -
Hidden 17/Sep/09 Solo
Hidden 17/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/09 -
Hidden 21/Aug/09 -
cas smerdon 15/Aug/09 -
jcj ??/2009 -
Julie B 23/Jul/08 -
Joe Miller 23/Jul/08 -

Just did last bit from refuge to summit.

with Julie B
guy stabler ??/2008 -
guy stabler ??/2008 -
JulianD 01/Aug/06 -
with Ann
andy tetsill ?/Aug/06 -

only as far as the summit then returned to rifuge Lorenzi Cort 6, Cicerone Via Ferratas Italian Dolomites vol 1

riddle ?/Jun/06 AltLd

stunning route, helped by a polish family who had a rope! survived a lightning storm. Long day but amazing route.

with Tom, Tom & Camilla
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Solo O/S
Toerag 13/Jul/05 -

Did this one from the Hut all the way down to Ospitale.

with Samantha Woolcombe
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Aug/04 Solo
Chris the Tall 28/Aug/03 -

Just went over the bridge and up to the summit

sam coward 02/Aug/03 -
with Helen
jamie ward 20/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with John Howes
matthewjbellamy ?/Apr/02 -
abbeywall 31/Aug/99 -
with K
Steve J P ?/Jul/97 -
with JL, MG
sims ??/1990 -
freeheel47 ??/1986 -
11 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High VF2A
Mid VF2A
Low VF2A
High VF2C
Mid VF2C
Low VF2C
High VF2B
Mid VF2B
Low VF2B
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set