Rockfax Description
This high altitude via ferrata is perfect for those wanting to get up high in a remote environment, whilst enjoying a more modest grade of climbing. Whilst sections of technical climbing are few, this is more than compensated for by the stunning views and situations. The via ferrata can get exceptionally busy in peak season, particularly if the weather is good, so it is worth avoiding at the weekends. The majority of the route unfolds above 3000m and can hold snow for much of the season so it should not be underestimated. Monte Cristallo is also notorious for holding cloud, particularly in the afternoon. For this reason it is worth making an early start. Keep an eye on the time so that you can make the last lift back down if you are not planning on staying at Rifugio Lorenzi. Whilst it is possible to descend all the way on foot the scree under the Son Forca/Staunies gondola is unpleasant, especially in the dark! If you have time it's also worth doing the first 200m or so of via ferrata Ivano Dibona to see the impressive suspension bridge.
Approach - From Cortina take the Tre Croci Pass (SS48 ) signed towards 'Misurina'. After 8km there is a large parking area on the right opposite the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift station. The usual approach is via the two stage Rio Gere lift system. First take the Rio Gere/Son Forca chairlift and then the Son Forca/Staunies gondola, which is an experience in itself - be careful getting on and off the lift. From here a 2 minute walk to the southeast takes you to the easily visible Rifugio Lorenzi.
For those not wanting to take the lifts it is possible to ascend on foot via path 206 and then 203 as far as Rifugio Son Forca. From here you have to hack up the large scree bowl directly under © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fantastic views of the surrounding area. Can see the Tre Cime on a clear day.
Note: as of 2019 the upper lift (Staunies gondola) no longer runs. The approach therefore begins at Rifugio Son Forca.


Big Routes , Dolomites Trip


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High VF2C
Mid VF2C
Low VF2C
High VF2B
Mid VF2B
Low VF2B
High VF2A
Mid VF2A
Low VF2A
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sentiero Attrezzato Nico Gusella

Grade: VF2B ***
(Pale di San Martino)

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