The original Oread route of the crag. Start on the right and take the easiest line up and left to a tricky move gaining a junction with the DNA arete. Continue across the face of the buttress to the top of OCM, before finishing up the little hanging groove. Awesome positions abound!

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza.

benw681 19/Jun/17 Lead
with Hannah, Yuki
Chriswallis2 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Anna
mickg777 ??/2014 Lead
thrutch 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Sven
Ketu 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

hard crux, top end of 5a, excellent climb but not quite the mega classic I was expecting (see article in On Peak Rock guide book listing the top 8 climbs on gritstone compared to Rocksport's Original where Helix is listed along side the Peapod, Valkyrie, Suicide wall etc, which while it is good it isn't anywhere near in the same league), 2x abseils to get gear so rob could lead too

with Rob
Graeme Hammond 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt

climbed the crux better on 2nd using a different sequence. Overall actually enjoyed it on 2nd better as I could relax completely whilst climbing

with Rob
pauldrew 17/Jul/10 Lead
Coel Hellier 03/May/07 Lead
mark s ??/2006 Lead
with andi t
chrishedgehog 20/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Joe Thompson
Hidden 22/Mar/98 2nd β
Gordon Stainforth 30/May/96 2nd
with Steve Dean, Chris Thorp, John Cutcliffe
Roget 01/May/92 Solo rpt
Roget ??/1988 2nd O/S
with jim
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High E1
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High 5b
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High 4c
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Flashed (β)
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