Climb the front of the buttress left of Shagrat past a peg runner to a good pocket (large cam). Swing left (weak thread, and peg above) and continue up past an undercut/layaway block to an easier finish through the roofs.

The guide describes the first roof as the crux, and the first peg is a recent addition.

WillAndrew 04/Feb/17 Lead RP

Climbed it once clean on toprope to scope out the moves/gear then went for the lead. First (probably just E4) E5 in the bag!

Quarryboy 27/Dec/16 TR dog

Leading this would be quite an intimidating prospect.

Stanners 27/Dec/16 TR O/S

Pleased to have got this onsight (toprope!) with zero feeling in my fingers. Felt pretty straight forward, excellent climbing with enough gear by the looks of things. Did the obvious start up the flake giving a soft E4 6a** or top end E3 5c**. F6c ish. Will be sure to come back and redpoint

with Mark davies, Martin Stanfield, Jack Bradbrook
tobydunford 01/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Kirsty Kerr
Ollie B 26/Jun/16 Lead β

Abbed down and looked at the kit and holds. Both fine. Only 1 peg left now unlike guide description.

with Robyn, A.Rosier
grp 25/Apr/16 Lead RP

Great route and good climbing just need some small cams and a big one so doesn't feel e5 really. I climbed it in not the best style. Fell on the first overlap pulled the ropes and left the gear in for the initial easy slab section. Went from the ground on the second go I even simulated placing the gear up the easy start in an attempt to keep James quiet. But I'm sure he'll still slate me for it. Well done for the flash James My favourite route at goblin!!

James Smith 25/Apr/16 Lead β
with geoff
grp 05/Feb/15 Lead dog

fell towards the top onto the higher peg then continued to the top. my second then had the peg slide out as he was taking the draw out.

Dan0Me 04/Jul/14 TR
with Geoff P
RichyBOYY 04/Mar/14 TR O/S
climbergg 01/Apr/12 2nd
Tim M 01/Apr/12 Lead dog

Climbed this several times over the years, starting to the right of the first peg (to avoid the true start) makes an excellent steep E3 5c **. Although the guide says something about not much gear, you can pretty much lace it up. Today however I dogged it!

with Emma
adam cooper*super* 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S

really good, still stick to E4 though

Jack_F 18/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Brilliant route got death pump at the top and thought it was game over. thank god for a lucky ass foothold i managed to stick!

T ny ??/2010 -
guy xavier percival 08/Jun/08 Lead RP
with paul
Paul Robertson 08/Jun/08 2nd rpt

Avoided the first roof by climbing up just right of the peg.

Paul Robertson 22/Jun/06 Lead dog

Strength and confidence ebbed away below the (easy) top roof

with Ben Friedland
Billg 15/Oct/00 Lead O/S
with Harry
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
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High E6
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High 6b
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Flashed (β)
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