Climb the obvious deep gully on the west end of the cliff. Under banked out conditions there is a pitch of steep snow followed by a couple of ice pitches and a steep cornice exit. A very atmospheric route.

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Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter, Easy 3 and 4 star Scottish winter routes

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
acrkirby 18 Feb, 2018 AltLd first two easy pitches up soft snow finished by a fun move through the cornice up an icey chute, cornice was overhanging and could have been dangerous if it was any hotter
first two easy pitches up soft snow finished by a fun move through the cornice up an icey chute, cornice was overhanging and could have been dangerous if it was any hotter
BarneyLoosemore 18 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Mixture of conditions, but for the most part good ice. Cornice was enormous so escaped right. Blue sky, light wind - stunning day. Walked in from the Hutchinson
Mixture of conditions, but for the most part good ice. Cornice was enormous so escaped right. Blue sky, light wind - stunning day. Walked in from the Hutchinson
furbrow 22 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Full of soft snow. First step fragile, best led by persons of insignificant mass.
with Bruce McC
Full of soft snow. First step fragile, best led by persons of insignificant mass.
with Bruce McC
Hidden 7 Jan, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 7 Jan, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 4 Jan, 2017 AltLd
pas 17 Feb, 2016 AltLd Unconsolidated deep powder. Last section had good ice, but a little thin for 18 cm ice screws.Cornice avoided on the right...good day though.
with John Taylor
Unconsolidated deep powder. Last section had good ice, but a little thin for 18 cm ice screws.Cornice avoided on the right...good day though.
with John Taylor
andycash 9 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S
with LucaC
with LucaC
LucaC 9 Feb, 2016 AltLd Snow some what unconsolidated, but some good ice on p2. Small cornice easily passed on the right.
Snow some what unconsolidated, but some good ice on p2. Small cornice easily passed on the right.
Mikejamoon 12 Jan, 2016 Solo
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
mountain musher ??, 2016 -
kelliroberts3 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Dave OB
with Dave OB
Pete Rigby 20 Feb, 2015 AltLd
clams ?Feb, 2015 Lead
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
SWalls 23 Dec, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 23 Dec, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Alan.rodger 20 Jan, 2014 AltLd
with morsg
with morsg
morsg 20 Jan, 2014 AltLd In good condition, ice screws and deadman useful.
In good condition, ice screws and deadman useful.
Hidden 29 Dec, 2013 Lead
Cadairmanuk 18 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S
with John Weale
with John Weale
Hidden 19 Jan, 2013 AltLd
DavPk 19 Jan, 2013 AltLd Lean conditions. Soloed first pitch including short ice step over chockstone. Rich lead next (crux) pitch ~6-8m near-vertical ice step. DH did next pitch with another ice step but not as steep. DP lead final pitch with short ice section through narrows and steep cornice exit. Horrendous spin drift going over top. Definitely grade IV today.
with Dave Heritage, Richard Church
Lean conditions. Soloed first pitch including short ice step over chockstone. Rich lead next (crux) pitch ~6-8m near-vertical ice step. DH did next pitch with another ice step but not as steep. DP lead final pitch with short ice section through narrows and steep cornice exit. Horrendous spin drift going over top. Definitely grade IV today.
with Dave Heritage, Richard Church
crispy 19 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
dan doran 27 Dec, 2012 -
Colin Mcgregor 27 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Danny Doran
with Danny Doran
Hidden 18 Dec, 2012 2nd
joeydurkin 13 Dec, 2012 AltLd
with Jimmy
with Jimmy
annep 12 Dec, 2012 2nd First ever ice climbing. Amazing situations.
with Joris
First ever ice climbing. Amazing situations.
with Joris
murray ?Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 12 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 12 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Fairly easy, but soft and scary cornice.
with Batt
Fairly easy, but soft and scary cornice.
with Batt
Batt 12 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Drippy with soft top out but good belay below
with Hoyes
Drippy with soft top out but good belay below
with Hoyes
kenneM 11 Feb, 2012 Lead Great route and in good nick.
with Theeni
Great route and in good nick.
with Theeni
victim of mathematics 11 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S A great trip through some impressive surroundings
with Pagan
A great trip through some impressive surroundings
with Pagan
Theeni 11 Feb, 2012 2nd
with kenneM
with kenneM
Hidden ?Feb, 2012 AltLd
morsy 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd
with peter berwick
with peter berwick
joe king 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
with steve pettit
with steve pettit
Pete23 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
with Stephen Mors
cmars89 28 Jan, 2012 Lead did the last two pitches in a one-a, didnt have enough rope left to sling around a boulder at the top, made an ice axe t slot anchor which was fine! Amazing weather!
with Hodge
did the last two pitches in a one-a, didnt have enough rope left to sling around a boulder at the top, made an ice axe t slot anchor which was fine! Amazing weather!
with Hodge
steveP 28 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Excellent route - two short ice pitches
Excellent route - two short ice pitches
a13x 28 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Caspar
with Caspar
t_stork 28 Jan, 2012 Lead Quite busy which is shame, but a cool route and Hells Lum is always amazing.
with Bregje
Quite busy which is shame, but a cool route and Hells Lum is always amazing.
with Bregje
Hidden 28 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Jan, 2012 2nd
Hidden 22 Jan, 2012 2nd
Callum Anderson ??, 2012 -
iaincoker ??, 2012 2nd
with simon coker
with simon coker
Hidden 12 Feb, 2011 2nd
freudy_love 12 Feb, 2011 Lead O/S Pretty much swam the last 5 metres, 15m above a shitty stubby screw in shitty ice, above a ranshackle belay of 2 small half hammered in wires, a half hammered in kingpin, and a half inch hammered in bulldog :) My partner couldn't get one of the wires and the bulldog out so musta been ok!
Pretty much swam the last 5 metres, 15m above a shitty stubby screw in shitty ice, above a ranshackle belay of 2 small half hammered in wires, a half hammered in kingpin, and a half inch hammered in bulldog :) My partner couldn't get one of the wires and the bulldog out so musta been ok!
centurion05 1 Feb, 2011 Lead
williamsd79 1 Feb, 2011 2nd
theotherpetehill 28 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Melty
with Myr
Melty
with Myr
Kayan 28 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with danJBA
with danJBA
danJBA 28 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Kayan
with Kayan
Hidden 22 Jan, 2011 AltLd
abbeywall 22 Jan, 2011 AltLd waiting a long time to do this. Wonderful remote atmosphere away from Sneachda. Climbing is straightforward but the situation is awesome. Great mountaineering day. Soloed to ice pitch with good rock belay. Ran out 60m to another rock belay and 30 m out to r of cornice.
with K
waiting a long time to do this. Wonderful remote atmosphere away from Sneachda. Climbing is straightforward but the situation is awesome. Great mountaineering day. Soloed to ice pitch with good rock belay. Ran out 60m to another rock belay and 30 m out to r of cornice.
with K
RagingPuffin 21 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Tom baines
with Tom baines
Hidden 21 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Cardi 9 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Led main pitch. Soloed up to the base of the main ice fall, after trying Deep Cut and going off route. Massive powder drop on us from above the Chancer, and loads of spindrift!
with Sam S
Led main pitch. Soloed up to the base of the main ice fall, after trying Deep Cut and going off route. Massive powder drop on us from above the Chancer, and loads of spindrift!
with Sam S
chrisallan 2 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
shugsan 2 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Max, Chris A
with Max, Chris A
Hidden ?Jan, 2011 AltLd
Hidden ?Jan, 2011 AltLd
PAJames ??, 2011 -
James Gordon ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mark88 9 Mar, 2010 AltLd
with Graham Kelshaw
with Graham Kelshaw
John Roe 9 Mar, 2010 Lead
with Brian Smith (Kinloss), Sam Thorburn
with Brian Smith (Kinloss), Sam Thorburn
Brian Smith 84 9 Mar, 2010 2nd First steep ice route, fantastic day under blue skies with some nice ice pitches. Big cornice to turn at the top.
with Sam Thorburn, John Roe
First steep ice route, fantastic day under blue skies with some nice ice pitches. Big cornice to turn at the top.
with Sam Thorburn, John Roe
Roddy MacTaggart 24 Feb, 2010 AltLd Great ice
with Simon Carter
Great ice
with Simon Carter
Si Carter 23 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S Alt leads with Roddy MacTaggart. Best weather ever seen in cairngorms. Awesome clear blue sky. Plenty of ice on route, 2 steep but short sections. Huge cornice but easily turned.
Alt leads with Roddy MacTaggart. Best weather ever seen in cairngorms. Awesome clear blue sky. Plenty of ice on route, 2 steep but short sections. Huge cornice but easily turned.
Timo Austino 20 Feb, 2010 Solo
Hidden 18 Feb, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2010 -
tallthinmonkey ?Mar, 2009 2nd
with Rafa
with Rafa
Dave Everett ?Mar, 2009 2nd
Hidden 24 Feb, 2009 Solo
Neil McA 24 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S Great easy day out on the international meet, did 2 winter routes and 2 summer routes in the same day
with Jacques
Great easy day out on the international meet, did 2 winter routes and 2 summer routes in the same day
with Jacques
Hidden 15 Feb, 2009 AltLd
groovypiper 14 Feb, 2009 Solo O/S
Hidden 1 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 1 Feb, 2009 Solo
Neil Adams 1 Feb, 2009 Solo O/S Went across to do the Chancer but blunt tools and cowardice made us change plans pretty quickly!
Went across to do the Chancer but blunt tools and cowardice made us change plans pretty quickly!
alpinist63 ?Feb, 2009 AltLd
inuklm 3 Jan, 2009 AltLd
with Dave Gent
with Dave Gent
Hidden 1 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
tomt11j ?Jan, 2009 AltLd Super lean conditions, finished out of the gully, as left ice was thin
with Saul, Serge
Super lean conditions, finished out of the gully, as left ice was thin
with Saul, Serge
Novice ??, 2009 -
jsrous ??, 2009 AltLd
with Aly Robertson
with Aly Robertson
andymoin 28 Dec, 2008 AltLd rpt
with adw07
with adw07
mulletcocktail2000 28 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S cracking little ice pitch on the middle. top end grade 3 in lean conditions.
with john
cracking little ice pitch on the middle. top end grade 3 in lean conditions.
with john
Hidden 28 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
davidgent ?Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S Lean conditions, so prob. an extremeley kicked in III/IV.
with Kunal
Lean conditions, so prob. an extremeley kicked in III/IV.
with Kunal
Jim Slater 29 Nov, 2008 2nd O/S Ice conditions were very thin. Heart in mouth when Phil led second pitch with no protection.
with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Ice conditions were very thin. Heart in mouth when Phil led second pitch with no protection.
with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Captain Solo 29 Jan, 2008 AltLd rpt and Nick
and Nick
markharro ??, 2008 Lead Abortive camp on the plateau sent us to the relative quiet of Loch Avon and a return the next day via Hell's Lum
with Mark Clark
Abortive camp on the plateau sent us to the relative quiet of Loch Avon and a return the next day via Hell's Lum
with Mark Clark
andymoin 3 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S Very atmospheric, big iceicls covering the left walk, I led the first pitch and the two ice falls, some good ice covered with a layer of snow. Want to come back in lean condition when its less banked out.
with Andy Barret, RobScotland
Very atmospheric, big iceicls covering the left walk, I led the first pitch and the two ice falls, some good ice covered with a layer of snow. Want to come back in lean condition when its less banked out.
with Andy Barret, RobScotland
RobScotland 3 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with andymoin, Andrew Barrett
with andymoin, Andrew Barrett
Smudge03 21 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Nath Figg
with Nath Figg
Hidden 19 Feb, 2007 2nd
djking1983 19 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Jan, 2007 AltLd
Tom Gadsden ?Jan, 2007 Lead O/S
mike.moss ?Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
Tom Gadsden ?Jan, 2007 Lead O/S Led P1, Mike through cornice. Long first pitch, best belay off first large block.
with Mike
Led P1, Mike through cornice. Long first pitch, best belay off first large block.
with Mike
timmy-ts ??, 2007 -
Nobster 30 Dec, 2006 Lead O/S
with Sven
with Sven
andyinglis ?Feb, 2006 Solo 3 steep ice sections, need a rope chucked down for the cornice after trying to take the vertical left exit .... idiot.
with steve
3 steep ice sections, need a rope chucked down for the cornice after trying to take the vertical left exit .... idiot.
with steve
Wil Treasure ?Jan, 2006 2nd Second winter route, quite thin and others thought maybe IV which was nice.
with Malcolm, Coups
Second winter route, quite thin and others thought maybe IV which was nice.
with Malcolm, Coups
Chris L Hill ?Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
with Stuart Shaw
Francis Blunt Climb-Norge ?Jan, 2006 2nd Since a recent Rock fall, there was a steep ice pitch, Joe said grade 5!
with Joe Williams
Since a recent Rock fall, there was a steep ice pitch, Joe said grade 5!
with Joe Williams
Jamie Simpson - Alpine Dragons ?Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S The second ice pitch was III/IV.
with Andy Munro
The second ice pitch was III/IV.
with Andy Munro
Hidden ?Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 29 Dec, 2005 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 14 Mar, 2005 Solo
Johannes Petersen ??, 2005 AltLd
with Dom Porter
with Dom Porter
Hidden 29 Dec, 2004 AltLd O/S
tompercy ?Feb, 2004 AltLd
with Tim Loftus
with Tim Loftus
John Kettle ??, 2004 Solo
crowberry gully 13 Mar, 2003 - Humungous cornice, escaped up right with thanks.
with Ross McGibbon
Humungous cornice, escaped up right with thanks.
with Ross McGibbon
Hidden 21 Feb, 2003 2nd
niall_mac ?Feb, 2003 Solo very good conditions
very good conditions
Ben lad ??, 2003 -
Hidden 26 Feb, 2002 Lead
Hidden 18 Feb, 2001 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Dec, 1999 AltLd
Jamie B ?Dec, 1999 AltLd
with Mike Warren
with Mike Warren
BobbyMotherwell ?Feb, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Walker, Ken Harris, Eric Horne
with Duncan Walker, Ken Harris, Eric Horne
nickdonohue 25 Jan, 1998 AltLd
with Derek Ashworth
with Derek Ashworth
Hidden ?Jan, 1998 2nd
dangates ??, 1998 -
with Kirk Watson
with Kirk Watson
innes ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
clampton 22 Dec, 1996 AltLd
with Innes Deans
with Innes Deans
Bruce Kerr 22 Dec, 1996 AltLd
with Alan Smith
with Alan Smith
Hidden ??, 1996 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1996 -
marxk ??, 1990 -
pingora 22 Feb, 1988 -
with A Small
with A Small
mark-abz 20 Feb, 1988 Solo
with Andy W
with Andy W
Hidden 23 Feb, 1984 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1984 Solo
Hidden ??, 1981 2nd
Hidden ?Feb, 1980 AltLd
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Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set