Climb the obvious deep gully on the west end of the cliff. Under banked out conditions there is a pitch of steep snow followed by a couple of ice pitches and a steep cornice exit. A very atmospheric route.

Ticklists: Cairngorm Winter Climbs, 3 star Scottish winter.

furbrow 22/Mar AltLd O/S

Full of soft snow. First step fragile, best led by persons of insignificant mass.

with Bruce McC
Hidden 07/Jan AltLd
Hidden 07/Jan AltLd
Hidden 04/Jan AltLd
pas 17/Feb/16 AltLd

Unconsolidated deep powder. Last section had good ice, but a little thin for 18 cm ice screws.Cornice avoided on the right...good day though.

with John Taylor
andycash 09/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with Luca
LJC 09/Feb/16 AltLd

Snow some what unconsolidated, but some good ice on p2. Small cornice easily passed on the right.

with Andy
Mikejamoon 12/Jan/16 Solo
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
mountain musher ??/2016 -
kelliroberts3 20/Feb/15 AltLd
with Dave OB
Pete Rigby 20/Feb/15 AltLd
clams ?/Feb/15 Lead
with PR
plain kitten ??/2015 -
SWalls 23/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 23/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
alan.rodger 20/Jan/14 AltLd
morsg 20/Jan/14 AltLd

In good condition, ice screws and deadman useful.

Hidden 29/Dec/13 Lead
Cadairmanuk 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with John Weale
Hidden 19/Jan/13 AltLd
DavPk 19/Jan/13 AltLd

Lean conditions. Soloed first pitch including short ice step over chockstone. Rich lead next (crux) pitch ~6-8m near-vertical ice step. DH did next pitch with another ice step but not as steep. DP lead final pitch with short ice section through narrows and steep cornice exit. Horrendous spin drift going over top. Definitely grade IV today.

with Dave Heritage, Richard Church
crispy 19/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
with Steven
dan doran 27/Dec/12 -
Colin Mcgregor 27/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with Danny Doran
Hidden 18/Dec/12 2nd
joeydurkin 13/Dec/12 AltLd
with Jimmy
annep 12/Dec/12 2nd

First ever ice climbing. Amazing situations.

murray ?/Dec/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Fairly easy, but soft and scary cornice.

Batt 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Drippy with soft top out but good belay below

kenneM 11/Feb/12 Lead

Great route and in good nick.

with Henry Crosby
victim of mathematics 11/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

A great trip through some impressive surroundings

with Andy
Theeni 11/Feb/12 2nd
with Mike Kennedy
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd
morsy 29/Jan/12 AltLd
with peter berwick
joe king 29/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with steve pettit
Pete23 29/Jan/12 AltLd
with Stephen Mors
cmars89 28/Jan/12 Lead

did the last two pitches in a one-a, didnt have enough rope left to sling around a boulder at the top, made an ice axe t slot anchor which was fine! Amazing weather!

with Hodge
steveP 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent route - two short ice pitches

a13x 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
with Caspian
t_stork 28/Jan/12 Lead

Quite busy which is shame, but a cool route and Hells Lum is always amazing.

with Bregje
Hidden 28/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jan/12 2nd
Hidden 22/Jan/12 2nd
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
iaincoker ??/2012 2nd
with simon coker
Hidden 12/Feb/11 2nd
freudy_love 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Pretty much swam the last 5 metres, 15m above a shitty stubby screw in shitty ice, above a ranshackle belay of 2 small half hammered in wires, a half hammered in kingpin, and a half inch hammered in bulldog :) My partner couldn't get one of the wires and the bulldog out so musta been ok!

centurion05 01/Feb/11 Lead
with dyl
williamsd79 01/Feb/11 2nd
theotherpetehill 28/Jan/11 AltLd O/S


Kayan 28/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
danJBA 28/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Jan/11 AltLd
abbeywall 22/Jan/11 AltLd

waiting a long time to do this. Wonderful remote atmosphere away from Sneachda. Climbing is straightforward but the situation is awesome. Great mountaineering day. Soloed to ice pitch with good rock belay. Ran out 60m to another rock belay and 30 m out to r of cornice.

with K
RagingPuffin 21/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Tom baines
Hidden 21/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Cardi 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Led main pitch. Soloed up to the base of the main ice fall, after trying Deep Cut and going off route. Massive powder drop on us from above the Chancer, and loads of spindrift!

with Sam S
chrisallan 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
shugsan 02/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Max, Chris A
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd
PAJames ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mark88 09/Mar/10 AltLd
with Graham Kelshaw
John Roe 09/Mar/10 Lead
with Brian Smith (Kinloss), Sam Thorburn
Brian Smith 84 09/Mar/10 2nd

First steep ice route, fantastic day under blue skies with some nice ice pitches. Big cornice to turn at the top.

with Sam Thorburn, John Roe
Roddy MacTaggart 24/Feb/10 AltLd

Great ice

with Simon Carter
Si Carter 23/Feb/10 AltLd O/S

Alt leads with Roddy MacTaggart. Best weather ever seen in cairngorms. Awesome clear blue sky. Plenty of ice on route, 2 steep but short sections. Huge cornice but easily turned.

Timo Austino 20/Feb/10 Solo
Hidden 18/Feb/10 AltLd
Hidden ??/2010 -
tallthinmonkey ?/Mar/09 2nd
with Rafa
Dave Everett ?/Mar/09 2nd
Hidden 24/Feb/09 Solo
Hidden 15/Feb/09 AltLd
groovypiper 14/Feb/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 01/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
Alasdair Fulton 01/Feb/09 Solo
Neil Adams 01/Feb/09 Solo O/S

Went across to do the Chancer but blunt tools and cowardice made us change plans pretty quickly!

with Ally F
alpinist63 ?/Feb/09 AltLd
inuklm 03/Jan/09 AltLd
with Dave Gent
Hidden 01/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
tomt11j ?/Jan/09 AltLd

Super lean conditions, finished out of the gully, as left ice was thin

with Saul, Serge
Novice ??/2009 -
jsrous ??/2009 AltLd
with Aly Robertson
andymoin 28/Dec/08 AltLd rpt
with Warren
mulletcocktail2000 28/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

cracking little ice pitch on the middle. top end grade 3 in lean conditions.

with john
Hidden 28/Dec/08 AltLd O/S
davidgent ?/Dec/08 AltLd O/S

Lean conditions, so prob. an extremeley kicked in III/IV.

with Kunal
Jim Slater 29/Nov/08 2nd O/S

Ice conditions were very thin. Heart in mouth when Phil led second pitch with no protection.

with Tim Pearson, Phil Lee
Captain Solo 29/Jan/08 AltLd rpt

and Nick

with Karl
markharro ??/2008 Lead

Abortive camp on the plateau sent us to the relative quiet of Loch Avon and a return the next day via Hell's Lum

with Mark Clark
andymoin 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S

Very atmospheric, big iceicls covering the left walk, I led the first pitch and the two ice falls, some good ice covered with a layer of snow. Want to come back in lean condition when its less banked out.

RobScotland 03/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with andymoin, Andrew Barrett
Hidden 21/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/07 2nd
djking1983 19/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jan/07 AltLd
Tom Gadsden ?/Jan/07 Lead O/S
mike.moss ?/Jan/07 AltLd O/S
Tom Gadsden ?/Jan/07 Lead O/S

Led P1, Mike through cornice. Long first pitch, best belay off first large block.

with Mike
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Nobster 30/Dec/06 Lead O/S
with Sven
andyinglis ?/Feb/06 Solo

3 steep ice sections, need a rope chucked down for the cornice after trying to take the vertical left exit .... idiot.

with steve
drysori ?/Jan/06 2nd

Second winter route, quite thin and others thought maybe IV which was nice.

with Malcolm, Coups
Chris L Hill ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Shaw
Francis Blunt Climb-Norge ?/Jan/06 2nd

Since a recent Rock fall, there was a steep ice pitch, Joe said grade 5!

with Joe Williams
Jamie Simpson ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S

The second ice pitch was III/IV.

with Andy Munro
Hidden ?/Jan/06 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 29/Dec/05 AltLd O/S
Captain Solo 14/Mar/05 Solo
Johannes Petersen ??/2005 AltLd
with Dom Porter
Dave Latimer 29/Dec/04 AltLd O/S
tompercy ?/Feb/04 AltLd
with Tim Loftus
John Kettle ??/2004 Solo
crowberry gully 13/Mar/03 -

Humungous cornice, escaped up right with thanks.

with Ross McGibbon
easers 21/Feb/03 2nd
with Stuart, Doug Aitken
niall_mac ?/Feb/03 Solo

very good conditions

Ben lad ??/2003 -
Hidden 26/Feb/02 Lead
Hidden 18/Feb/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Dec/99 AltLd
Jamie B ?/Dec/99 AltLd
with Mike Warren
BobbyMotherwell ?/Feb/98 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Walker, Ken Harris, Eric Horne
nickdonohue 25/Jan/98 AltLd
with Derek Ashworth
Hidden ?/Jan/98 2nd
dangates ??/1998 -
with Kirk Watson
innes ??/1997 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/96 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 22/Dec/96 AltLd
with Alan Smith
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ??/1996 -
pingora 22/Feb/88 -
with A Small
mark-abz 20/Feb/88 Solo
with Andy W
Hidden 23/Feb/84 AltLd
Hidden ??/1984 Solo
Hidden ??/1981 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/80 AltLd
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High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set