Access Banned
At least one of the house owners below the crag claims to own the land up to the foot of the cliff and one (who owns only the land below Good Day Sunshine and Sunset on the Sage) has indicated that he does not wish to allow climbing. Land registry entries are ambiguous about the upper boundaries of the properties. To avoid issues approach discreetly and climb quietly. If confronted, be polite and leave if requested.
28m.
Near the S end of the N bay of the quarry there is a nose at the top of the crag. Start at a groove directly below this. Climb the groove, often by its R wall, via an awkward mantel to a ledge below an overlap. Surmount the overlap by the R wall of the groove and bridge up until a handrail leads out R to the middle of the mid-height wall. Follow this directly to ledges (first possible lower off). Continue up the brown groove above via an awkward reach to the top.
H. Walmsley, C. Calow, M. Hounslea 10/Jan/2018.
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