UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is off limits from September 1st to end of October each year as the farmer keeps deer there and they are very aggresive during the rutting season. PLEASE do not break this ban as access is delicate, go somewhere else instead.

IMPORTANT: Parking is limited and cars must not be parked in the "turning circle", as this is needed for long farm vehicles to negotiate the hairpin and is not a car park.

The farmer had previously cleared a parking area 50m along the rough track just opposite the gate, and it used to allow for 6-7 cars. However, this area is now partly filled with logs and boulders, so there is space for only 3-4 cars now. It is strongly advised to car share and do not park in frorn of each other unless you know each other.

Follow the entire bottom lip of Dirty Harry's Cave from left to right with technical heel-hooking and core sapping moves. A link up, but with almost entirely new and independent climbing following a very strong line.
Start on Car Pit Baggers to avoid the often wet start of Climb and Punishment. Break into the fin feature of the latter route and follow it to the lip at the junction with Dead Pull. From here hand traverse the lip rightwards using technical heelhooks, until it is ultimately possible to swing into Make My Day, which is followed easily to the finish.
Now figure out how to strip the thing!

Alan Cassidy 14/Mar/2018.

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3* Scottish Sport Climbs

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