55m, 2 pitches.
Walk towards Loch Conagleann, there is a very obvious vegetated gully where Raven's Roost starts.
Pitch 1-40m Start at the bottom of the buttress as for Tip Slab. Climb left, when the good gears stops, go even more left onto the edge of the buttress, as much as you can. Then right towards the edge of the buttress. Good belay just below an overhang (on the left of a cave - see Tip Slab)
Pitch 2-15m Go around the overhang on the left, climb up to the slabs towards a young pine tree (just a bush - not for abseiling) just above the cave.
Note: some loose rock on the slabs. If possible climb up the slabs as much as possible and build a belay higher up. If the case, second pitch more than 15 metres.
Do not underestimate the walk back.
Pitch 1-40m Start at the bottom of the buttress as for Tip Slab. Climb left, when the good gears stops, go even more left onto the edge of the buttress, as much as you can. Then right towards the edge of the buttress. Good belay just below an overhang (on the left of a cave - see Tip Slab)
Pitch 2-15m Go around the overhang on the left, climb up to the slabs towards a young pine tree (just a bush - not for abseiling) just above the cave.
Note: some loose rock on the slabs. If possible climb up the slabs as much as possible and build a belay higher up. If the case, second pitch more than 15 metres.
Do not underestimate the walk back.
K.Anderson, W. MacKenzie 1966.
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Route of Interest
Savage Slit (Summer)
Grade: S ***
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