220m, 5 pitches.
Approach either up the Glen from the Dunlewey side or from the Lough Barra side. Both have a similar walk in time but an abseil allows the first approach pitch to be skipped. Park at 958 146 along the R254 before Lough Barra. Stay to the right of Srubhanavarna and the basin until you can cross between the final two lakes to gain the rib leading upwards. Once on the crest, continue in a NW direction to the obvious wall, follow the narrow gully(941 164) down the hill and continue along the slab on the right which leads to an ab platform( sling on a big flake and WC friends 4 and 1 in a tapering crack). 95m abseil to the start of pitch 4 and a 50m ab to the start of pitch 2.
The gear is mainly small wires and cams(BD .4 to micro). The first pitch was climbed unroped so the length is only an approximation.
1) 60m (3c) Start at the lowest clean slab at the bottom left of the West Buttress. Climb up the easy crack on its right edge. Continue over a step to gain the next slab, move left and climb the grassy rib until a move can be made to gain to gain the grassy ledge on the right. Move up and right to the short red and black wall.
2) 35m (5a) A few steep moves gain a ledge, move right for 2m and climb the blunt arête(no gear but easy climbing) to the large block. Move left and bridge across to the slab and thin crack, climb this and step right at the top to the grassy ledge. Move right and up the thin crack on the slab to belay below the flake.
3) 21m(5c) Move right along the flake and up the short steep wall. Trend left to the thin seam. Difficult moves lead to better holds and a few metres of easy juggy climbing.
4) 52m(5c)Climb the crack to the overhang and the obvious weakness( as for Nightshade. All pegs have been removed). Follow the thin crackline above the overhang and belay near the top of the slab.
5)52m(4a) Easy but still fun, could be nasty if wet. Climb the remainder of the crack. Bridge up the groove and reach up to a good hold on the block above. Swing across and up this, cross a grassy bridge, gain the slab and continue to the top.
The gear is mainly small wires and cams(BD .4 to micro). The first pitch was climbed unroped so the length is only an approximation.
1) 60m (3c) Start at the lowest clean slab at the bottom left of the West Buttress. Climb up the easy crack on its right edge. Continue over a step to gain the next slab, move left and climb the grassy rib until a move can be made to gain to gain the grassy ledge on the right. Move up and right to the short red and black wall.
2) 35m (5a) A few steep moves gain a ledge, move right for 2m and climb the blunt arête(no gear but easy climbing) to the large block. Move left and bridge across to the slab and thin crack, climb this and step right at the top to the grassy ledge. Move right and up the thin crack on the slab to belay below the flake.
3) 21m(5c) Move right along the flake and up the short steep wall. Trend left to the thin seam. Difficult moves lead to better holds and a few metres of easy juggy climbing.
4) 52m(5c)Climb the crack to the overhang and the obvious weakness( as for Nightshade. All pegs have been removed). Follow the thin crackline above the overhang and belay near the top of the slab.
5)52m(4a) Easy but still fun, could be nasty if wet. Climb the remainder of the crack. Bridge up the groove and reach up to a good hold on the block above. Swing across and up this, cross a grassy bridge, gain the slab and continue to the top.
K McGee, P Tinney 10/Jun/2018.
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Route of Interest
Tír na nog
Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gola Island)