North of the true summit, this is a much photographed fantastic-looking blade of granite. The climbing is excellent, sustained and balancy with a delicate crux sequence at half height (c15m) with bolt protection below it.
Access: On the top of the Spazzacaldeira find a grassy area below the granite blade of the Fiamma below a col on its south west side.
Description:
1. 3a. Scramble up a gully then go up leftwards and then return to the right to arrive at a col on the south west side of the Fiamma.
2. 5c+ c30m. Step on to the FIamma and get onto to east face via a slight ledge. Climb up an exposed hard dièdre in the summit fall line, peg at 5m. Make tricky moves to the exposed left-hand arête. Climb up this to where it turns left and overhangs. Go 2m up rightwards across an overhang to a small slab and potential stance. Make hard friction moves up left to the arête and go up this to the summit.
Descent: Abseil back to the col (awkward diagonal abseill) or be lowered off by your second. Alternatively a 20m abseil can be made down the north side. Take the S Side route to get off the Spazzacaldeira.

Hans Hürliman and Philipp Wieland 08/Aug/1936

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Paul Sagar 16 Jul Lead O/S Not just a preposterous piece of rock, but actually a brilliant climb too. Khalid and Tom were doing Dente at the same time so lots of mutual photography vanity took place.
Not just a preposterous piece of rock, but actually a brilliant climb too. Khalid and Tom were doing Dente at the same time so lots of mutual photography vanity took place.
JJWilliams 16 Jul 2nd dog Last route of the day and was quite tired / had lost a little confidence from my fall earlier. Really cool rock though and glad I did it!
Last route of the day and was quite tired / had lost a little confidence from my fall earlier. Really cool rock though and glad I did it!
mattgrange ?Jul Lead Really struggled with this! Exposed and a difficult summit to fit 3 people onto!
Really struggled with this! Exposed and a difficult summit to fit 3 people onto!
Guy Arnold 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Dave Adler
with Dave Adler
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 2nd
perrys 18 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Bruce Kerry, Alex Neame
with Bruce Kerry, Alex Neame
andrzej kierzek 18 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Tommy_shaw 30 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Matt Harmon 3 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S Great climb, pity it's not longer
Great climb, pity it's not longer
Tophe 28 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Nina
with Nina
ninastirrup 28 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Tophe
with Tophe
olekemi 7 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S Words fail...
with Mark G
Words fail...
with Mark G
Sir Pilade 24 Aug, 2014 Lead
Jodgson 6 Aug, 2014 -
Sam Marks 6 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jack Hodgson
with Jack Hodgson
davkeo 5 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 Lead
Sankey 27 Jul, 2014 Lead
with Jeff and Jon
with Jeff and Jon
cliffy 25 Jul, 2014 TR Bottled the crux move on lead only for Julian to do it. Top roped afterwards.
Bottled the crux move on lead only for Julian to do it. Top roped afterwards.
Julian Prieto 25 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with cliffy
with cliffy
DaveB61 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd dnf
with Greg Jennings
with Greg Jennings
Tarquin 16 Jul, 2014 -
Tony Lancashire 16 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Incredible spike of rock iconic climb from the Albigna hut or cable car top.
Incredible spike of rock iconic climb from the Albigna hut or cable car top.
Big Lee 17 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Great climb. Plenty of exposure.
with Pero
Great climb. Plenty of exposure.
with Pero
Pero 16 Aug, 2013 2nd
sparbus 12 Jul, 2013 Lead
with FedUp
with FedUp
ashtond6 16 Sep, 2012 Lead What a route!
What a route!
Ben1983 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
Neil McA 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Jake McAdie
with Jake McAdie
ijsbeer ?Aug, 2012 2nd β MP samen met Marnick
MP samen met Marnick
Hidden 4 Aug, 2011 2nd O/S
mic_b 4 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with heidi m
with heidi m
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 -
steve.mullan 20 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
libby.southgate 11 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S So. Cool.
So. Cool.
Hidden 11 Jul, 2011 2nd
Hidden 4 Jul, 2011 2nd
jonnie3430 4 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Louise, Emily
with Louise, Emily
Callum T ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
thecurlyone 29 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Gary Wong
with Gary Wong
garywong 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
theotherpetehill 17 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
zach.stone 17 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 4 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
markfairbank 28 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Bit of a novelty, but had some nice moves - not quite as pointy as i thought it might be!
Bit of a novelty, but had some nice moves - not quite as pointy as i thought it might be!
SteveMyatt 28 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark Fairbank
with Mark Fairbank
davepc ?Aug, 2009 Lead
with Mike
with Mike
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
Elsier 20 Jul, 2009 2nd
with Stuart
with Stuart
ajtay 4 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Pete Smith / Pete McCartney
with Pete Smith / Pete McCartney
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Ed Hill
with Ed Hill
Byronius Maximus 27 Jul, 2008 2nd O/S Brilliant exposure!
Brilliant exposure!
Hidden 19 Jul, 2008 Lead β
Guy Wilson ?Jul, 2008 -
with Byron Buck
with Byron Buck
steve2006 ?Jul, 2008 Lead O/S 5th day we headed back up Spazzacaldeira and bagged this “flamme”(5c) a gloriously day.
5th day we headed back up Spazzacaldeira and bagged this “flamme”(5c) a gloriously day.
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2003 Lead
with Liz Cross, Julian Wood
with Liz Cross, Julian Wood
thebat ??, 2003 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
yellowsubmarine ??, 2000 -
Brian Rodgers ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Rob Smith
with Rob Smith
Marti999 27 Aug, 1994 Lead O/S
Andy Say 14 Jul, 1994 Lead
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead
jcw ??, 1994 -
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
Hidden ?Aug, 1977 AltLd
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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set