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A stumpy granite tooth next to the slender blade of the Fiamma. However it overhangs the NW face of the Spazza and gives wonderful views down the Val Bregaglia. The last pitch is a sustained crack climbed on layaways and finger holds that goes on for ever. Take a Friend 2.
Access: The base of the Dente is north of the Fiamma. Find a notch just east of the Dente and traverse about 10m to the start.
1. 4b 45m. Climb up a steep broken slab via cracks to a stance below the tower of the Dente with a thin crack splitting the east face. Pegs mark the way. Or use the connecting ridge from the Fiamma and cross over to the stance at the thin crack by hard and exposed moves.
2. 6a+ (5/A0) 20m. Go over a flake on the right, then climb a small overhang to reach and climb the thin crack on the east face. Up this crack to the summit.
Descent: Abseil 25m off the summit on the north side to a small terrace. Scramble over unstable flakes right to reach a ledge at the base of the Fiamma. Then take the S Side route to descend from the Spazzacaldeira.

Hans Rütter and Philipp Wieland 21/Aug/1944.


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High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest


Grade: 6b ***