A stumpy granite tooth next to the slender blade of the Fiamma. However it overhangs the NW face of the Spazza and gives wonderful views down the Val Bregaglia. The last pitch is a sustained crack climbed on layaways and finger holds that goes on for ever. Take a Friend 2.
Access: The base of the Dente is north of the Fiamma. Find a notch just east of the Dente and traverse about 10m to the start.
Description:
1. 4b 45m. Climb up a steep broken slab via cracks to a stance below the tower of the Dente with a thin crack splitting the east face. Pegs mark the way. Or use the connecting ridge from the Fiamma and cross over to the stance at the thin crack by hard and exposed moves.
2. 6a+ (5/A0) 20m. Go over a flake on the right, then climb a small overhang to reach and climb the thin crack on the east face. Up this crack to the summit.
Descent: Abseil 25m off the summit on the north side to a small terrace. Scramble over unstable flakes right to reach a ledge at the base of the Fiamma. Then take the S Side route to descend from the Spazzacaldeira.

Hans Rütter and Philipp Wieland 21/Aug/1944

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tom Blake 16 Jul AltLd O/S
Paul Sagar 16 Jul Lead dog First pitch more like 5c. Second pitch tekkers AF, 6b+? Got it wrong early doors and then decided I royally could not be arsed climbing it free, so aided the absolute fuck out of it. Nice view from the top.
First pitch more like 5c. Second pitch tekkers AF, 6b+? Got it wrong early doors and then decided I royally could not be arsed climbing it free, so aided the absolute fuck out of it. Nice view from the top.
JJWilliams 16 Jul 2nd dog Didn’t necessarily fall or take rests... but on the 6b pitch I did use a few bolts as footrests and now and then a quick draw provided a handy pull me up.
Didn’t necessarily fall or take rests... but on the 6b pitch I did use a few bolts as footrests and now and then a quick draw provided a handy pull me up.
Tophe 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Nina
with Nina
ninastirrup 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd
with Tophe
with Tophe
Hidden 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd dog
benkelsey 10 Aug, 2012 2nd β stood on a peg but its the alps init! :) looked well good in the sun on top of the world.
with remus
stood on a peg but its the alps init! :) looked well good in the sun on top of the world.
with remus
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Ed Hill
with Ed Hill
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Mihkel 10 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with Steve Beckwith
with Steve Beckwith
Brian Rodgers ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Rob Smith
with Rob Smith
jcw ??, 1994 -
with Julian Cox
with Julian Cox
Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set