North of the true summit, this is a much photographed fantastic-looking blade of granite. The climbing is excellent, sustained and balancy with a delicate crux sequence at half height (c15m) with bolt protection below it.
Access: On the top of the Spazzacaldeira find a grassy area below the granite blade of the Fiamma below a col on its south west side.
1. 3a. Scramble up a gully then go up leftwards and then return to the right to arrive at a col on the south west side of the Fiamma.
2. 5c+ c30m. Step on to the FIamma and get onto to east face via a slight ledge. Climb up an exposed hard dièdre in the summit fall line, peg at 5m. Make tricky moves to the exposed left-hand arête. Climb up this to where it turns left and overhangs. Go 2m up rightwards across an overhang to a small slab and potential stance. Make hard friction moves up left to the arête and go up this to the summit.
Descent: Abseil back to the col (awkward diagonal abseill) or be lowered off by your second. Alternatively a 20m abseil can be made down the north side. Take the S Side route to get off the Spazzacaldeira.
Hans Hürliman and Philipp Wieland 08/Aug/1936.
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