150m, 4 pitches. You need to be a particulary good slab padder on this hard route which literally equates to an E3/4 6a/b route. Reasonable protection with bolted stances. Take a set of nuts and Friends 21/2–31/2. The route ascends a compact and steep pillar right of a deep chimney/dièdre. It was the first grade VIII in the Albigna.
Access: From the cable car station take the road to the hairpin bend and descend along the base of the wall. Pass beyond the scree cone and look immediately afterwards for the base of a large flake which you get onto from a block. There is, as usual, a red mark indicating the start.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. VI 30m. There is an oblique crack to the left. Get up to it and climb it to the base of a large detached block (VI). Avoid it on the right and then get onto its top.
2. VIII- 35m. Go initially leftwards then follow a small dièdre which slants rightwards (VII-) and is followed by a hard, short steep wall (VIII-). At a flake (‘hourglass’ thread), cross over to the left and climb a short dièdre going right from its top (VI+).
3. VIII 40m. Go to the foot of a large slab. Go horizontally left and then return to the slab’s centre with some departures from the line of bolts (VII+/VI+). Follow a crack from the centre of the slab and at its end get onto a vein of quartz, hard (VIII), which you follow rightwards. Climb a slab (VII+) on friction (?) to a stance.
4. VIII 45m. Go up to a flake and small pillar. Climb a compact slab beyond it with decreasing difficulty (VIII to VII) and reach a crack system on the right which takes you more easily to the last stance.
Descent: Abseil back down the route.

Rossano Libera, Valentino Libera and Davide Biavaschi 1991.

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