UKC

Also called Leni Links. An upper and a lower section joined by the Leni route. The protection is reasonable and the stances excellent.
Access: From the dam guardian’s house take the road/track to the wall, go beyond a big block and folow the trace of a path to the base of the wall and a red mark (5 minutes).
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. 6a+ 40m. From the red mark climb directly up the left side of a slab aiming towards the left-hand end of an overhang. Get over this and take a stance shared with the Leni route.
2. 6c 45m. Climb directly up the slab to reach and ascend a flared crack leading to a terrace and stance.
3. 7a 35m. Climb up a knobbly wall and continue more easily up a slab.Stay on the slab and climb up to the ridge. Ab off from here (ab station at each belay) OR
5. 3 15m. Gain the top of the Plattenturm and descend to a grassy saddle.
Descent: The final stance is well equipped and you can abseil 25m down the couloir behind the tower. Traces of a path lead further down to a 10m drop. Either abseil or down climb this to reach a grassy area. Walk on down to the dam keeper’s house.

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High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
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Route of Interest
Via da Capo

Grade: 7a ***
(Spazzacaldera)

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