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Ticklists: Ben Nevis Gully Climbs, Winter Aspirations.

ChrisH89 07/Apr/18 Lead O/S

Lived up to its name, belayed in a cascading waterfall after first pitch. Good first pitch, then very easy ground for rest of the gully until the relatively straightforward top mixed section. Probably no longer in condition now...

Adam.Watson 07/Apr/18 2nd
Hidden 04/Apr/18 Lead O/S
Fiona Hughes 03/Apr/18 2nd
with SP
loonylovegood93 02/Apr/18 2nd O/S
Harrison_Connie 02/Apr/18 Lead

1st pitch then abbed off, nice ice, good screws. The climbing was very very short lived. Lots of spindrift

with Alistair Bell
RM199 02/Apr/18 Lead O/S

1st pitch then abbed off

joem 02/Apr/18 Lead rpt

just the first pitch before heading down.

with Phil behan
Hidden 01/Apr/18 Lead
Neil Adams 01/Apr/18 Solo O/S
with Malcolm Bass
Al_Mac 01/Apr/18 Lead

Originally intended to ab off the threads and go off to do Boomers on the tip off that it was fat but elected to top out as the gully looked so atmospheric, and the day way too nice to spend in the shade. Pitched the ice and the wee step at the top but aside from that just moved together. Took the ropes off and finished up Ledge Route. An absolute stonker of a day. Got sunburnt and blinded from the sun bouncing off the snow and ice! Not much climbing but a great day out.

Mbaillie 01/Apr/18 2nd
with Al_Mac
Mark Bannan 01/Apr/18 Lead O/S
with William
Fiona Hughes 01/Apr/18 2nd
with SP
Malcolm Bass 01/Apr/18 Solo
with Neil Adams
mBob8 31/Mar/18 Lead O/S

Lead crux first pitch and then abseiled off V-threads to save time/energy for the following day.

Hidden 31/Mar/18 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/18 Solo O/S
Dave Payne 31/Mar/18 AltLd

Very good. Descended ledge route for a nice mini circuit.

with Colin Dyer, Leonide
partz 30/Mar/18 AltLd O/S

Lead the ice pitch, felt pretty easy III grade. Topped out and went down via number three

with joem
Colin Dyer 30/Mar/18 AltLd

Climbed the whole thing and descended legde route for a good Mountaineering style day. Very good condition at the moment, first time sticks all the way. One star undersells it a bit.

Hidden 30/Mar/18 AltLd
joem 30/Mar/18 AltLd

great ice on the first pitch bit meh from then on but nice to do the complete route. topped out via ledge route.

with partz
Ken Applegate 25/Mar/18 Lead

Climbed the route to the top. What the route lacks in technical climbing, it more than makes up for in its journey through amazing scenery. We also climbed a great pitch of grade IV/V ice on the left hand side of the gully.

with Wes
Robertgiddy 25/Mar/18 AltLd

Bit damp, easy for the grade. Worth climbing the whole route for a good mountaineering expedition through good scenery.

Chapstick 21/Mar/18 2nd
Hidden 18/Mar/18 2nd
Andrew Sloan 17/Mar/18 2nd O/S

Abseiled off after initial ice pitch. Well travelled, easy for the grade at the moment.

with Pip
Hidden 17/Mar/18 2nd
pipmccarthy 17/Mar/18 Lead

Stepped out and low in the grade. Abbed off after first pitch.

with andy
furbrow 17/Mar/18 2nd

Queued for one pitch and ab.

with Stewart B
Hidden 17/Mar/18 2nd
oliverk 17/Mar/18 2nd
with Paul, Tim E
mike hope 14/Mar/18 AltLd rpt

Rapped after 1st pitch. good ice

with Martin S
HimTiggins 10/Mar/18 Lead O/S

Savage winds, ended up on this in attempt to find some kind of refuge ... Spindrift central! As standard, abbed after 1st pitch.

with Gking
Hidden 07/Mar/18 TR
Hidden 07/Mar/18 Lead
pingora 07/Mar/18 2nd

All the way to summit Carn Dearg

Hidden 06/Mar/18 Lead
R Brown 04/Mar/18 2nd O/S
Mr Fuller 04/Mar/18 Lead O/S

First pitch then abbed off abalakov. Pretty good nick.

with R Brown
Dave Payne 03/Mar/18 2nd

First pitch

with Mark G
Hidden 03/Mar/18 Lead O/S
tiga271 24/Feb/18 2nd
phil64 24/Feb/18 Lead

Quite thin but good sport.

with Simon Rankin
Climbed69 12/Feb/18 Lead

Started out to the right, was like grade five for first ten metres, vertical ice

with Simon Stokes
Swiss Tony ??/2018 -
Hidden ??/2018 -
clanger ??/2018 -
Climbed69 15/Feb/17 TR

Thawing fast, Simon led and set up a top rope to allow me to quickly climb the first pitch...good ice at low level but cruddy at the top ramp of the first pitch.

with Simon Stokes
Andrew Nelson ??/2017 -
Hidden ?/Apr/16 2nd
Andrew Holden 11/Mar/16 Lead
climber34neil 10/Mar/16 -

With Mark s

GlennWatson 09/Mar/16 2nd
with Robin Bennie, Ken Christie
Ken Christie 09/Mar/16 Lead
with Robin Bennie, GlennWatson
Hidden 08/Mar/16 -
Hidden 07/Mar/16 AltLd
Matt Reed 07/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

I led P1,2,3. Adrian up to ledge route

with Dave Cundy, Ade Clifford
Hidden 05/Mar/16 AltLd
Col Kingshott 05/Mar/16 2nd
martinbettridge06 05/Mar/16 Lead

Pitch 1. Enjoyed, good condition.

andymcronald 04/Mar/16 2nd

First pitch only which is the only difficult pitch. Abseiled out afterwards.

The Bad Cough 01/Mar/16 AltLd rpt
with stoned
stephen ashworth ?/Mar/16 2nd
with Ian hendy
ian hendy ?/Mar/16 Lead rpt
with Stephen Ashworth
Hidden 28/Feb/16 2nd
mmmhumous 28/Feb/16 Lead O/S

First grade IV lead. Did first pitch and abbed off. Decent ice and gear throughout. Adam did first few meters, Ged was on belay duty

JWrighty 27/Feb/16 2nd
Hidden 26/Feb/16 Lead rpt
Roger Pyddoke 26/Feb/16 AltLd
with Alex
Hidden 25/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Mapleleaf 24/Feb/16 2nd

Climbed the first two pitches.

with Snow & Ice Jagged Globe
Mark Stevenson 20/Feb/16 Lead rpt
nation1 18/Feb/16 Lead
with Dave Payne
mes32 18/Feb/16 Lead O/S

Led first (main) pitch then abbed off. Lovely ice, good screws, great climbing!

Hidden 18/Feb/16 2nd dnf
planetmarshall 17/Feb/16 Lead


with Mark
Tim Sparrow 17/Feb/16 -

A bit soft in places. Just the first 60m pitch as loads of fresh snow around.

with nniff
nniff 17/Feb/16 -
Stanners 14/Feb/16 2nd O/S

After much um'ing and arr'ing we decided to go for pitch 1 to finish off the weekend before the long walk out and long drive home. Excellent ice climbing!!! Would of been nice to do the whole thing but much too knackered and too little time.

with Giles
Pete_Stewart 13/Feb/16 2nd O/S

Did the first ice pitch, then abseiled back down from some in-situ gear

with Joe
Finn Curry 12/Feb/16 2nd
with Paul Warnock
Mark Stevenson 12/Feb/16 Solo rpt
Hidden 11/Feb/16 -
Dave Payne 11/Feb/16 -

First pitch, ok conditions

with Ross
scottmarcberry 10/Feb/16 Lead

The first pitch had running water behind it but there was enough there with good ice. Plenty of powder on the left but was avoided by turning the bulge to the right on to solid ice. Water clearly seen running underneath the 2nd pitch but good neve was found on the right. From the 2nd belay to the cave niche we moved together in loose, knee deep powder (a struggle & pretty hairy) a good thread belay can be found. The traverse was step, thin on ice & loaded with fresh powder. The basin was loaded also & good neve was hard to find. This was also true of the final slope up to the top of Ledge Route that we thought it safer to pitch it to the top as deep powder made progress slow & dangerous. Decent via Ledge route, again this had been loaded with powder & was approached with caution (it was stepped out never the day before). We should have ab'd off the first pitch instead of committing to swimming in powder. The traverse offers interest if you can be bothered to push on.

Josh Wade ??/2016 -
davkeo 05/Mar/15 Solo O/S

Thaw taking hold. Nice first pitch.

ian hendy ?/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Mark Booker
Col Kingshott 28/Feb/15 Lead O/S
mim tiller 22/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Feb/15 Lead
Phill_ Thompson 15/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Good ice, seemed steep for Tech 4.

with Lucy Prins
metrorat 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Brendan Bailey
Jonny Nick 04/Feb/15 2nd O/S

Seconded Chris and then abbed off from top of first pitch

joeallen28 03/Feb/15 2nd O/S

First pitch then abbed off. First taste of steep ice. Amazing!

mzchambers 02/Feb/15 Lead O/S

Did the first pitch in the morn then. Climb the hole route in the afternoon. Far bit of snow on the upper pitches.

with Ewan L
NickJH ?/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with AClifford
stephen ashworth ?/Feb/15 AltLd
with Paul cubbins, Jack southward
The Bad Cough ?/Feb/15 AltLd rpt

Carried on up to the cave then stepped right.

with Steve Ashworth, Jack Southward
gingerking ?/Feb/15 Lead
arose 24/Jan/15 Lead

First pitch

with Clients
joesmith 24/Jan/15 2nd

First pitch, then abbed off.

with JackM92
HaddRoots 24/Jan/15 2nd O/S

Seconded first pitch with guide then abbed off. First proper ice pitch, great climbing!

with Kirkhope, Witold
JackM92 24/Jan/15 Lead O/S

Abseiled off first pitch.

Lawrie Brand 20/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Stevenson
Mark Stevenson 20/Jan/15 2nd
Rob Royle 18/Jan/15 2nd

We were planning on climbing The Curtain, however, as we were approaching another team got caught in a slide at the base of the route. Everyone ok but this route was now not an option........ Waterfall Gully was a nice alternative under the circumstances!

with Guide
John McKenna 17/Jan/15 Lead O/S
akhughes ??/2015 -
adie84 ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 22/Feb/14 -
freemanTom 22/Feb/14 AltLd

Unethical ascent as used guides car park. Not in IV condition first pitch Very banked out. Mostly soft snow plodding. Mostly moved together with 60m of rope out and no runners. Textbook technique!

with Chris Coapes
phil64 19/Feb/14 Lead

so banked out at the moment but good

Hidden ?/Feb/14 Lead
mutt ?/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 24/Mar/13 AltLd
Mr Messy 24/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
HardenClimber 21/Mar/13 -

Did as two pairs, on a wild wild day. Pitch at top was quite delicate.

with Ben Wyatt, Adrian Hart, Hamish Gillespie
Matt Reed 20/Mar/13 2nd

1st pitch, abbed off.

with Darren
Clevelandclimber 17/Mar/13 AltLd
with Chris Evans, andybrown114
Hidden 17/Mar/13 AltLd
Hidden 17/Mar/13 2nd
Hidden 25/Feb/13 AltLd
2010_graham 17/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Climbed initial ice field to snow ramp and then abseiled down.

with Olle K
Adam T 14/Feb/13 2nd
with Max, Susie
geoff b 13/Feb/13 Lead

About the only route do-able on a very windy grim day. Glad we had the hut to retreat to!

with Dr. Nick
sacdenouilles 12/Feb/13 AltLd

Brillant day. Great view on Gemini. Finish on Ledge Route.

with J F Philippe
Jonny Nick 11/Feb/13 AltLd

Epic, bloody long climb going from the base of the crag to the plateau. Topped out in the dark with gale force winds.

Captain Solo 10/Feb/13 Solo

Start well stepped out, worth continuing to the top of route for the scenery.

olekemi 10/Feb/13 Lead

Climbed the water ice pitches.

with Graham D, Mark G
Hidden 09/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/13 2nd O/S
Bezz 04/Feb/13 2nd
Flett ?/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Feb/13 Lead
Ann S 30/Jan/13 2nd dnf

High winds on the tops meant looking for ice at low levels. We did the first pitch of Waterfall gully -good ice but a shower of water coming down from above us which then instantly froze. Abbed off and walked out with difficulty in strong winds.

with Scott Kirkhope MIC
Ralfy 28/Jan/13 Lead O/S

Did First pitch 50m then absailed.

with Paul Beacall, Paul Cubbins
The Bad Cough 28/Jan/13 2nd O/S
with Ralfy, Paul Beacall
captain ??/2013 -
cox 28/Dec/11 AltLd
with mall
flo1 20/Mar/11 AltLd
with Big Lee
Big Lee 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Recce'ed the Curtain but it far too thin so opted for Waterfall Gully. Snow & ice on first pitch was a bit soft and unstable with poor screw protection due to warm temperatures. Continued to top to gain Ledge Route.

with flo1
Milesy 19/Mar/11 2nd

Nick led myself and craig. Abbed off before big slabby snow basin after difficulties.

with Craig
Hidden 18/Mar/11 Lead O/S
carpguru 26/Feb/11 2nd
squicky 22/Feb/11 2nd dnf

Large piece of ice hit leader so bailed

with Andy Turner, rg1976
tebs 21/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Abbed off before the basin at the top. Not the greatest route on the Ben.

Karlos 20/Feb/11 Lead O/S

Led P1. Plenty of ice, but boomed a little when you kicked it. Stepping out round onto the slabby bit wasn't half as bad as it looked - a great sense of exposure. Explored up to the second pitch, but then retreated as far too windy to continue up onto the ridge. A short day but well worth the walk.

chris smith 19/Feb/11 AltLd
monkeyman79 18/Feb/11 TR O/S

First pitch on top rope via two variations. Quality ice!

with Roger Mear, David Edmondson
Hidden 18/Feb/11 TR O/S
DrJon 16/Feb/11 2nd O/S
with Ed, Elen
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 AltLd
luckyjim ?/Apr/09 AltLd
with D Helm
Hidden 29/Mar/09 2nd
AB1965 15/Feb/09 -
sdawson1 08/Feb/09 AltLd O/S

nice route

with steven
steven 06/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Simon Dawson
cragmanuk ??/2009 -
with Andy Kipling
fellgazelle 27/Mar/08 -

In poor condition

with Chris Dale
Hidden 01/Feb/07 -
Hidden 22/Mar/06 AltLd
Luke Brooks 22/Mar/06 AltLd
andymoin 19/Mar/06 AltLd dnf

I led up the first pitch first of IV, 35m of steep water ace, very exciting. Dropped my bag as we had a bite to eat, it skited of down the gully and launched into the air, it was later recovered about 200m down. Russ didn't seam to like the first pitch, got very scared and wanted to retreat, so we abbed down. Great fun wish we could of finished the route as we'd done the hard bit.

with Russel Barbour
jaggy bunnet 11/Mar/06 AltLd
Hidden ?/Feb/05 AltLd
James B ?/Mar/04 -
with Phil
Hidden 13/Mar/99 AltLd
Mark Stevenson 10/Mar/99 2nd

1st pitch only

mike hope ?/Mar/98 AltLd O/S
with Martin S
Hidden 21/Jan/95 Lead O/S
tlr ?/Jan/95 AltLd
with Nj
uphillnow 02/Feb/91 -

Mike led first pitch then we continued on to Green Gulley and soloed that. All good nick

with Mike Gill
Hidden ?/Feb/87 AltLd
Lone Rider 09/Feb/86 AltLd

Did first pitch of Gemini, then looked at the thedirect on Waterfall before finishing up normal route.

with John Christie
jcw ??/1986 -
with Roger Everett
Hidden 05/Feb/84 2nd
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High IV
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High 5
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Style of ascent
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