350m, 9 pitches. Western Buttress, a line up the centre. My latest recommended pitches (sept 2014)- 1. 40m to huge block belay, 2. 60m very easy to enter West central Gully(so get 2nds to start moving so you can reach on 50m ropes). 3. 25m up deep cleft to block belay below steep wall. 4. 40m Crux moves bridging up frequently damp rock then zigzag best line to reach continuation chimney rising leftward. 5. 35m Tr right to waterworn groove, ascend then fractured basalt blocks rightward (&ignore tempting clean slab) to easy left slanting slab & belay 5m up this. 6. 45m Up slab easily past blocks then take 1st basalt fault on R. I broke out right from this before it straigtens up to a good thread belay at top of a 3m grass tongue. 7 45m Regain basalt chimney & belay on wedged capping chock. 8. 50m Surmont chock then take cleanest rock just L of chimney to avoid choss. Break out R-ward to gain rib overlooking Western Gully. 9+ 80m Ascend fine rib moving together or 2 easy pitches.

E W Steeple & H E Bowron 1909

BIain 28/May/17 AltLd dnf

Had minor epic, went off route just before chimney and ended up having to ab, kicked off huge block which two walkers had to run out of the way of, ended up finding route again, leading up the chimney holds popped and sent me down (sling runner held). We bailed off very swiftly battered and bruised. Lower half of the route is very chossy, TAKE 60m DOUBLES as its a bit blank if u have to bail off the route. (left red camp screwgate + lots of tat)

adamvisick 28/May/17 AltLd

Went the wrong way. Iain caused a rockfall on abseil. Found correct route, Iain pulled part of the face off with him and took a tumble. Called it a day and went home.

with BIain
Tom.Priestley 04/May/17 Lead O/S

up to engineers slant then off on that route. Led all.

Abigail Sanderson 07/Jul/16 2nd O/S
Sam Marks 09/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Simuled some sort of line, intended to be on the buttress to the left... more like 450 meters!

with George Newham
Hidden 05/Jun/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/May/13 AltLd O/S
Private Flounder 02/Jun/12 AltLd
Chris Manasseh 02/Jun/12 AltLd

Led pp 2,4,6,8+9

Private Flounder 27/May/12 AltLd
with chris manasseh
John Nuttall 27/Mar/12 -

Alternate leads 1965, went off route somewhere. Solo 2012 think I was on line this time. Brilliant for atmosphere and position.

Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
Captain Solo 11/Jun/11 Solo

Sling for aid at slimy chimney under steep wall.

Jay C 09/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Sam W
samwillo 09/Jun/11 AltLd
with Jay
rfdl100 27/Apr/11 AltLd

Went off route after 2nd pitch

with Matt Mitchel
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd
vvanhinsbergh 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
holly138 06/Jun/09 2nd
Liam Ingram 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
BMrider ?/Jun/09 AltLd

much drier than usual, apparently

Fergus Cuthill ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Fiona M
joe larner 11/May/09 Solo
Hidden 21/May/08 -
bigbobbyking 25/Jun/07 -

Got pretty lost - top pitch felt more like VS!

with Dominic
Iain Thow 27/Jul/00 Solo

Very intimidating and with rather intricate route finding. I regularly see people climbing round in a circle on the middle bit!

Hidden ??/1983 -
Hidden 01/Jun/79 AltLd O/S
Mike C 31/Jul/78 AltLd
with Chris Roberts
mrsphene ?/Jun/78 Lead

First ever lead. Great weather - excellent climb, although peters out a bit near top.

tapley 02/Aug/75 Lead
with Alison Tapley
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