Restricted Access
A crag for the experienced only - great adventures and stunning routes, but some loose sections and scary run-outs as well.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restrictions for this cliff were reviewed in Spring 2021 and restrictions now only apply to the following routes:
Duration of the restriction - February 1st-June 30th. (nesting Ravens and Choughs).
Routes that fall under the above restrictions are:
- Tell Your God To Ready For Blood
- Chosstokovitch
- Error Of Judgement
Previous restrictions around the Noble Savage area have been removed due to no evidence of nesting birds for many years.
Start just left of the foot of the prow. Climb brittle juggy flakes for 6 meters to a ledge, (silver Dragon Cam below a small roof).move up and right on crunchy holds to gain a standing position on a red sandstone shelf, (cams out right at foot level). Continue up and rightwards, carefully(!) to a resting position beneath a small roof. Place the first good gear under the roof with great relief and make stiff pulls over the roof and next overlap (1st crux), into a crack, continue up veering slightly right for gear in a hollow pillar and rest, (cams). Step left and cross the golden wall to horizontal breaks below the blunt rib in the white wall above, (good small cams). 2nd crux - Crimps on perfect rock lead up the rib to the top.
First ascent: Mick Lovatt & Nick Bullock 16th August 2018
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Craig Doris
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Stairway to Silence
Grade: E7 6b ***
(California)