Also known as the Central Spur and Voie Normal (F4+). A great classic and good introductory climb for the Spazzacaldeira with delightful climbing on generally excellent rock with some possibly flaky flakes. Several bolts and pegs. Don’t stray off route. The Nigg variant is a grade harder.
Access: From the dam go up the track to the scree cone between the Plattenturm and the NE Ridge base pillar. Follow a path up this cone go up across rock via a couloir/chimney (II+) to the start at the base of a nice arête right of a deep chimney/couloir (ring peg, 1/4 hr).
Description:
1. 4c 40m. Climb to and up the crest of the rib/arête right of the chimney/couloir to a terrace stance.
2. 3a 30m. Descend down to the blocks which cap the couloir/chimney. Pass behind the tower block on your right and the wall on the left. Do not go right. Emerge onto ledges above a small area of scree with a wall ahead of you on the left with a climbing set of individual edges going up right to a crack line.
3. 4c. 40m. Climb the ledges - go right across them - awkwardly to gain the steep crack line and go up it, well equipped with pegs, to overcome a short chimney and then continue more easily to a stance.
4.3a. c30m. Go up a dièdre to an obvious ledge and belay.
5. 4a. c50m. Gain the crest and enjoy fine exposed climbing along it to a stance in a notch. You can stay in the dièdre virtually to the top. This is easier and quicker but wrong.
6 and 7. 4a. c100m. Climb out of the notch and continue along the crest with more exposed and great climbing to the final stance above a drop at the junction with the N Ridge.
Descent: S Side. Down climb or abseil 6m from the final stance of the NE Ridge to an area of blocks. Go 80–100m south (II) to arrive below the Dente. Continue carefully over blocks and slabs going first down and then up to find the little gap at the top of S Side route.

A. Sommer 07/Sep/1928

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mark Salter 8 Jul AltLd O/S
with Chris Shorrock
with Chris Shorrock
Hidden 7 Jul AltLd
mattgrange ?Jul AltLd Good but struggled to identify the correct line for P3, so aborted an attempt on the offwidth with the pegs/tat and went too far right instead, necessitating freeing a stuck rope and generally wasting time. The á cheval pitches were great though.
Good but struggled to identify the correct line for P3, so aborted an attempt on the offwidth with the pegs/tat and went too far right instead, necessitating freeing a stuck rope and generally wasting time. The á cheval pitches were great though.
Hidden 26 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Pigpen 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
carrierd65 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Pigpen
with Pigpen
GarethSL 22 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S From pitch 4 and up as a continuation of via felici. Wonderful straightforward climbing and simul climbing to the 6m abseil point.
with Einar, Steffan
From pitch 4 and up as a continuation of via felici. Wonderful straightforward climbing and simul climbing to the 6m abseil point.
with Einar, Steffan
alexcollins123 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Retro Rowan 14 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Rory Shaw 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with jkfb, wi11
with jkfb, wi11
wi11 23 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Jo Boyd, Rory Shaw
with Jo Boyd, Rory Shaw
Keith Lambley 23 Jul, 2017 Lead
with Kate R
with Kate R
Hidden 20 Jul, 2017 2nd
Hidden 18 Jul, 2017 -
abbeywall 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with K
with K
Bruce Mcknight 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd dog Followed several other groups up. Tricky route finding, and a long descent.
Followed several other groups up. Tricky route finding, and a long descent.
HelenB 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Sarah Roscoe 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Matt Harmon 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Fun climbing
Fun climbing
olekemi 7 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Simul-climbed most of it.
with Mark G
Simul-climbed most of it.
with Mark G
andrzej kierzek 20 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. We started with 5a pitch.
Lead all pitches. We started with 5a pitch.
davkeo 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Aug, 2014 AltLd rpt
Rob84 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
with mel_1
with mel_1
Hidden 4 Aug, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Sankey 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd Bit damp, nice fun way to the top
with Jeff and Jon
Bit damp, nice fun way to the top
with Jeff and Jon
Julian Prieto 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with cliffy
with cliffy
cliffy 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
DaveB61 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd
with Greg Jennings
with Greg Jennings
Hidden 11 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nemmie ?Sep, 2013 -
Kirill 19 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
CurlyStevo ?Aug, 2013 AltLd I did the odd pitches, we took an easier finishing line up the gully (prior to the top arete to avoid the rain which came just after we completed the climb)
with Kirill
I did the odd pitches, we took an easier finishing line up the gully (prior to the top arete to avoid the rain which came just after we completed the climb)
with Kirill
sparbus 12 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with FedUp
with FedUp
Tdavy01 ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 -
ashtond6 16 Sep, 2012 AltLd
ads 28 Aug, 2012 AltLd
with Julie
with Julie
Neil McA 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Jake McAdie
with Jake McAdie
Hidden 10 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S finished up this after doing mosaico moved together to get to the summit.
with remus
finished up this after doing mosaico moved together to get to the summit.
with remus
ijsbeer 26 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S MP Marnick
MP Marnick
Hidden 5 Jul, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
mic_b 4 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S Moved together
with heidi m
Moved together
with heidi m
libby.southgate 10 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Alt lead/moving together. Got stormed on near the top and were glad we weren't on anything more difficult..
Alt lead/moving together. Got stormed on near the top and were glad we weren't on anything more difficult..
Hidden 10 Jul, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 10 Jul, 2011 AltLd
steve.mullan ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
Maarten2 ?Jul, 2011 AltLd Somehow lost the route, so had to back-track and a lot of faffing. Still great scenery.
with Sander, Kitti
Somehow lost the route, so had to back-track and a lot of faffing. Still great scenery.
with Sander, Kitti
Callum T ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Sarah Beth, steve.mullan
with Sarah Beth, steve.mullan
Hidden 28 Jul, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 4 Jul, 2010 2nd O/S
markfairbank 28 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
SteveMyatt 28 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mark Fairbank
with Mark Fairbank
Hidden 5 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
Elsier 20 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with Stuart
with Stuart
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 2nd
auld al ?Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
brianrunner 29 Aug, 2008 AltLd we scrambled up the gully and to the foot of the rib. there was 2 pitches of 4c directly up the rib to the ridge, not 1 (both excellent and bolted). great exposed climbing. pitch 2 (our 3) would be better described as..... 2. 3a 30m. Descend down to the blocks which cap the couloir/chimney. Go up between the tower block on your right and the wall on the left. go right after the tower down to ledges under the wall.
with martina
we scrambled up the gully and to the foot of the rib. there was 2 pitches of 4c directly up the rib to the ridge, not 1 (both excellent and bolted). great exposed climbing. pitch 2 (our 3) would be better described as..... 2. 3a 30m. Descend down to the blocks which cap the couloir/chimney. Go up between the tower block on your right and the wall on the left. go right after the tower down to ledges under the wall.
with martina
Mark Walter ?Aug, 2008 AltLd
with Ed Hill
with Ed Hill
Byronius Maximus 27 Jul, 2008 - Got utterly confused as to where the route went at one point and ended up on the big fin. Got confused again so lowered back to belay and found proper route of NE ridge!
Got utterly confused as to where the route went at one point and ended up on the big fin. Got confused again so lowered back to belay and found proper route of NE ridge!
Hidden 19 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
davepc ?Jul, 2008 Lead
with vinny
with vinny
Guy Wilson ?Jul, 2008 -
with Byron Buck
with Byron Buck
steve2006 ?Jul, 2008 AltLd Approximately 7 pitches we went off route at 3rd-pitch and spent most of the day getting to the flamme only to end up running for the cable car at 4:30pm.
Approximately 7 pitches we went off route at 3rd-pitch and spent most of the day getting to the flamme only to end up running for the cable car at 4:30pm.
wherewelf ?Jul, 2008 -
Barry D 23 Jul, 2007 AltLd Start is a bit confusing.The first bit of rock you come to is a bolted buttress which is harder than anything else on the climb.From the top of this you descend to a ring peg which is at the bottom of a chimney/gully.This point is sometimes known as the start of the route,as it can be reached by a path.At the top of the gully pitch there are 3 route possibilities,the Nigg on the left a 5c crack system up the centre and the original way rightwards follow easy but exposed ledges.
with Chris M
Start is a bit confusing.The first bit of rock you come to is a bolted buttress which is harder than anything else on the climb.From the top of this you descend to a ring peg which is at the bottom of a chimney/gully.This point is sometimes known as the start of the route,as it can be reached by a path.At the top of the gully pitch there are 3 route possibilities,the Nigg on the left a 5c crack system up the centre and the original way rightwards follow easy but exposed ledges.
with Chris M
Hidden 5 Jul, 2007 AltLd
tjekel ??, 2007 -
davetigger ??, 2007 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 8 Aug, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Marcus Harvey
with Marcus Harvey
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Sep, 2003 Lead
with Liz Cross, Julian Wood
with Liz Cross, Julian Wood
thebat ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
jsw1 21 Jul, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Kezia Pugh
with Kezia Pugh
dan gibson ?Sep, 2001 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
with helen gibson
Dave Toseland 5 Aug, 1999 Lead
with Huw
with Huw
Brian Rodgers ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Rob Smith
with Rob Smith
Andy Say 14 Jul, 1994 Lead
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Votes cast 13
Votes cast 13
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set