Known as the Central Spur Direct, it climbs the S side of the ridge instead of the N side as the parent route does. Peg protection and varied, excellent climbing.
Access: Start at the top of pitch 1 on the NE Ridge.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. V+. Climb the left arête of a fin or take the easier alternative of a chimney on the right at IV+. Stance at the top.
2. V. Go up a narrow and good slab, then a ramp to a stance at a ledge.
3. VI-. Go left along the ledge to a flake crack and up this. Make the final crux moves up overhanging rock to gain the crest of the NE Ridge and go along this to a stance. Continue up the NE Ridge climb to the summit.
Descent: As for NE Ridge.
Access: Start at the top of pitch 1 on the NE Ridge.
Description: (Treat with caution.)
1. V+. Climb the left arête of a fin or take the easier alternative of a chimney on the right at IV+. Stance at the top.
2. V. Go up a narrow and good slab, then a ramp to a stance at a ledge.
3. VI-. Go left along the ledge to a flake crack and up this. Make the final crux moves up overhanging rock to gain the crest of the NE Ridge and go along this to a stance. Continue up the NE Ridge climb to the summit.
Descent: As for NE Ridge.
Paul Nigg and L. Proyer 18/Sep/1967.
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Route of Interest
Nasi Goreng
Grade: 6a ***
(Spazzacaldera)