Restricted Access
The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Start as for Battle Against Time then follow the bolts out right then up to another finishing flake. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Battle Against Time then follow the bolts out right then up to another finishing flake.
FA. Sarah Perrett 15/Sep/2018.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stroppy | 27 Mar, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Mantle shelf at the top sounds pretty hollow. I would treat with caution. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Mantle shelf at the top sounds pretty hollow. I would treat with caution. |
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| Dan Browne | 29 Nov, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Loose rocks, climb with care. Nice route but needs cleaning up. Big cherty undercut half way up is hollow and the thin ledge near the top has completely come away from the main cliff with mud behind. Both bits of rock are easily avoidable, still climbs at the same grade. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Loose rocks, climb with care. Nice route but needs cleaning up. Big cherty undercut half way up is hollow and the thin ledge near the top has completely come away from the main cliff with mud behind. Both bits of rock are easily avoidable, still climbs at the same grade. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South
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Fear's Younger Brother
Grade: 6a ***
(Blacknor Far South)