Rockfax Description
This line has now cleaned up and provides a popular pitch that follows the steep groove to the right of Idiot Village. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
To the R of (and around the corner from) Idiot Village (and the trad route Wallcreeper) is a steep, loose groove, climb this carefully to a double maillon lower-off. (the clean crack/groove to the R is Fatty Crack VS) The grade is very provisional; take care with the holds.

Scott Titt 01/Aug/2006

Ticklists: Winspit Sport Climbs.

Challpike 22/Aug Lead
with Jack
NigelHurst 05/Aug TR O/S

High in the grade and an enjoyable climb. Be wary of what looks like a great hold just past halfway but is loose - didn't come out but probably will eventually.

Stixy 03/Aug 2nd O/S
with Stump
harry.morrish 29/Jul Lead
with Jacob
shaunadstevenson 08/Jul Lead
runwildjohn 03/Jul Lead
with Louise
kingborris 24/Jun Lead O/S
with Lindsey
Hidden 24/Jun TR
Steve Webster 24/Jun Lead dnf
lily1 24/Jun 2nd dog
thehonestwanderer 24/Jun Lead O/S
mark harrap 23/Jun Lead
naylers 20/Jun Lead
Stevosnow88 18/Jun Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 18/Jun Lead rpt
with Pilar
James_Fletcher 17/Jun Lead O/S
with Derek
Cara 11/Jun Lead dog

Had to rest on the rope just before crux as attempted to climb around the corner rather than going directly upwards

with Phoebe
LemonFresh 10/Jun Lead

Pretty steep climbing for the grade - but only short.

caron gaisford 10/Jun TR
with nick De Pauw
JezzaCat 10/Jun TR
with Caron
Bob M 07/Jun -
with Harry Cripps, Nick Foot
Yox89 04/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jun Lead
Hidden 04/Jun AltLd O/S
Mouse5 04/Jun Lead G/U
Fletch168 01/Jun Lead O/S
with Dan
Hidden 23/May Lead dog
Hidden 21/May TR dog
Hidden 21/May Lead dog
philhayes 14/May Lead O/S
danjouan 13/May Lead O/S
with Tom
Tom Bellis 13/May TR dog
with Dan
Dangerous David 07/May Lead O/S
gem_stone12 03/May Lead O/S
nimajneb 03/May Lead
Dugster 23/Apr Lead
with Stephen hoper
stephenhoper 23/Apr Lead
with Dugster
MontyH 22/Apr Lead
with Paul Milton
Hidden 22/Apr TR
Oliver Smaje 19/Apr Lead O/S
with Beth
WaterMonkey 15/Apr 2nd O/S

Felt steep and pumpy

stephenhoper 02/Apr Lead
Hidden 28/Mar Lead O/S
Dugster 19/Mar Lead
Alex 74 18/Mar Lead rpt
with Gareth Hughes
appletontheape 11/Mar Lead O/S
stephenhoper 11/Mar Lead dnf
Francescaparratt 10/Mar Lead O/S
Martin Bagshaw 21/Feb Lead O/S

Better than it looked from the ground.

with Tom Hudson
Mary Hamilton 10/Dec/16 TR
Hidden 10/Dec/16 Lead O/S
George Budd 10/Dec/16 TR O/S
Libla85 27/Nov/16 Lead dog

Pumpy warm up climb...bad choice!... However nice climb if not cold

Hinchrn 27/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Pummpy worm up!

chris cockbain 06/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Tom Draude 06/Nov/16 2nd O/S
jonkd 09/Sep/16 Lead dog
jonkd 09/Sep/16 Lead O/S
gary9t9 08/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Dom
MartinW92 ?/Sep/16 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/16 TR O/S
gary9t9 27/Aug/16 Lead rpt
Gingerlings 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Hatie, Lexie
raystandage 21/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Cole
ssutton 07/Aug/16 Lead
with Russell, Martin, Ruth
Hidden 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Caveman78 14/Jul/16 TR dnf
JoeCoxson 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 11/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with joe c
MontyH 09/Jul/16 Lead rpt
with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
sajrf123 27/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Joe_1102 24/Jun/16 Lead
with Karl
DanielleMarie 12/Jun/16 Lead rpt
Dkoi 28/May/16 AltLd
with Gaz cogger
Julesthe1st 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Pilar
flash13 15/May/16 Lead O/S
with Aurelia
Alex 74 15/May/16 Lead
with Katie , Colin
roryferris 01/May/16 Lead O/S
with emily
JoshT91 16/Apr/16 Lead dog
with Jocelyn Shimin, Hamish Warren
professorcobra 09/Apr/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
DanielleMarie 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S
ngreen ?/Mar/16 Lead
cigolio ??/2016 Lead G/U
Mattholland96 ??/2016 Lead
with Dad
Dan_F 27/Dec/15 Lead RP

2nd RP wet and unfit fun line though

with Lou
AJ007 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S
JayAsh 18/Oct/15 2nd dog
with AJ
Yinners 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with David
onlyfoddington 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Pumpy little number

with Yin
mickd 12/Sep/15 Lead
tonevert 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Amy
Hidden 15/Aug/15 Lead dog
rumblesan 10/Aug/15 Lead dnf

had to have a rest at the third bolt. Rain stopped play when I got to the top and found everything really slick. Ended up having to do some sketchy down climbing to retrieve draws.

samohtdoowde 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S

caracking day

with Anna Ludmilova Pumpkin Alexandrova
dom94 09/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Eloise
Eloise_SW 09/Aug/15 2nd dnf
with Dom
alijam42 02/Aug/15 TR
Hidden 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S
robajob 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Kt
Trace ?/Aug/15 Lead G/U
Sophie Nunn 27/Jul/15 Lead rpt
with Baby A
andy jennings 27/Jul/15 TR O/S
with Sophie
elliptic 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Sarah
climbhannahclimb 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Mark Barrett
Vizour 05/Jul/15 Lead dog

Loads of loose rock. Done with one rest as it was the last climb of the day.

with Balasz
Hidden 28/Jun/15 Lead dnf
robfir 27/Jun/15 -
Hidden 23/Jun/15 TR O/S
jungle 21/Jun/15 Lead dog

Awkard moves

naylers 16/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 14/Jun/15 Lead
Charlie Eperon 14/Jun/15 2nd
Giles Eperon 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Pike 14/Jun/15 2nd β
matt davies 13/Jun/15 Lead
jamesk93 13/Jun/15 Lead β
cmj 06/Jun/15 Lead dog
with Georgia French
mickd ?/Jun/15 Lead rpt
Jessicacrump 30/May/15 2nd
betathief 30/May/15 Lead
with Mike Harper, Jessica Crump
Alex 74 16/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dave m
tom_lewis89 19/Apr/15 Lead dog

Tired out!

with Maddy
clarendon 19/Apr/15 Lead dog
with Nil
edmundro 11/Apr/15 Lead dog

Dogged a few times halfway up. Enjoyed the top. Loose and sketchy all the way.

Hidden 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S
chris sm 05/Apr/15 Lead

First climbing after 12 mths off through injury - sagged

with Damien ?
Monkey_Alan 31/Mar/15 Lead rpt
Sophie Nunn 31/Mar/15 Lead rpt
with Alan, Brian
How easy 14/Mar/15 Lead
mdjb 08/Mar/15 Lead
Caveman_Dan ??/2015 Lead RP
Mouse Matt ??/2015 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead β
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 15/Nov/14 Lead O/S

Half the blocks were marked with chalk crosses the other half were loose.

with Steph
Hidden 04/Nov/14 Lead rpt
armand_dude 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
clarendon 16/Sep/14 Lead
with Tris
topsyturvy 16/Sep/14 Lead
with Mike P
NickSayers 13/Sep/14 Lead

fell once before completing

FernandoHidalgo 13/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Really nice route but scary, especially the third bolt or so that is quite far from the lovely holders.

with Pete
gary9t9 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dom
gary9t9 02/Sep/14 Lead O/S
eroica64 31/Aug/14 TR dog
with Jim Neville
Ciderslider 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ciderspider 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
gary9t9 21/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dom
steve taylor 08/Aug/14 Lead
with Barry Clarke, marti hallett
drifterjoe ?/Aug/14 Lead rpt
JUSTADUDE 16/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Shane
shane4747 16/Jul/14 Lead dog
Hidden 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 24/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Enca
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead dog
Murilo Lessa 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Hiannan
lazMo 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
uncontrollable 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Trace
Trace 15/Jun/14 2nd dog
HaleAlex ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Joseph Bucknall
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
ConstaBern 31/May/14 Lead
Dave Page 31/May/14 Lead
with Lenaya Page
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead
Hidden 30/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead
jtree03 23/May/14 Lead
Hidden 11/May/14 2nd
How easy 11/May/14 Lead
Hidden 06/May/14 Lead
kieranbowen 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Ruth
dee_mee_tree 04/May/14 Lead O/S
sbattams 04/May/14 Lead
stonemikey 19/Apr/14 Lead
Fatclimber 19/Apr/14 Lead dog
with Simon Horridge
SimonMarcYoung 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead rpt
cdpuk 05/Apr/14 Lead O/S
lazza ?/Apr/14 Lead
with chris
drgrange 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Jenben 23/Mar/14 -
steve1234 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/14 Lead
jopayne1988 ??/2014 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2014 -
hlburns ??/2014 -
lukejb ??/2014 TR O/S
mickd 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Philoosh 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
jasonpm 22/Sep/13 -
with Ian A
ewanjp 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Sep/13 Lead dnf
Christian_S85 07/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/13 Lead
E30Adam 25/Aug/13 TR rpt
with Adam Cook, Simon Chadney
Hidden 18/Aug/13 Lead rpt
vic11092 14/Aug/13 Lead dog
with Ben Padbury, Cara Borzych, Craig Conman
Hidden 04/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Sam Moss ?/Aug/13 TR
with Misha, JillEccles
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Flippy 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Emma
Hidden 13/Jul/13 Lead RP
jezb1 06/Jul/13 Lead

Quite steep and creaky

Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead
leedjbutler 22/Jun/13 Lead
RioVista23 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Lee had lead the first two clips so I continued from there and finished the route. Lots of laybacks with one tricky crux.

Jim-Roberts-1987 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S


with Hayley Gould
BenL 09/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 TR dnf
dannyboy83 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S
jayyaj 26/May/13 Lead
dbm 26/May/13 Lead dog

Fell just as reaching top of route. Rested and then finished cleanly.

Semtex 18/May/13 Lead rpt
with Matt
matt_read 12/May/13 Lead O/S
with Rick
el_monty 10/May/13 Lead rpt
with Zo
Boogs 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Scargs Caldwell
Semtex 04/May/13 Lead dnf
with Matt
Hidden 04/May/13 Lead
Mrabey ?/May/13 TR dog
ConstaBern ?/May/13 TR
ClemB 28/Apr/13 Lead
rlellis1 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/13 Lead dog
gjh 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
ElBarto 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Good route, would say it's well graded though.

martin one 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Sharon
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd dnf
adrianellis ?/Apr/13 TR dnf

Got pumped quickly after a long day, didn't finish.

with Rob Ellis
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead dog
tomshanti 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
with Andrew
Hidden 31/Mar/13 -
Callum Smith ?/Mar/13 Lead
JDG2428 ??/2013 Lead
homing-penguin ??/2013 2nd O/S

Lovely, sustained although the rock is suspect near the bottom

Jim Malo 30/Dec/12 Lead
with Putt
AgentStarling 18/Nov/12 Lead dnf

Took a fall above the third clip from the good holds, too pumped to think! Will get it next time.

with James Ellis
Hidden 21/Oct/12 2nd
Norman_P_W 21/Oct/12 -
markfromstoke 21/Oct/12 -
with Norman
Monkey_Alan 21/Oct/12 Lead rpt
mattparratt 12/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Jim Malo 29/Sep/12 Lead
with Putt
BenL 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
mike.rigby 16/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Hard for its grade. Very pumpy.

with Rob Edwards
Sophie Nunn 11/Sep/12 Lead rpt
with Scott, Brian
brian watson 11/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 11/Sep/12 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR dog
tradguy 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Mark Hazell, philippa wiffen
Jordan17 03/Sep/12 Lead
jopayne1988 ?/Sep/12 -
Monkey_Alan 28/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with John Knight, Sophie Harbour
Graham Westbrook 17/Aug/12 Lead β
AndyCook 05/Aug/12 Lead
rustyfishhook 02/Aug/12 Lead dog

Strong upper body moves, holds are where you want them, nice!

martin one 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Lucy
Montecore 22/Jul/12 Lead dog

only 1 rest this time...

with Susan Kennedy
TiffTiff 01/Jul/12 Lead β
with Sophie
Nexonen 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Tiff, Sophie, Heather
Sophie Nunn 01/Jul/12 Lead rpt
with Tiff
sam_craddock 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
caroline256 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Tom B
RamblingRyan 17/Jun/12 TR
with Steve, Danny, Martin, Col
birthers 17/Jun/12 Lead β
Sophie Nunn 16/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Scott
Hidden 16/Jun/12 2nd
Albachoss 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Definitely fluttery at the top with skinny feet in a bunched position. Very nice moves.

Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead dog
gibsond 29/May/12 Lead rpt
Monkey_Alan 29/May/12 Lead rpt
jon_gill1 07/May/12 Lead O/S
MarkCunnington 07/May/12 Lead O/S
Montecore 21/Apr/12 Lead dog

Bastard steep.

BenLarby 21/Apr/12 2nd
tomshanti 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S

awkward!tough for a warm up

Monkey_Alan 15/Apr/12 Lead dog

Got hands wrong, had to take a rest to sort them out.

Big Lee 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Felt pretty sketchy all the way up. Knocked a couple of small blocks off the route.

with Mick
chalk bunny ?/Apr/12 Lead dog
with ben l
E30Adam 31/Mar/12 TR O/S
with Simon Chadney, Ben Service
RamblingRyan 11/Mar/12 TR
with Gaelle, Steve, Sam, Nick, Col
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/12 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Feb/12 Lead rpt
mishtu 22/Jan/12 Lead
Bea 22/Jan/12 2nd
with Mishtu
cathymiller 22/Jan/12 Lead dog
with krista
Hidden ??/2012 TR dog
Hidden ??/2012 2nd
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Felix Ottey ??/2012 Lead O/S
RamblingRyan 27/Nov/11 TR
with Nick, Emma, Danny, Col
trevor macalonan 20/Nov/11 Lead dnf
with Richy
Montse Shelb 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Nathan
montymoo 10/Aug/11 Lead
with Gareth
Gareth 10/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Mark
pelvoux 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Jon
tobydunford 27/Jul/11 Lead β
with Martyn Eales
brian watson 08/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with anne marie sheppard
Tony Adshead 01/May/11 TR O/S
Elvis Nipples Ells 01/May/11 TR dnf

Tricky mid point section, keep and eye out for the left hand move next time.

rev01ver 01/May/11 TR dog
with Tony Adshead
Nathan Adshead 01/May/11 Lead RP
Ducks Rock 24/Apr/11 TR
with Gemma
Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
el_monty 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Si
Hidden 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Shona H 28/Mar/11 Lead β
with Kirsty
AlexD 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with Darren
Linc ??/2011 Lead O/S
nick jeans ??/2011 Lead
clipskipper 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Like the man says, mostly solid and a good route at the grade

with Sue Hazel
Indy Nile 09/Oct/10 TR dog
with Mark James, Frodo Stickel
uncontrollable 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S

lovely climb and the rock is way more solid than it looks!

with Des, Mark J
tobydunford 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Vince 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with John Percy
Monkey_Alan 26/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Aug/10 Lead dog
gibsond 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Karensa Lawrie, Alan Blanchflower
Monkey_Alan 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Darrell Gibson, Karensa Lawrie
Luky 24/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Dodgey stuff, 3rd bolt not easy placement, reckon there's another way around it.

Sami Mandeel 01/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Paul
Danh89 20/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nath_casper ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Gerald
sdmi123 07/Mar/10 Lead
with Jonny Hurst, Barry Gilfillian
LeahJamie ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Mark Hathaway
LukeyG ??/2010 Lead
Ducks Rock ??/2010 Lead β
crispygts ??/2010 -
marcduhig 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Did not flow

with Andrew
Ade7 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Liz
Hidden 15/Aug/09 Lead RP
Giles Davis 03/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Indy Nile 05/Jul/09 Lead
Monkey_Alan 05/Jul/09 Lead O/S
DeclanMurphy 01/Jul/09 Lead O/S

I've come to love this route :) feels exposed and dangerous (it's not really - all the bolts are safe to make) This has become one of my favourite warm-up routes on the west quarry.

with Jo Tilley
chalk bunny ?/Jul/09 TR O/S
with Sarah Kaye
jamie ward 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Jenny
Fatclimber 30/May/09 Lead

Stopped by the third bolt to have a good inspect of the rock. It is more sound than it seems.

with Kwan
DeclanMurphy 10/May/09 Lead O/S

One year later and I lead this one clean :) Not too difficult but still with plenty of opportunity to pull some nice moves.

with Francesco
KarlH 10/May/09 Lead O/S

Not as loose as it looks. Nice climb, defo a 5+.

with Phil, Matt L & Neil
MarkRyder 19/Apr/09 Lead RP
with Ashley
tavarua 05/Apr/09 Lead dnf
with Colin Cook
MontyH 21/Feb/09 TR
with Brian
Hidden 17/Feb/09 Lead dnf
Shona H 31/Jan/09 Lead

Bolts a bit dodgy at top.

with Charlie Moore
Alex More ??/2009 Lead
londondavid ??/2009 -
londondavid ??/2009 -
LukeyG ??/2009 Lead
jamie ward 18/Jun/08 Lead RP

Had to stop a couple of times to inspect rock, More solid than it looks.

DeclanMurphy 18/Jun/08 TR dnf

If this is the one I'm thinking of then I found it dodgy as fuck. Lots of potential cascading rocks. Got half-way up and thought "y'know, I don't really trust these rocks"

with Jamie
nick hawkins ?/Jun/08 2nd RP
with matt
Hidden 24/Mar/08 Lead O/S
Tommy Harris ?/Mar/08 Lead O/S

make sure balayer wears a helmet

lazza ?/Feb/08 Lead
with Gareth
Gareth ?/Feb/08 2nd
Peter Swift ??/2008 TR dog
with tim
Peter Swift ??/2008 TR dog
with tim
Hidden 30/Aug/07 Lead O/S
trev_f 29/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Martin
tom_wim 27/Jul/07 Lead RP

Some loose bits of small rock but nothing major, will get better with more traffic, a nice climb.

The Jazz Butcher 03/Jul/07 Lead O/S
aged_ape ?/May/07 Lead O/S
tobydunford 03/Mar/07 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/07 TR
jl 18/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Penny
pennyb 18/Nov/06 2nd
with Jon
montymoo 12/Nov/06 Lead
with Gareth
Gareth 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Mark
MontyH 14/Aug/06 Lead O/S

very loose in places,feels about 5 maybe 5+ but I found it pretty scary because of the loose rock.

with Pete Frost and Paul Milton
brian watson 01/Aug/06 Lead
Hidden 01/Aug/06 Lead β
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
Rob Kennard ??/2006 -
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High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set