100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Almost as good as its classy neighbour.
1) 5, 40m. From the tip of a block, jam up the fine crack - tricky - stepping left once, and continuing to a sloping stance.
2) 5-, 35m. Continue up the same crack, past a ledge, to a short slab. Climb the slab, then move up thin cracks in the steeper wall above, on good holds, to a good sloping stance (shared with Tromsų ekspressen).
3) 5-, 25m. Step right, then climb the right side of a prominent flake but move right to easier cracks and the top. © Rockfax

A Meyer, S Nesheim 1985

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Hidden 29/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Big Lee 13/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch. Slightly less variety than Gandalf and a little vegetated in places but still excellent.

annak 13/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lovely lovely climb

Hidden 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Maia
Hidden 26/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Clay C 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Will A
67hours 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
ecromwell 22/Aug/16 AltLd

Led p2 lovely climbing.

Graeme Hammond 21/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
mzchambers 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Mackinclimb 19/Aug/16 AltLd
with mzchambers, Connor Holdsworth
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S

Fantastic (jug - jam - jug - jam.....) and better than Gandalf especially if you do the left finish as per Tromso ekspressen

alexm198 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


Matt Harle 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
dan_o_b 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead rpt
M.Hallen 02/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch. I feel this climb follows a much cleaner line than Gandalf, but it felt quite a bit easier. Practised to be effective in the wall and on the belay stations, and felt like we did huge progress :)

with Jarl, Carolina
Tasermiut 25/Jul/16 2nd O/S
lyneux 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, P3

with Seb Pepper
payney1973 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Team of 3

bridget143 23/Jul/16 2nd

Attemped to lead P2 but only managed first 10m, psyched out!!

with Simen
leemagowan 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
ThunderBeest ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Chris Craggs 30/Jun/16 AltLd

I thought that this was better than Gandalf, more consistent, less grovelling and goes right to the top

with Colin Binks
Hidden 16/Jun/16 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Jun/16 AltLd
with Chris Calow
Hidden 05/May/16 Lead
J_Jansen ?/Sep/15 2nd β
James Rigby 18/Aug/15 2nd β

Hard start... Unusually sunny for the arctic circle.. Immaculate Granite!

with Dylan Taylor
Pippa 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Nice and fun. Great cracks on second pitch

Bob Peters 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S

'If I never see an "awkward groove' again, it'll be too soon'. Great climb nonetheless.

rpinto 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
tomdude ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

nice! tricky getting into start crack

with marie
jonnie3430 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Dave Rumney 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

tough start

with Tanya Milner
PhilipO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
JoelO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Anne
Timothy Miller 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/14 -
John Nuttall 05/Jun/14 Lead
with Sharon
duncana 02/Sep/13 AltLd

Good route although first jamming crack off the boulder is fierce for first thing in the morning. I led the middle pitch

with Pippa Archer
Stefan_Morris 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with jenny
Jen 'Banksy' Banks ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Stefan
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
mes32 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S


with Aeron
Hidden 15/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ferdia 13/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy
Hidden 11/Jun/13 2nd
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I lead both pitches (you can string P1 and P2 together easily). Really good

with Lindsay
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

In the damp. Clare lead the 1st pitch, I lead the 2nd pitch. V. good.

with Clare Erskine
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
AliMackenzie 09/May/13 AltLd
with Ken
Steven Andrews 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great climbing just keeps on coming.

with Delphine
RM199 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/12 AltLd
Graceful ?/Aug/12 -
Maria Lasonen-Aarnio 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ville
Hidden 16/Jul/12 AltLd
Batt 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead odd pitches

Hoyes 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
mtempest 09/Jul/12 AltLd
Dan Lane 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P2. Some interesting climbing but pitch lengths are completely wrong in Rockfax! It's more like 30m, 45m, 25m.

cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
victim of mathematics 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Jamtastic.

climbingpixie 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd
Leelogs 27/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
chris_B 20/Jul/11 Lead
louby 20/Jul/11 2nd
Ken Taylor 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod
Conan 10/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor
Anna_wells ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ali Clarke
cat22 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
JenDurden 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2

with BenCorbey, Max
Hidden 14/Jun/11 AltLd RP
John Tanner 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1&3

mrstarwarsman 05/Jun/11 AltLd
Snecos ??/2011 -
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd
Danhan 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead
bridget143 06/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

Small foot skate P1...

with Mikkel
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Andrew1 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Andrew1 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hulda 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
mattcyp88 05/Jul/10 Lead

One good pitch but them pretty poor. So many ledges.

with Thomas Van Boeckel
cem 19/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Led p2

with Dave Amos
Pete Nugent 17/Jun/10 AltLd

led p 1 & 3. No other routes done that day as it rained for next 24 hours.

with Chris Vernon
Hidden ??/2010 -
SGD 25/Aug/09 AltLd

I lead P1 and 3

with Angelika Renner
naine 25/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with SGD
John Roe 03/Aug/09 AltLd

Led 1st & 3rd pitch

with Steve Wilcox
joeydurkin 02/Aug/09 AltLd
with Dave Gleave
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Matt Kemp
HIGHTOWER 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with The Barron
Andy Chubb 13/Jul/09 AltLd

Great route. Better than Gandalf. More natural line

with Guy Hustinx
Blisco 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Skan
Hidden 07/Jul/09 2nd
manwithacam 07/Jul/09 Lead

Good stuff. First crack is the crux for me

with Sarah
chiverstom 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3

with Dave Turner
brockers ?/Jul/09 AltLd
AJ007 ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
tuukka 09/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Hanna
cali1001 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jocke
Alasdair Fulton 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 04/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Claire S-J ?/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 16/Jul/08 AltLd
Ing 08/Jul/08 AltLd
with Stevie G & James
oor wullie ?/Jul/08 -
with Risto kalampa
9fingerjon ?/Jul/08 AltLd
Alan James - UKC and UKH 21/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Tim W 16/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch

Hidden 01/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Whitt ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Ian
Luuuuuke ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with ian, whitt
Hidden 09/Aug/06 2nd β
cem 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & 3

RAK 17/Jul/06 AltLd
with Lauri
Oliver Sherman ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Brad Jackson
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
steev ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
decs ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Katie
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

On Honeymoon.

Bad Mongo ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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