100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Thought by some to be better than its classy neighbour, offering more consistent climbing and no thrutchy wide bits.
1) N5, 40m. From the tip of a block, jam up the fine crack - tricky - stepping left once, and continuing to a sloping stance.
2) N5-, 40m. Continue up the same crack-line, passing a trickier section where the crack splits. Continue up thin cracks in the steeper wall above, on good holds, to a good sloping stance (shared with Tromsø ekspressen).
3) N5-, 25m. Step right, then access the right-hand side of a prominent flake, but move right to easier cracks and the top. © Rockfax

A Meyer, S Nesheim 1985

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Tjable65 09/Sep/17 -
with Svein-Are Andreassen
Katherine Ross 19/Aug/17 2nd dog

Aided my way up the initial jamming crack (as did James - neither of us are much good at jamming!). Nice climb after that.

Hidden 09/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 02/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Nono
Nono 02/Aug/17 2nd
Kirill 11/Jul/17 AltLd
with Ilia
Ilia Nadyrbayev 11/Jul/17 AltLd
Rob Davies 02/Jul/17 AltLd

Cold day. Start is up obvious crack, not T-shaped cracks on L as shown in Rockfax. VS 4c 4a/b 4a.

with Angus McLean
Gemmazrobo ?/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Ed
harold walmsley 30/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Led p1 and 3

with Rick Newcombe
Hidden 26/Jun/17 AltLd
DAL 09/Jun/17 Lead
dan_waterston 09/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Tony McPhillips
Hidden 29/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Big Lee 13/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch. Slightly less variety than Gandalf and a little vegetated in places but still excellent.

annak 13/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Lovely lovely climb

Hidden 29/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Jim Slater 26/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Maia
Hidden 26/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
67hours 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


Clay C 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Will A
ecromwell 22/Aug/16 AltLd

Led p2 lovely climbing.

Bradbury 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Me P1, GH P2. Better than Gandalf

Graeme Hammond 21/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Mackinclimb 19/Aug/16 AltLd
with mzchambers, Connor Holdsworth
mzchambers 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/16 Solo O/S

Fantastic (jug - jam - jug - jam.....) and better than Gandalf especially if you do the left finish as per Tromso ekspressen

alexm198 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


Matt Harle 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
dan_o_b 07/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/16 Lead rpt
M.Hallen 02/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead 2nd pitch. I feel this climb follows a much cleaner line than Gandalf, but it felt quite a bit easier. Practised to be effective in the wall and on the belay stations, and felt like we did huge progress :)

with Jarl, Carolina
Tasermiut 25/Jul/16 2nd O/S
lyneux 25/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, P3

with Seb Pepper
bridget143 23/Jul/16 2nd

Attemped to lead P2 but only managed first 10m, psyched out!!

with Simen
payney1973 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Team of 3

leemagowan 21/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 15/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
ThunderBeest ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Chris Craggs 30/Jun/16 AltLd

I thought that this was better than Gandalf, more consistent, less grovelling and goes right to the top

with Colin Binks
Alex Thomson 16/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Russell Shanks, Jenny Hill
Hidden 16/Jun/16 AltLd
Mark Kemball 13/Jun/16 AltLd
with Chris Calow
Hidden 05/May/16 Lead
J_Jansen ?/Sep/15 2nd β
James Rigby 18/Aug/15 2nd β

Hard start... Unusually sunny for the arctic circle.. Immaculate Granite!

with Dylan Taylor
Pippa 02/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Nice and fun. Great cracks on second pitch

Bob Peters 29/Jul/15 Lead O/S

'If I never see an "awkward groove' again, it'll be too soon'. Great climb nonetheless.

rpinto 11/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
tomdude ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

nice! tricky getting into start crack

with marie
jonnie3430 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Dave Rumney 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

tough start

with Tanya Milner
JoelO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Anne
PhilipO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
Timothy Miller 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
alan1234 03/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Eirik Nordli
ad111 ?/Jul/14 -
John Nuttall 05/Jun/14 Lead
with Sharon
duncana 02/Sep/13 AltLd

Good route although first jamming crack off the boulder is fierce for first thing in the morning. I led the middle pitch

with Pippa Archer
Stefan_Morris 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with jenny
Jen 'Banksy' Banks ?/Aug/13 AltLd
with Stefan
mes32 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S


with Aeron
Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ferdia 13/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy Pedder
Hidden 11/Jun/13 2nd
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I lead both pitches (you can string P1 and P2 together easily). Really good

with Lindsay
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

In the damp. Clare lead the 1st pitch, I lead the 2nd pitch. V. good.

with Clare Erskine
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
AliMackenzie 09/May/13 AltLd
with Ken
Steven Andrews 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Great climbing just keeps on coming.

with Delphine
RM199 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 02/Aug/12 AltLd
Graceful ?/Aug/12 -
Maria Lasonen-Aarnio 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Ville
Hidden 16/Jul/12 AltLd
Batt 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Lead odd pitches

Hoyes 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Dan Lane 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P2. Some interesting climbing but pitch lengths are completely wrong in Rockfax! It's more like 30m, 45m, 25m.

mtempest 09/Jul/12 AltLd
cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
climbingpixie 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd
Leelogs 27/Jun/12 AltLd
victim of mathematics 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Jamtastic.

Hidden 25/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd
chris_B 20/Jul/11 Lead
louby 20/Jul/11 2nd
Conan 10/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod
Anna_wells ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ali Clarke
cat22 25/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 14/Jun/11 AltLd RP
JenDurden 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2

with BenCorbey, Max
John Tanner 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P1&3

mrstarwarsman 05/Jun/11 AltLd
Snecos ??/2011 -
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd
Danhan 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead
bridget143 06/Aug/10 AltLd rpt

Small foot skate P1...

with Mikkel
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Andrew1 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Andrew1 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Andrew1 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hulda 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Hidden 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
mattcyp88 05/Jul/10 Lead

One good pitch but them pretty poor. So many ledges.

with Thomas Van Boeckel
cem 19/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Led p2

with Dave Amos
Pete Nugent 17/Jun/10 AltLd

led p 1 & 3. No other routes done that day as it rained for next 24 hours.

with Chris Vernon
Hidden ??/2010 -
naine 25/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with SGD
SGD 25/Aug/09 AltLd

I lead P1 and 3

with Angelika Renner
John Roe 03/Aug/09 AltLd

Led 1st & 3rd pitch

with Steve Wilcox
joeydurkin 02/Aug/09 AltLd
with Dave Gleave
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 20/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with The Barron
Andy Chubb 13/Jul/09 AltLd

Great route. Better than Gandalf. More natural line

with Guy Hustinx
Blisco 12/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Peter Skan
Hidden 07/Jul/09 2nd
manwithacam 07/Jul/09 Lead

Good stuff. First crack is the crux for me

with Sarah
chiverstom 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3

with Dave Turner
brockers ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd
AJ007 ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
tuukka 09/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Hanna
cali1001 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jocke
Alasdair Fulton 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 31/May/09 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 04/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Claire S-J ?/Aug/08 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Jul/08 AltLd
Ing 08/Jul/08 AltLd
with Stevie G & James
9fingerjon ?/Jul/08 AltLd
oor wullie ?/Jul/08 -
with Risto kalampa
Alan James - UKC and UKH 21/Jun/08 AltLd
Tim W 16/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead second pitch

Hidden 16/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Luuuuuke ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with ian, whitt
Whitt ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Ian
Hidden 09/Aug/06 2nd β
RAK 17/Jul/06 AltLd
with Lauri
cem 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led p 1 & 3

Oliver Sherman ?/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
with Brad Jackson
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
decs ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Katie
steev ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

On Honeymoon.

Bad Mongo ?/Aug/04 AltLd
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
8 users have this on their wishlist
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
High n5
Mid n5
Low n5
High n5-
Mid n5-
Low n5-
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set