Rockfax Description
The narrow-looking gap between Lost Gandalf and Gollum has some decent climbing.
1) N5+, 40m. Follow cracks to the belay on Gollum,
2) N5+, 40m. Trend left up unlikely looking ground to a groove and then a hand-crack. Choose a finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
As mentioned on the 'update climb' page but not the actual page of the climb the routes Smeagol and Gollum are not labelled correctly.
Pitch 1 update. Smeagol starts from a small block up to the base of an obvious T shaped crack. The crack is layed back on the left but flaring on right. Above mid level the crack is too shallow to finger jam. The transition to the right side of the a top of the T crack is obviously very off balance and is a shallow crimp ( microcam ) or blind can placement at apex of vertical.
FA. Jonas Dahlstrup, Simon Svendsen 2008 15/Jun/2008.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Claire Carpenter | 29 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Some of it is excellent and varied climbing, some tenuous, some very bold, other places have good gear. A really good clean out of various cracks would make a massive difference. First pitch is 30m to belay and 2nd pitch is 57m to a protectable anchor station. 0-2 stars depending on where you are on the route. HVS 5a though the bold first crux move above the T is ‘better’ for tall people! Otherwise it’s defo 5b! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Some of it is excellent and varied climbing, some tenuous, some very bold, other places have good gear. A really good clean out of various cracks would make a massive difference. First pitch is 30m to belay and 2nd pitch is 57m to a protectable anchor station. 0-2 stars depending on where you are on the route. HVS 5a though the bold first crux move above the T is ‘better’ for tall people! Otherwise it’s defo 5b! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gandalf
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Child's Play
Grade: n5+ ***
(Djupfjord)