100m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been plenty of discussion about the star rating of this climb - you will have to do it so you can join in!
1) N5, 40m. Start up a crack with a tree in it and climb straight through a small overhang, then up the arete on the right using a finger-crack. Belay on a ledge just below the Gandalf overhang. Many teams struggle up the grassy groove round to the right - this IS NOT the route, so get back on the proper line now!
2) N6-, 25m. Climb the right-hand crack directly through the Gandalf overhang, then continue up the vertical jamming crack in the steep headwall above to a tiny stance.
3) N6-, 35m. Continue up finger-cracks in orange rock keeping just right of the Eagle's Nest belay on Gandalf. Finish up a groove and hand-crack right of Gandalf's final section. © Rockfax

FA. (P1) T Enevold, T Seines 1993, (The main crack of P2) S & H

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Hidden 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 31/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Nono
Nono 31/Jul/17 2nd
Kirill 11/Jul/17 Lead
with Ilia
Ilia Nadyrbayev 11/Jul/17 2nd
harold walmsley 09/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2

with Rick Newcombe
Rob Davies 04/Jul/17 2nd

P1 was good, and seemed no easier than P2 or P3, but it was cold and spitting with rain. HVS 5a 5a/b 5a.

with Angus McLean
Hidden 26/Jun/17 AltLd
dan_waterston 12/Jun/17 2nd O/S
with Tony McPhillips
Hidden 29/Sep/16 Lead O/S
Dave Rumney 28/Sep/16 Lead
with Tanya Milner
mzchambers 01/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Wet crack and rain on the top pitch

Mackinclimb 01/Sep/16 AltLd
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
67hours 24/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


Clay C 24/Aug/16 AltLd

Led P2 and P3 - did part of Gandolf P2 and then traversed back right to the belay

with Will A
Hidden 19/Aug/16 AltLd
Graeme Hammond 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Brilliant, led p1 & 2

Bradbury 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

GH P1 & P2, Me P3

dan_o_b 13/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2

Hidden 08/Aug/16 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Aug/16 2nd O/S
M.Hallen 05/Aug/16 AltLd

Lead P2. Did it by laybacking instead of jamming in the start, but fell twice before I could do it. Probably went the wrong way on P3, as it was way easier than 6-.

with Carolina, Jarl
Hidden 16/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
ThunderBeest ?/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/Jun/16 AltLd
Alex Thomson 24/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Pippa 19/Jul/15 AltLd

In the rain, tra la la la la

jonnie3430 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Dave Rumney 07/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

a bit to close to Gandalf to be a 3 star route, for me. Bottom pitch is excellent though.

with Tanya Milner
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
TommyKips ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
PhilipO ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 15/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
ad111 ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
duncana 02/Sep/13 2nd

Great route, maybe I could have led first pitch. Pleased to get up the second pitch crack ok

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 23/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
will_benfold 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1,3

with Chris Bull
chrisallan 16/Jul/13 -

1, 3.

cameron_hall 16/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 - challenging steep jamming.

ferdia 16/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Clare Muir
James Oswald ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I lead P1 and P3. P1 is really cool, pulling over the bulge is much easier than it looks. The top pitch up the technical corner is superb

with Rozzy
klipkabouter ?/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with John Vous
Batt 10/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hoyes 09/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 27/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Entering the undercut crack requires faith, but isn't as bad as it looks. Another great route.

with Simon
Hidden 26/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
louby 26/Jul/11 2nd
chris_B 26/Jul/11 Lead O/S

nearly fluffed the jamming crack on pitch 2

Hidden 15/Jul/11 2nd
Conan 10/Jul/11 AltLd

Found pitch 2 the hardest but that's because I can't jam!

with Ian Bradley, Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 10/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ian Bradley, Conan Harrod
Anna_wells ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ali Clarke
cat22 25/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
John Tanner 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led P2. Ended up going too high, so did crux of P3 also. If you had 60m ropes could probably do it in two pitches.

with Ben Corbey
Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd
Danhan 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Lead
Andrew1 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
Hulda 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Hidden 24/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
cem 19/Jun/10 AltLd rpt

Led p 1 & 3

with Dave Amos
Ztephan ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Marius
Hidden ??/2010 -
naine 27/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with SGD
SGD 27/Aug/09 AltLd

I lead P2, Geli did P1 and 3 lovely route

with Angelika Renner
Hidden 08/Aug/09 AltLd
John Roe 08/Aug/09 AltLd

100m HVS 5a, led pitch 2

with Rob Patchett
joeydurkin 02/Aug/09 2nd
with Dave Gleave
centurion05 19/Jul/09 AltLd
with patch
Hidden 19/Jul/09 AltLd
chiverstom 04/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitch 2. More jamming!

with Dave Turner
brockers ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd
dan gibson 27/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with john singleton
tuukka 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Hanna
Alasdair Fulton 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 28/May/09 AltLd O/S
Different Steve 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Hidden 25/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Tim W 24/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch

Hidden 24/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
yuha ?/Aug/07 AltLd
with Matt
Chad123 30/Jul/07 AltLd O/S

Nice steep HVS jamming on crux, rest is pleasant easier climbing.

with Jo
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
Luuuuuke ?/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with ian, whitt
Whitt ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Luke, Ian
Hidden 09/Aug/06 2nd β
RAK 18/Jul/06 AltLd
with Lauri
cem 17/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
decs ?/Jun/06 AltLd
with Steve
steev ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
TobyA 03/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with TobyFK
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with Andy Hyslop
8 users have this on their wishlist
High n6
Mid n6
Low n6
High n6-
Mid n6-
Low n6-
High n5+
Mid n5+
Low n5+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set