The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
Good climbing that has been recleaned in recent times. Start at a hole in the rock at 1m.
1) 5b, 15m. Head up from the hole to a crack and at 5m move rightwards on good holds to two thin cracks. Take the thin cracks up the wall to a belay at the faultline.
2) 5b, 28m. Move up right to the end of an overhang. Pull past the overhang and then move left to a groove that is climbed on its right-hand side to reach easier ground and the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5b, 5b
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Cave Hole)