235m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
(Only Bilberries) A pure classic and, despite its distance from the road, it is very popular. The name is Norwegian for a task of no great difficulty; obviously it refers to the climb, not the walk in.

1) N4, 26m. Start up a small slab and move up to a shallow left-facing corner. Climb this, or a thin finger-crack on the right, to reach a good ledge at the base of a main crack.
2) N5-, 34m. Finger and hand jam up the fantastic crack above to a small belay stance where the angle of the rock lessens. Cams helpful at the belay.
3) N5-, 32m. Continue up the V-groove, which steepens and becomes increasingly awkward. When the crack inside the groove becomes too thin, step out right around the arete into another crack. Climb up this to a good belay ledge at flakes.
4) N5-, 28m. Layback the flake wedged inside the V-groove above until you reach several loose chockstones. Now step delicately to the right around the corner into a hidden crack and climb this to more flakes and another good stance.
5) N5-, 40m. Continue up the single, sustained crack system splitting the upper slab - elegant finger and hand-jamming up perfect rock. When the crack finally thins, climb to the right to a bolt and chain belay to the left of a huge flake.
6) N5-, 40m. An unlikely looking pitch with excellent climbing. Climb up and move left to pass a small roof. Step back right and follow a shallow groove and crack system more or less straight up the upper slab to a small belay stance with a two bolt belay.
7) N4-, 48m. One last pitch leads up the easier slab to reach a belay at the base of the cliff's steeper headwall. Be aware of loose rock on this pitch and the fact there are climbers below. © Rockfax

T Hansen, I Raastad 1986

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Tjable65 19/Aug -
with Ruben Andre, Katrine Kvanli
Hidden 10/Aug AltLd O/S
fuzzysheep01 25/Jul Lead O/S
with Nono
Nono 25/Jul 2nd
AngelaC 16/Jul AltLd

I led 2 and 4 Rick the rest - strong winds made it a cold outing - finished midnight and 3 other pairs were queuing to start!

harold walmsley 08/Jul AltLd

Managed to overtake a very slow team. I led even numbered pitches

with Rick Newcombe
ThunderBeest 30/Jun Lead O/S

Incredible to have such a nice line at this grade! Climbed first 5 pitches, easy to link up 1-2 and 3-4. 55 minutes climbing up, 2 hours to get down. Tried to avoid the big crack on the right side from eating the rope and get the rope stuck twice in the crack at the left.. Nice journey in midnightsun nevertheless!

with Jenny
AshJames94 12/Jun 2nd O/S
Dave Latimer 08/Jun Lead O/S
dan_waterston 08/Jun 2nd O/S
with Tony McPhillips
JonasHS 06/Jun Lead O/S
with Gry Einrem
ecromwell 23/Aug/16 AltLd

What a climb, lovely granite. Super grippy and some real splitter cracks. Had an absolute epic on the first day - led p1, p3 and p5. Rope got stuck in a crack on the way back down off p5 abseil. Nightmare. Had to leave it as no knife with us, big lesson for the both of us. Abseiled down on one half leaving gear in the gully. Returned the following day and thanks to some nice Norwegians managed to climb it first. Led p2 and p4. Rope pulled out first time when climbed above - it had got looped round a knut in the crack! Retrieved all gear in gully.

Clay C 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Ross
Graeme Hammond 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led all pitches other than p2 after Andy didn't feel great

Hidden 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
67hours 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


with Willy
Mackinclimb 21/Aug/16 AltLd
mzchambers 21/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
alexm198 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Really nice climbing on super frictiony granite. Led evens. Took 2h10 for all 7 pitches. Pitch 6 is worth doing, 7 is a little chossy. Approach is absolutely heinous.

Matt Harle 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
MysteriousCeorl 06/Aug/16 AltLd


with Ewan "Flapper"
Hidden 05/Aug/16 Lead
dan_o_b 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/16 2nd O/S
M.Hallen 30/Jul/16 AltLd

Lead p3,p5,p7. Super nice climb. Started climbing at 8am and came first. Make sure to use the new abseil chains from after p5 and down (located 10m to right of the top of p5), as the cracks eat ropes with the old ones.

with Stian
maumau 28/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
lyneux 26/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

I lead P1, P3, P5. Seb lead P2, P4. Charles was above us with Susan and gave Seb a toprope for P6. Nobody did P7.

with Charles Moreton, Seb Pepper
cem 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lead it all. A tremendous route, one of the best I've done so far this year. Unfortunately we were held up by all the parties in front of us and it was 11pm when we got back to the car.

with Susan Vittery
s.scott 26/Jul/16 -
with Lee Magowan
Tasermiut 26/Jul/16 2nd O/S
leemagowan 24/Jul/16 Lead O/S

2 X seconds, brilliant crack climbing, continue up to top rings for full abseil experience from top of climb. 4 abseils.

s.scott 21/Jul/16 -
Peter Ballantine 25/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 25/Jun/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/16 AltLd
Alex Thomson 17/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Russell Shanks, Jenny Hill
Mark Kemball 14/Jun/16 AltLd
with Chris Calow
tomballantine ?/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Peter Ballantine ??/2016 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 4

J_Jansen ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

About as good as crack climbing gets at the grade. Gets no sun, so stays cold well into the day.

Bob Peters 28/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

P4,5,6 - what a day out. First on it after rain, P6&7 a bit soggy, 6 quite scary as a result. Lots of parties below so opted not to complete loose P7. Swam in the lake on the way home. Magic day.

with Joe
rpinto 13/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/15 AltLd rpt
Paul Figg 10/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Rachel Antill
Annanor92 10/Jul/15 2nd O/S

Don't see what all the fuss is about. Didn't like it. Maybe because I don't like crack climbing.

Pippa 05/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Got up early to beat the crowds but froze in the shade all day. Felt hard for VS. Did all 7 pitches. Pitch 6 was bold. Ropes stuck on last ab but people after us freed them.

tomdude ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S

yeah, this one IS really good! miles and miles of easy jamming. must have been a line of ropes up it all day, but was nice and sociable at least.

with marie
jonnie3430 29/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Happy Wanderer 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route. Worth an early start to get there first after 1.5 hour walk in. Interesting start round the snow and traverse in from the left to lead p1. P2 a tough steep hand crack but p3 is magnificent. P4 tricky route finding and p5 another long crack that starts steep then gets too thin even for my fingers. Thank god hold just when you need it at the top. P6 with sparse protection, overlaps and wet wrinkles and p7 a slabby left rising wrinkle to looser choss at the top. Bolts and chains on top of a large boulder at the top, a few feet below the two bolts and no ab chains you see from much lower down. Ab using bolts for p7 to top of p4 but head far right (facing in) to use alternate bolts to those in the rope snagging corner below. Ab back down full route not an option unless you want to leave gear - no bolts p1-3.

with Mike D
Hidden 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
MD 18/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

An absolute classic. Led pitches 2, 4 and 6. We started slightly to the left of the normal start to avoid a snow bank. Most of the good holds on pitch 6 were soaking wet which made for an entertaining lead. Both pitches 6 and 7 are longer than the lengths recorded in the rockfax guide book. Had a comedy fall and slide descending the snow bank in rock shoes at the end of the day as did the two Swiss climbers who followed shortly after. It's quicker to approach the climb going right of the forest at the end of Djupfjord as per the pillaren route rather than the way indicated in the rockfax guide.

with Jo
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
JdotP ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Crazy Dave
Little AndyH ?/Jun/15 AltLd
PhilipO ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Alfred L
Hidden 03/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 16/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
efehr 16/Jul/14 2nd β
with Erik Johnsen, Petter Finstad, Kursintruktør
Hidden 09/Jul/14 AltLd
alan1234 04/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Aom Sai, Eirik Nordli
Hidden 23/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
John Nuttall 06/Jun/14 Lead
with Sharon
Hidden ?/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
duncana 31/Aug/13 AltLd

Great climbing although a bit samey, jamming up slabs. I led 1/3/5/7

with Pippa Archer
Hidden 15/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
will_benfold 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P3,6

with Jacob Davies, Cameron
cameron_hall 22/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1, 4, 7. Pitches 6, 7 were a bit damp.

with Jacob Davies, Will Benfold
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 19/Jul/13 AltLd rpt
mes32 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1/3/5/7. P5 was one of the most enjoyable pitches of climbing ever.

with Chris
chrisallan 17/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Merlin 11/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Intimidating for someone with a lack of jamming experience, but you soon realise how straight forward it is when you find the crack takes cam after cam after cam, and the rock offers superb friction. Lead P1,3,5. Rapped off after pitch 5, as P6 looked sparsely protected. Route probably equates to VS overall.

with Dave Tait
inspiration_needed 01/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Probably the best route I have seconded. Lead first pitch. Last pitch almost 50m. Abseiled in 5 pitches, using chains to the bottom on 50m ropes.

with Mat Cooper
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 27/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
pbb081079 15/Jun/13 2nd
ferdia 13/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy Pedder
Hidden 12/Jun/13 2nd
Timo Austino ?/Jun/13 Lead
with Dave Bart
Hidden ?/Jun/13 Lead
James Oswald ??/2013 -

Lead P1,3 and 5. Dead good but would have been much better if it wasn't for the heat. Very sore feet making the same jamming move time and time again. Didn't bother with P6 and p7

RM199 20/Aug/12 AltLd
Steven Andrews 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Quite an introducion to Lofoten rock. Felt hard but probably the result of not climbing for 6 weeks and then coming to Lofoten!

with Delphine
Hidden 14/Aug/12 Lead
Graceful ?/Aug/12 -
Coel Hellier 27/Jul/12 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 19/Jul/12 AltLd
with Simon Tiplady
Batt 12/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Lead odd pitches. Stopped after P5 since not enjoying it and the others abb'd off, should have done one more pitch really

Hoyes 11/Jul/12 AltLd dnf

Abseiled off after pitch 5.

Dan Lane 11/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

P1 and 3. we abbed off after P5 because the climbing gets less good and there were three VERY slow parties infront which we didn't want to be waiting behind on the abseils. I don't really enjoy jamming but i loved it!

mtempest 11/Jul/12 AltLd

Led P2, P4 & P5

Hidden 10/Jul/12 AltLd
JoelO ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with Elisa, Anne
cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
ColinD ?/Jul/12 AltLd
with Seth Barber
Hidden 29/Jun/12 -
climbingpixie 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, one of the best at its grade anywhere. I would challenge even the staunchest non-jammer not to enjoy crack climbing like this!

with Andy
Hidden 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Leelogs 28/Jun/12 AltLd
victim of mathematics 28/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Led P3+6. The best HS in the world. Outstanding climbing in a stunning situation. Pitch 6 is worthwhile, although confusingly not a crack, but P7 is a bit pointless.

marcusmarcus1 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

With Carl Simmons and Kev Eccles I lead odd pitches, abbed off at the top of the 5th! Superb climb!

with A Student (Work)
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Carl Simmons 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Marcus Lead Pitches 1, 3 & 5 while I lead pitches 2, 4 & 6.The route was fairly easy apart from the initial crack climb at pitch There was a slight issue with the Initially Abseil back down to start of Pitch 6 to avoid ropes being eaten by the cracks, then directly of to the right of the actual climb to find another abseil point which is slightly out of view. 55m walk and same out...

with Marcus Ross, Kev Eccles
ashsleight 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 1,2 and 4, Glen did 3,5 and 6, we didn't bother with the last pitch as the group ahead said it wasn't very good so we abbed off. There is a new ab line to the right of the one shown in the book to avoid the common rope eating crack. Awesome route!!!

Zoomer 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb with superb protection. 5th pitch is one of the best I've ever climbed...anywhere! 6 th pitch damp but very good.

Hidden 14/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jun/12 AltLd rpt
Gibson27 ?/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Amazing jamming the whole route. If going out get this done either early in the day to avoid queues or late in the date and get sunlight.

chris_B 17/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
louby 17/Jul/11 AltLd
Ken Taylor 16/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent route. We did all 7 pitches and found top 2 worhwhile. Only just managed with 50m ropes.

with John Hollingworth, Ian Bradley
Conan 13/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Superb easy jamming route. All 7 pitches are quality!

with Paul Farish
Hidden 13/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 10/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
Anna_wells ?/Jul/11 AltLd
with Ali Clarke
cat22 30/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
JenDurden 15/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead even-numbered pitches. Pitch 6 has little protection. Finished in the midnight sun. Awesome!

with Max
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
John Tanner 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

I led 'even' pitches

mrstarwarsman 06/Jun/11 AltLd
Derek Ryden ?/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

It may be easy but this is a contender for the best route in the world.

with Glynne Andrew
Snecos ??/2011 -
bridget143 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
tobydunford 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Danhan 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mostyn, Nick
Hidden 08/Aug/10 Lead
Hulda 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andi
Andrew1 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Hulda
mattcyp88 16/Jul/10 Lead dnf

Impossible. Too many people on it 24 hours a day.

with Harry Martin, Thomas Van Boeckel, Ian
Hidden 13/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 09/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
Pete Nugent 20/Jun/10 AltLd

had rained overnight, set off from carpark about 15.00 and started route about 17.00 Got stuck behind a slow moving Swedish team and got back to the carpark about 23.30. Excellent route despite the delays. Celebrtaed with a few beers at the NNKK bar which closed at 01.00!

with Chris Vernon
tompercy ?/Jun/10 Lead
with Kat Pratschke
Hidden ??/2010 -
naine 26/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with SGD
SGD 26/Aug/09 AltLd

I lead Odd pitches, Geli lead the evens

with Angelika Renner
joeydurkin 10/Aug/09 AltLd
with Marshall, Rad
Dr Caterpillar 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

led pitches 2,4,6. Had to reclimb pitch 5 due to stuck ropes, awesome route, a piece of cake

John Roe 03/Aug/09 AltLd

Excellent climb, went early to avoid crouds and the sun

with Steve Wilcox
Graham Westbrook ?/Aug/09 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Aug/09 AltLd
with Henry
Theeni ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
brockers 22/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

very well protected fun climbing. The last two pitches, which many seem to miss out, are actually excellent although not in the same style as the rest of the route. Overall a classic Severe. Well worth it!

Hidden 22/Jul/09 AltLd
richardlong78 20/Jul/09 Lead
with Martin Coleman
Roch 20/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
Andy Chubb 11/Jul/09 AltLd

Excellent route, fantastic climbing at MVS, very protectable, except for a few moves at the start of the 6th pitch through the overlap. 7 pitches up, 5 abs down, all from bolted anchors. First 3 abs are down the line of the route, and then you drop into the black arch for the last 2 abs. Strongly recommend starting the route by 9am or after 3 pm to avoid massive queues.

with Guy Hustinx
Blisco 08/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Led p2, 4, 6. Missed out p7 as many people seem to do.

with Peter Skan
Hidden 05/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
chiverstom 03/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,5. Pitch 5 could not be better at the grade!!

with Dave Turner
Hidden 02/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Joris.Roulleau ?/Jul/09 Lead

it did very nearly eat my rope indeed

AJ007 ?/Jul/09 AltLd
Daniel Armitage 29/Jun/09 AltLd
with Charlotte Armitage
Hidden 26/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 19/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with helen gibson
tuukka 17/Jun/09 AltLd
with Hanna
Alasdair Fulton 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

"Rest Day"...

andyinglis 07/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

4 star VS. Excellent.

Henrik 05/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Maria
cali1001 ?/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with jocke
Tarquin ??/2009 -
Different Steve 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S

What a great route!

with Steve Gray & Carol Fowles
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/08 AltLd
Ing 11/Jul/08 AltLd
with Stevie G & James
RAK 09/Jul/08 AltLd

Reversed P7 and abseiled from top of P6. Repeated with Lauri 2011

with Tim R.
oor wullie 09/Jul/08 -
with Risto kalampa
9fingerjon ?/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
biggianthead 30/Jun/08 -
with T
Alan James - UKC and UKH 17/Jun/08 AltLd

Descent info in the guide is a bit wonky, but the descent is obvious once you get on it, down the top few pitches then off to the side via a belay on the black arch. The lower stances aren't bolted so you can't abseil down the route as it states.

Hidden 03/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 21/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Tim W 20/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

lead pitch 4 and 5

Hidden 02/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Mattyk 02/Aug/07 AltLd rpt

Previously led in August 2002 with Jim and Jussi, worth going back for! pitch 3 and 5 are awesome jamming cracks. Watch for getting ropes stuck on the ab! 1st time in 2002 got them stuck in the 1st ab (in the offwidth) and this time got stuck after the 2nd ab in a crack.. had to jug up the ropes for 60m to free them :(

with Ali K
Hidden 09/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
stack_attack ?/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/06 AltLd
dave o ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Julia H
Hidden ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
decs ?/Jun/06 AltLd dnf

started raining on 3rd pitch

with Steve
graniterocks ?/Jun/06 -
Fredrik Nyberg 05/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Elin Eriksson
alan moore ?/Jul/05 -

On Honeymoon. Excellent route. HS 4b.

Bad Mongo ?/Jul/05 AltLd
Hidden 15/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Jody ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
Erkke ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Anders, Jody
Jim Brooke ??/2004 AltLd
with James Latham
frotveit 20/Jul/03 AltLd

With Lisa

with Lisa
chrishedgehog 11/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

I think the crag may have another name - Pillaren? Fabulous crag, reminiscent of Glacier Point Apron in Yosemite

with Clare Wilkie
agtoni ??/2003 AltLd
with Toni L
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC 26/Jun/02 AltLd O/S
with Andy Hyslop
TobyA 11/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Heidi, Elina
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High n5
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High n5-
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High n4+
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Low n4+
Votes cast 33
Votes cast 46
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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