Route has suffered a major rockfall. Grade of an ascent in current conditions unknown.

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Cold Climbs, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Cold Climbs (slimmed down)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 10 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Robertgiddy 6 Mar, 2016 Lead What a pitch! Perhaps the best ice pitch I've done! Good conditions everywhere apart from the crux at the top of P2 which didn't have great ice and was buried under crud which required strenuous clearing - so a scary finish! The gully above was good too (better than Polyphemus in my opinion). Good rock belays but buried and usually 5m beyond the end of the rope, no rock runners today. Big cornice outflanked by the ridge on the left. With Emma on the GUMC Ballater meet.
What a pitch! Perhaps the best ice pitch I've done! Good conditions everywhere apart from the crux at the top of P2 which didn't have great ice and was buried under crud which required strenuous clearing - so a scary finish! The gully above was good too (better than Polyphemus in my opinion). Good rock belays but buried and usually 5m beyond the end of the rope, no rock runners today. Big cornice outflanked by the ridge on the left. With Emma on the GUMC Ballater meet.
ESmith 6 Mar, 2016 2nd
AmyG 15 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Robin Clothier 15 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with AmyG
with AmyG
nickb1 14 Feb, 2015 - First ever winter route... Was okay.
First ever winter route... Was okay.
Hidden 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd
SWalls 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd
Roberttaylor 14 Feb, 2015 Lead O/S MFW http://www.bbc.co.uk/staticarchive/96d6c15225123c3ac1c43048be565f7ae4e1a090.jpg
with nickb1
MFW http://www.bbc.co.uk/staticarchive/96d6c15225123c3ac1c43048be565f7ae4e1a090.jpg
with nickb1
BallsOfSteel 14 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Awesome.....just Awesome. Led P1. P2 is phenomenal!
Awesome.....just Awesome. Led P1. P2 is phenomenal!
michael83 13 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S great 2 pitches of ice, easy route to follow from there! the ice is probably worth grade VI but was already pretty hooked out when we climbed it. I don't think i swung my tools more than a handful of times on pitch 2.
with Mark020
great 2 pitches of ice, easy route to follow from there! the ice is probably worth grade VI but was already pretty hooked out when we climbed it. I don't think i swung my tools more than a handful of times on pitch 2.
with Mark020
Hidden 13 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
sgl 12 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with tebs
with tebs
peter.herd 11 Feb, 2015 AltLd outrageously good ****. did polyphemus same day.
with Steven A
outrageously good ****. did polyphemus same day.
with Steven A
Steven Andrews 11 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Outrageous. Climbing around grade V but the line is almost impossible to believe, amongst the vast slabs of the rockfall scar. Has to be one of the most amazing routes in Scotland.
with Pete
Outrageous. Climbing around grade V but the line is almost impossible to believe, amongst the vast slabs of the rockfall scar. Has to be one of the most amazing routes in Scotland.
with Pete
Captain Solo 8 Feb, 2015 AltLd With direct start VI,5? Felt quite sustained but all the ice was there. Top pitch no pushover either.
with Heike
With direct start VI,5? Felt quite sustained but all the ice was there. Top pitch no pushover either.
with Heike
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
simon_D 19 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S A magic day out...a long tongue of Ice extends down the clean slab, great weather, great climbing, lochnagar is a special place indeed! The top bulge of the 2nd pitch is easily one of the finest ice pitches in Scotland..
with Ross, Dunners
A magic day out...a long tongue of Ice extends down the clean slab, great weather, great climbing, lochnagar is a special place indeed! The top bulge of the 2nd pitch is easily one of the finest ice pitches in Scotland..
with Ross, Dunners
Hidden 19 Feb, 2012 2nd O/S
James Dunn 19 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S Totally awesome day! Best ice route I've done...anywhere! 2nd pitch is mega and, as below, no where near as steep as it appears from below. Belay at the obvious platform about 30m up the corner. A full 60m pitch then takes you to the next belay in the gully (rhs, tat equipped).
Totally awesome day! Best ice route I've done...anywhere! 2nd pitch is mega and, as below, no where near as steep as it appears from below. Belay at the obvious platform about 30m up the corner. A full 60m pitch then takes you to the next belay in the gully (rhs, tat equipped).
Hidden 12 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Feb, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Andrew Sloan 11 Mar, 2011 AltLd dnf First 70m very tough and unrelenting....looks nothing like pictures in 'Cold climbs', there is no chimney any more.All the belays were poor. Tried to finish up groove to right of rock buttress; conditions awful, soft snow on rock slabs. Eventually, about 50m from top, decided to ab off route....scarey.Very serious route, would be significantly easier if neve up high.
with Steve Grove
First 70m very tough and unrelenting....looks nothing like pictures in 'Cold climbs', there is no chimney any more.All the belays were poor. Tried to finish up groove to right of rock buttress; conditions awful, soft snow on rock slabs. Eventually, about 50m from top, decided to ab off route....scarey.Very serious route, would be significantly easier if neve up high.
with Steve Grove
Smelly Fox 11 Mar, 2011 AltLd dnf Turned back on the dirct start after Stu took a fall on the second pitch. Gutted.
Turned back on the dirct start after Stu took a fall on the second pitch. Gutted.
s kennedy 11 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf Tris's crux monkey burnt out at the final bulge, lowered off
with tris fox
Tris's crux monkey burnt out at the final bulge, lowered off
with tris fox
Chad123 6 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Amazing route, one of the best I've done in Scotland - looks impossible but much better ice than it appears and not that steep, just rather intimidating up the groove. Best done in two pitches but the belay is a bit hard to find. Direct route over a bulge higher up is an excellent finish and perfect snow ice to the cornice.....About VI,5 today but could easily be harder or easier depending on ice build up. Still a three star mega classic!! Wow! (PS Started at 1pm which was a little late but then we didn't leave Aviemore till 9am - :-) )
with Kiwi Steve
Amazing route, one of the best I've done in Scotland - looks impossible but much better ice than it appears and not that steep, just rather intimidating up the groove. Best done in two pitches but the belay is a bit hard to find. Direct route over a bulge higher up is an excellent finish and perfect snow ice to the cornice.....About VI,5 today but could easily be harder or easier depending on ice build up. Still a three star mega classic!! Wow! (PS Started at 1pm which was a little late but then we didn't leave Aviemore till 9am - :-) )
with Kiwi Steve
gforce 14 Mar, 2010 AltLd Started on Tough-Brown Traverse but got distracted by a nice looking ice pitch. Gear hard to find - made all the more difficult by having left the ice screws in the car.
Started on Tough-Brown Traverse but got distracted by a nice looking ice pitch. Gear hard to find - made all the more difficult by having left the ice screws in the car.
Dirk Wallis 14 Mar, 2010 2nd Graham led 1st pitch of Parallel Gully A, I led 1 pitch of Tough-Brown traverse then Graham led through the rest of Parallel Gully B, as he didn't pack any screws.
with gforce
Graham led 1st pitch of Parallel Gully A, I led 1 pitch of Tough-Brown traverse then Graham led through the rest of Parallel Gully B, as he didn't pack any screws.
with gforce
phil64 ?Jan, 1996 AltLd Great route finished in the dark. Upper pitch onto plateau tough
with John fletcher
Great route finished in the dark. Upper pitch onto plateau tough
with John fletcher
Hidden 12 Jan, 1995 AltLd
Hidden 18 Mar, 1994 AltLd O/S
mark-abz 12 Mar, 1994 AltLd
with Walter P
with Walter P
Hidden ??, 1986 AltLd
Lone Rider 2 Feb, 1985 Solo Excellent scenery, the final steep bit was interesting
Excellent scenery, the final steep bit was interesting
Hidden ??, 1985 AltLd
charlesmfrench 10 Mar, 1984 AltLd O/S 2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L.
with Dave Booth
2,L,2,L,2,L,2,L.
with Dave Booth
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 19
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set