Route has suffered a major rockfall. Grade of an ascent in current conditions unknown.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Scottish Winter IV-VII, Cold Climbs (slimmed down).

Hidden 10/Mar/16 AltLd
Robertgiddy 06/Mar/16 Lead

What a pitch! Perhaps the best ice pitch I've done! Good conditions everywhere apart from the crux at the top of P2 which didn't have great ice and was buried under crud which required strenuous clearing - so a scary finish! The gully above was good too (better than Polyphemus in my opinion). Good rock belays but buried and usually 5m beyond the end of the rope, no rock runners today. Big cornice outflanked by the ridge on the left. With Emma on the GUMC Ballater meet.

ESmith 06/Mar/16 2nd
AmyG 15/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Robin Clothier 15/Feb/15 AltLd
with AmyG
nickb1 14/Feb/15 -

First ever winter route... Was okay.

Hidden 14/Feb/15 AltLd
SWalls 14/Feb/15 AltLd
Roberttaylor 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S


with nickb1
BallsOfSteel 14/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Awesome.....just Awesome. Led P1. P2 is phenomenal!

michael83 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

great 2 pitches of ice, easy route to follow from there! the ice is probably worth grade VI but was already pretty hooked out when we climbed it. I don't think i swung my tools more than a handful of times on pitch 2.

with Mark020
Hidden 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
sgl 12/Feb/15 AltLd
with tebs
peter.herd 11/Feb/15 AltLd

outrageously good ****. did polyphemus same day.

with Steven A
Steven Andrews 11/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Outrageous. Climbing around grade V but the line is almost impossible to believe, amongst the vast slabs of the rockfall scar. Has to be one of the most amazing routes in Scotland.

with Pete
Captain Solo 08/Feb/15 AltLd

With direct start VI,5? Felt quite sustained but all the ice was there. Top pitch no pushover either.

with Heike
plain kitten ??/2015 -
simon_D 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

A magic day out...a long tongue of Ice extends down the clean slab, great weather, great climbing, lochnagar is a special place indeed! The top bulge of the 2nd pitch is easily one of the finest ice pitches in Scotland..

with Ross, Dunners
Hidden 19/Feb/12 2nd O/S
James Dunn 19/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Totally awesome day! Best ice route I've done...anywhere! 2nd pitch is mega and, as below, no where near as steep as it appears from below. Belay at the obvious platform about 30m up the corner. A full 60m pitch then takes you to the next belay in the gully (rhs, tat equipped).

Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden ??/2012 -
Andrew Sloan 11/Mar/11 AltLd dnf

First 70m very tough and unrelenting....looks nothing like pictures in 'Cold climbs', there is no chimney any more.All the belays were poor. Tried to finish up groove to right of rock buttress; conditions awful, soft snow on rock slabs. Eventually, about 50m from top, decided to ab off route....scarey.Very serious route, would be significantly easier if neve up high.

with Steve Grove
Smelly Fox 11/Mar/11 AltLd dnf

Turned back on the dirct start after Stu took a fall on the second pitch. Gutted.

s kennedy 11/Mar/11 Lead dnf

Tris's crux monkey burnt out at the final bulge, lowered off

with tris fox
Chad123 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing route, one of the best I've done in Scotland - looks impossible but much better ice than it appears and not that steep, just rather intimidating up the groove. Best done in two pitches but the belay is a bit hard to find. Direct route over a bulge higher up is an excellent finish and perfect snow ice to the cornice.....About VI,5 today but could easily be harder or easier depending on ice build up. Still a three star mega classic!! Wow! (PS Started at 1pm which was a little late but then we didn't leave Aviemore till 9am - :-) )

with Kiwi Steve
gforce 14/Mar/10 AltLd

Started on Tough-Brown Traverse but got distracted by a nice looking ice pitch. Gear hard to find - made all the more difficult by having left the ice screws in the car.

Dirk Wallis 14/Mar/10 2nd

Graham led 1st pitch of Parallel Gully A, I led 1 pitch of Tough-Brown traverse then Graham led through the rest of Parallel Gully B, as he didn't pack any screws.

with gforce
Hidden 12/Jan/95 AltLd
pingora 18/Mar/94 AltLd O/S
with Shaun R
mark-abz 12/Mar/94 AltLd
with Walter P
Hidden ??/1986 AltLd
Lone Rider 02/Feb/85 Solo

Excellent scenery, the final steep bit was interesting

Hidden ??/1985 AltLd
charlesmfrench 10/Mar/84 AltLd O/S


with Dave Booth
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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 18
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set