A brilliant & one of a kind climb for sub E4 climbers on Saddle Tor!
Enter the chimney via a tip-toe reach to a mini jug on the left face. Wriggle up the holdless chimney to crack 12" up allowing for a good no hands rest, take a breather & continue to wriggle, the wedged boulder at the top provides a good hand hold but in an arkward position.

While gear is present it is sparse & wont help the wriggling. The wedged boulder would allow for a good thread placement. Probably best treated as solo.

Javu.co.uk Grades this at 4c, While Nick White Grades at an underestimated 4a. 4b compromise and definitely deserves a star!

Ticklists

40 For 40

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 6 Jun -
Lizard Ollie 22 May Solo O/S Good value at the grade although it would be impossible to protect. Arm bars and a bit of thrutching gets you up. Probably better to warm up on the E1!
Good value at the grade although it would be impossible to protect. Arm bars and a bit of thrutching gets you up. Probably better to warm up on the E1!
Hidden 27 Mar Sent x
chris wyatt 9 Aug, 2018 Solo G/U took a while to work out how to move off the ground. chicken wings.
took a while to work out how to move off the ground. chicken wings.
Chris Ebbutt 3 Jun, 2018 Lead 41 of 40. ( We lost count) In the dark by headtorch, only had enough in me for one attempt at the boulder problem start, then udged and wedged my way to 40 for 40 success. 41 Climbs, 10 Tors, 10KM round trip. 17 hrs, 18 mins.
41 of 40. ( We lost count) In the dark by headtorch, only had enough in me for one attempt at the boulder problem start, then udged and wedged my way to 40 for 40 success. 41 Climbs, 10 Tors, 10KM round trip. 17 hrs, 18 mins.
Hidden 3 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 29 May, 2018 -
Ben Seeley 21 Feb, 2018 Solo
Jim blackford 10 Sep, 2017 Solo O/S
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 -
luke2107 4 Jun, 2017 Solo O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2017 -
Hidden 18 Apr, 2017 Solo rpt
timreynolds 7 Jul, 2016 Solo
Roget 7 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S
dparsons 9 Jun, 2016 Solo O/S
KDSclimber 29 May, 2016 Solo
Hidden 12 Apr, 2016 Solo
Hidden 12 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S
keepguessing 20 Jul, 2015 Solo β Apparently there is a nice hold somewhere in the chimney, i never found it. :/
with sam
Apparently there is a nice hold somewhere in the chimney, i never found it. :/
with sam
Robin Nichols 17 Jul, 2015 Solo O/S
with Jemma
with Jemma
Hidden 2 May, 2015 Sent O/S
supersouthward 19 Jan, 2015 Solo In the dark, and the cold, and in my boots, without a rope, felt like a hero
with kiaran ratcliffe, Lewis Stewart
In the dark, and the cold, and in my boots, without a rope, felt like a hero
with kiaran ratcliffe, Lewis Stewart
Hidden 19 Jan, 2015 Solo O/S
granticus ??, 2015 -
gordy767 29 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
Dan 85 29 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 29 Jul, 2014 Sent
snook 12 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S
Hidden 17 Feb, 2014 Sent O/S
ferdia 2 Jan, 2014 Solo O/S
with malx, Will Grayson, Rozzy Pedder, burto, CalumC, Andy Moles
with malx, Will Grayson, Rozzy Pedder, burto, CalumC, Andy Moles
Tom D ??, 2014 Solo
Russell Blackaller 16 Jul, 2013 Solo O/S Right of passage apparently? All I gained was a couple of scabby knees.
Right of passage apparently? All I gained was a couple of scabby knees.
Mike_Hayes 2 Jun, 2013 Sent
kingholmesy ??, 2013 Solo O/S
John Tanner 18 Nov, 2012 Sent O/S
gidmord 18 Nov, 2012 Solo O/S
with John Tanner, dmoir
with John Tanner, dmoir
Hidden 17 Nov, 2012 Solo O/S
Samuel Wainwright 30 Mar, 2012 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 Solo O/S
Luke Dawson 5 Nov, 2011 Solo O/S
Dale Turrell 16 Aug, 2011 Sent O/S
BelayBunney 23 Jun, 2011 Sent O/S
twm 8 May, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden 8 Apr, 2011 Sent O/S
dmoir 8 Apr, 2011 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mxfiggins 15 Jun, 2010 Sent O/S
Hidden 4 Jan, 2010 Sent O/S
Luke d 4 Jan, 2010 Solo O/S cold
cold
Jack_F ??, 2010 Sent rpt
pezzerrr ?Oct, 2009 Solo O/S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2009 Solo O/S
henbot 18 Aug, 2009 Solo O/S le fissure d'amor!
with Hendo Henderson + Macca
le fissure d'amor!
with Hendo Henderson + Macca
JonHarvey 14 Jun, 2009 Solo O/S
langar27 14 Jun, 2009 Sent O/S
Hidden 3 Apr, 2009 Solo O/S
suunto12 2 Apr, 2009 Solo
Hidden ?Apr, 2009 Solo
sharmawho? 11 Jun, 2008 Sent
with Dave, Oli, Charlotte
with Dave, Oli, Charlotte
hippo99 17 Feb, 2008 Sent O/S
with rob rudolf joe doyle
with rob rudolf joe doyle
buddha1369 27 Aug, 2007 Solo start is harder then 4b if you cant reach the big hold
start is harder then 4b if you cant reach the big hold
petegunn 1 Apr, 2007 Sent
Hidden 1 Apr, 2007 Sent
francois 31 Mar, 2007 Solo Ridiculous starting move if you're flexibly challenged like myself!!!
Ridiculous starting move if you're flexibly challenged like myself!!!
Dave Searle 23 Mar, 2007 Solo O/S
Tom Last 27 Jan, 2007 Solo O/S Good start, tricky to figure out. Easy afterwards.
Good start, tricky to figure out. Easy afterwards.
rotsoscooper 1 Sep, 2006 Solo O/S
Jon_Warner 24 Aug, 2006 Solo O/S Difficult start up to foot ledge, rest then up - scary on solo!
with Chris Mainstone
Difficult start up to foot ledge, rest then up - scary on solo!
with Chris Mainstone
mikey.cleverdon ??, 2006 -
JeromeT ??, 2006 Sent x
petegunn 21 Aug, 2003 Sent
with Charlotte
with Charlotte
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 Solo O/S
Hidden ??, 2000 -
petegunn 21 Nov, 1999 Solo
with Matt Wilkes
with Matt Wilkes
Small and weak ?Jul, 1995 Solo
climbingrichard 6 Jun, 1993 Solo O/S cold windy dry
cold windy dry
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 12
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Soloed
Bouldered
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set