Rockfax Description
A good route that is hard for the grade. Start just right of the low crack where Rimsky-Korsakov starts, and move up and right to the diagonal crack. Move through this to a spike and then head back up and left towards a line of weakness that cuts across the whole crag. Move rightwards towards the arete and a welcome cam slot before heading up the wall to a heart-in-mouth moment as you step onto the white slab. The cracked tower above feels easy in comparison before a final scramble to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pokey and contrived.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist.

pete johnson 20/May 2nd rpt
with Cefin Edwards, Marcus Payne
Misha 19/May Lead O/S

Steady - not hard for the grade by a long way! Feels a bit pokey in the middle but there’s enough decent gear (double set of small to medium cams recommended). The hardest and boldest bit was the finishing ‘tower’. Didn’t find the spike. Some of the comments here mention a spike on the right but the logical thing is to follow the diagonal crack (tricky) until an easy stretch leads to the half height jugs.

with eszter
steveb2006 15/May Lead

A good route on a good clean crag - my first E3 for some time. Stuck wire on crux. Didnt find 1.5 size cam placement mentioned in the guide but did get a good quadcam 0 in a small slot up left. Tricky moves (especially near top) but a good rest in middle.

with Mick F
Dan Arkle 09/May Lead O/S
James Beaumont 26/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Alriiiiiiiiiiight!, first E3 onsight in the pass, it seems less scary now. Didn't think the gear was very inspiring, heart in my mouth going through the top crux but kept moving. Decent route though.

with Crimps, Chris Bennett, Dan
Tom Livingstone 21/Jun/17 2nd rpt

Into top of Rimsky.

with Ben Silvestre
Alex Mason 14/Jun/17 2nd rpt
JamesWilliams 14/Jun/17 Lead O/S

felt pretty good on this made a nest on the ledge and felt fairly steady most of the way apart from a little wobble near the top but rained it in and smashed it. first pass E3 i think

andyinglis 03/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller
Timothy Miller 03/Jun/17 2nd O/S
Daz Devey 27/May/17 2nd O/S

Good lead by Phil, some tricky moves above poor protection!

Phil Davidson 27/May/17 Lead O/S

Personally thought the gear was well dodgy

pie_eater_pete 25/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
Frank the Husky ??/2017 -
UKB and BMC Shark 05/Oct/16 Lead dnf
with Nick Conway
Nickc 05/Oct/16 Lead β

didn't find cam slot..

with Simon lee
Adam Booth 17/Aug/16 Lead O/S
anguskille 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Rich Gentry
Ed Booth 16/Aug/16 2nd rpt
James Oswald 14/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Good route with nice climbing but the middle section is a bit pokey. Hard e3

Duncan Campbell 14/Aug/16 2nd
WB 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S
markalmack 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with WB
mynyddresident 18/Jul/16 Lead
with Tony P
jezb1 22/Jun/16 Lead G/U

Really liked this route. Lots of gear, not all perfect. The cam slot is pretty hidden until you're by it.

D.Russell 29/May/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/16 Lead O/S
piersg ??/2016 2nd
Hidden ??/2016 -
Dave Rumney 04/Oct/15 2nd
jacob shieldhouse hadley 12/Aug/15 Lead O/S

good climbing, the crux is easy, if you figure it out

with jasper cluff
Hidden 15/Jul/15 AltLd dog
Hidden ?/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 18/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/15 2nd β
Cailean Harker 15/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Mike Goldthorp
tim newton 05/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Tricky warm-up...

Ed morris 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Jerry Handren
Rich Kirby 24/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Russell Blackaller 23/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Felt quite hard for E3.

Justin T 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 02/Jul/14 Lead O/S

mynyddresident 02/Jul/14 2nd rpt
with wolf
Tom Livingstone 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Soft and rambly

with Jack Lawledge
HAJ Francis 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 17/May/14 2nd
with Nick B
Lenny 16/Apr/14 2nd
with Steve
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 23/Jul/13 2nd

Thought the top would be the hardest bit to lead, short but intense.

Hidden 22/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 21/Jul/13 2nd
dan gibson 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with sam read
dswansonlow 15/Jul/13 Lead O/S
shed_hed 15/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Found the climbing quite sequency (managed to keep getting the wrong sequence all the way up!) and technical but not too tricky, though the end was pretty steep! Gear didn't look that convincing on it but a cool route none the less.

redjerry 12/Jul/13 TR O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/13 Lead β
atapper21 09/Jul/13 2nd
with AJCW
Andrew Barker 05/Jul/13 2nd rpt
Speeddemonsi 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
tim newton 18/Jun/13 2nd rpt

I lead this the day before, going right from low in the initial crack to an obvious spike and up and left from there. That was pretty hard to read...maybe e3/4 5c/6a and not the line (I presume). Saw the pictures of people on the routes in the 2 guides and realised they'd gone up the crack for a few moves and then up to the ledge. Seconded it that way today and it's 5b that way. The cc llanberis description is just a bit confusing considering it mentions a spike and there's a really obvious spike further out right. Not pokey or contrived as it says on the description here. A 1 or 2 star route well worth doing and a good warm up for the harder routes.

with breed
tim newton 17/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with rich gentry
nathanlee 25/May/13 2nd
dominic lee 25/May/13 Lead O/S
LRob ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/12 Lead
Jen Crook 28/Aug/12 2nd
with John Houlden, robpatchett
wi11 12/Aug/12 2nd β
Hidden 28/May/12 2nd O/S
Ewan Russell 28/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
matt perks ??/2012 -
sam820 28/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Callum
Scraggadoo 25/Sep/11 AltLd
Owain Llewelyn 04/Aug/11 2nd
centurion05 04/Aug/11 Lead
al123 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

really good climb. 5bish first crux then a rest then 5c crux. pretty well protected. i got pretty pumped at the top, first welsh E3.

with nic
mynyddresident 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Initially put off by the mixed feedback. However, once you suss the right line (don't climb to the end of the initial crack) and find the two bomber wires it's fine. Good moves across to the arete and up.

with Al
Luke Brooks 06/Jun/11 2nd
Liam FLeming 06/Jun/11 -
with luke brooks
Dunx 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
al99 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ben Jones
martinazando 30/Apr/11 2nd dog
with lukehodson
frost 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with D Almond
lukehodson 30/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Superb route

with Dunx
Dave Almond 30/Apr/11 2nd
with frost
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 Lead
hamish2016 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 04/Sep/10 Lead β
with hamdunn
Hidden 27/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead O/S
centurion05 22/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Whats all the fuss about? there's two big rests on the route after the two hard sections. The first hard bit is ok, bout 5b/5c with a reach, the 'crux' felt really straight forward and well protected, i didn't even find the 1.5 cam slot as mentioned but there's a bomber number 4 just where you want it. E2 5c

with lee wales
La Mont 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with feilx
feilx 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with La Mont
Hidden 27/Jun/10 Lead O/S
catblack 26/Jun/10 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Nails if you follow the exact guidebook line to the spike and back left at the start - felt like E3 6a. The rest wasn't as scary as I was expecting. Shouldn't this be in the Hidden Wall Section?

ewen 22/Jun/10 2nd
with neil stabbs
JulesV 20/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 03/Jun/10 Lead O/S
ksjs 24/May/10 2nd rpt
with pete
Rich Kirby 23/May/10 2nd O/S
with Ewan
Mike Goldthorp 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Great route, crux section is a bit insecure and airy but gear seemed bomb for the 'slopey guppy' section

with George Ulrich
ksjs 17/May/10 2nd rpt

am really in 2 minds about this route: i rarely onsight E3 as a warm up yet did so on this 2 years ago. then today i just couldnt commit on lead to last moves and had thoughts of a groundfall if my good nut should rip. i see Alex's comments too and, from his log, he knows what hes up to. all quite weird. the combination of nut, friend and small friend in slot on left all however probably do make this E3 (E2 even?) and no more: 1 delicate move by gear after a stand up rest.

with jo
ksjs 17/May/10 Lead dnf

strange one this! started RK and got rail but decided i needed / wanted small cams. tried to finish on EGD but was quite casual and skipped / forgot about the cam placement. then had a bit of a moment mid-crux and decided to reverse and lower. didnt really 'set' myself properly for either RK or EGD - poor but insightful

with jo
simonp ?/May/10 Lead O/S
with Lucy Ham
zero six ?/May/10 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?/May/10 Lead O/S

Pleasant enough.

Luke Brooks 11/Apr/10 2nd
hervenuttall ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
with Ben
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
soph 01/Jan/10 -
Alex Mason 14/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Took over from ben, terrifying. Sketchy gear after initial crack traverse, which gets no better once you move up to the slopey guppie move onto the top, thought i was gunna deck from near the top on slopey stretchy moves. (just read other comments wtf?)

with Ben alsford
Hidden ?/Oct/09 -
barni 25/Sep/09 Lead dog
Liam FLeming 25/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with barni
gregoritos 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with james
Stig 08/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Greg
Toby Dunn 23/Jun/09 Lead
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 12/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Arding
miastacey 31/May/09 2nd
with Bob Smith
mattyork2 31/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve, Dan Mc and Tristan
Hidden 30/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/09 Lead rpt
geoff b 24/Apr/09 Lead
pete johnson 24/Apr/09 -
with geoff b
Boy ?/Apr/09 -
with Nige Kershaw
Pete Graham ?/Apr/09 2nd
with Luke Porter
Hidden 23/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Dan 85 28/Jul/08 Lead O/S

First E3, probably only E2 aswell. But I got up!

with Francis
ksjs 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S

a quality pitch. a friend 2 (wild country) will suffice for the friend placement (referred to in north wales rock) and theres a good nut above this anyway (it can be placed from same position)

with mark
Ed Booth 04/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with will sim
pete johnson 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Lun
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 25/Jun/05 2nd β
with Ed Brown
Steve Crowe 15/Jul/02 2nd O/S
with karin
caveman_chris ?/May/99 Lead
sadams 05/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Andy Bowie
duncan 07/Aug/97 Lead O/S
with Hugo Glover
Ched ??/1997 2nd
with IwanJones
wynaptomos ?/May/89 Lead O/S
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