40m.

Rockfax Description
A good route that is hard for the grade. Start just right of the low crack where Rimsky-Korsakov starts, and move up and right to the diagonal crack. Move through this to a spike and then head back up and left towards a line of weakness that cuts across the whole crag. Move rightwards towards the arete and a welcome cam slot before heading up the wall to a heart-in-mouth moment as you step onto the white slab. The cracked tower above feels easy in comparison before a final scramble to the belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Interesting climbing with two tricky sections, firstly up the diagonal crack and secondly to gain the white slab high on the right. In between there's a good rest and a traverse to the arete.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tobias Barthelmes 20 Sep 2nd dog
Owen Davies 20 Sep Lead O/S Fantastic technical climbing with gear arriving as soon as it starts feeling spicy!
with Toby Barthelmes
Fantastic technical climbing with gear arriving as soon as it starts feeling spicy!
with Toby Barthelmes
Ramon Marin 19 Sep 2nd O/S Burly and bold facker
with Tom le fanu
Burly and bold facker
with Tom le fanu
Hannes B 27 Aug Lead O/S
Matt Harle 26 Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Aug -
Mike_Hayes 25 Aug Lead O/S On Mikes Gear
with Mike Lea
On Mikes Gear
with Mike Lea
Andy Moles 8 Aug Lead
with ferdia
with ferdia
ferdia 8 Aug 2nd
George_Surf 5 Jul Lead O/S Good climbing, a bit bold on the crux. Went semi direct on the upper tower, moving left out of the wide crack to the thinner crack. Superdirect would be hard and scary.
Good climbing, a bit bold on the crux. Went semi direct on the upper tower, moving left out of the wide crack to the thinner crack. Superdirect would be hard and scary.
Hidden 4 Jul 2nd rpt
Adam Lincoln 2 Jul Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
with Mick Lovatt
rachelpearce01 2 Jul Lead O/S Found this pretty steady and not too bold. Managed to get a couple of micro aliens in some good slots.
Found this pretty steady and not too bold. Managed to get a couple of micro aliens in some good slots.
Hidden 2 Jul Lead O/S
james.slater 30 Jun Lead O/S Went very direct on the tower, which was very hard and easily the crux. Great lower section.
Went very direct on the tower, which was very hard and easily the crux. Great lower section.
BC 30 Jun Lead
Kev Little 30 Jun Lead O/S Interesting climbing and just enough gear
with aiyer
Interesting climbing and just enough gear
with aiyer
Hidden 30 Jun 2nd rpt
Adam Ellwood 22 Jun 2nd
DavidEvans 22 Jun Lead O/S Great route - worth 2/3 stars IMO. First E3 of the year. A mental fight but fairly safe in reality.
Great route - worth 2/3 stars IMO. First E3 of the year. A mental fight but fairly safe in reality.
justdoit 22 Jun Lead O/S First proper e3 onsight on my birthday as well. Very good climbing and not really that bold.
First proper e3 onsight on my birthday as well. Very good climbing and not really that bold.
gazhbo 22 Apr Lead β
with Wendy
with Wendy
Archie ball 19 Apr Lead O/S Super nice climbing. Kind of ended just as it got interesting. Dad followed with a few tactical “rests”.
with Dad
Super nice climbing. Kind of ended just as it got interesting. Dad followed with a few tactical “rests”.
with Dad
Ed Babs 6 Aug, 2018 2nd O/S
with IainAM
with IainAM
Si Witcher 23 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt a couple of small cams useful on the easier middle section, but good wire before the crux anyway
with Aggie T
a couple of small cams useful on the easier middle section, but good wire before the crux anyway
with Aggie T
Kris suriyo 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Great route with good climbing.
Great route with good climbing.
Longsufferingropeholder 15 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S Nice climbing
Nice climbing
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Joshthomas 9 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
Mike W 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
bencole 13 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U I thought this was a really good route and spot on at hard E3. The gears all there but the good stuff is a little hard to place near the crux. I misread the crux, got pumped and fell off onto the good cam on the arête. Went OK second go but it’s steep and the top is very bold. Loads of chalk on all the route yet none on the top tower, makes me think a few recent ascents have finished up the line of the HVS.
I thought this was a really good route and spot on at hard E3. The gears all there but the good stuff is a little hard to place near the crux. I misread the crux, got pumped and fell off onto the good cam on the arête. Went OK second go but it’s steep and the top is very bold. Loads of chalk on all the route yet none on the top tower, makes me think a few recent ascents have finished up the line of the HVS.
ferdia 12 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with Ben Silvestre
with Ben Silvestre
Gabe Oliver 9 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Not hard for the grade in anyway. It’s like hard E2 maximum but a really fun little route! Loads of bomber gear and never really gets hard.
Not hard for the grade in anyway. It’s like hard E2 maximum but a really fun little route! Loads of bomber gear and never really gets hard.
peter.herd 7 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Brad Reed
with Brad Reed
lanky ?Jun, 2018 2nd
with trystam
with trystam
pete johnson 20 May, 2018 2nd rpt
with Cefin Edwards, Marcus Payne
with Cefin Edwards, Marcus Payne
Misha 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S Prophetic as had just submitted my BMG application and was accepted a few weeks later! Steady - not hard for the grade by a long way! Feels a bit pokey in the middle but there’s enough decent gear (double set of small to medium cams recommended). The hardest and boldest bit was the finishing ‘tower’. Didn’t find the spike. Some of the comments here mention a spike on the right but the logical thing is to follow the diagonal crack (tricky) until an easy stretch leads to the half height jugs.
with eszter
Prophetic as had just submitted my BMG application and was accepted a few weeks later! Steady - not hard for the grade by a long way! Feels a bit pokey in the middle but there’s enough decent gear (double set of small to medium cams recommended). The hardest and boldest bit was the finishing ‘tower’. Didn’t find the spike. Some of the comments here mention a spike on the right but the logical thing is to follow the diagonal crack (tricky) until an easy stretch leads to the half height jugs.
with eszter
steveb2006 15 May, 2018 Lead A good route on a good clean crag - my first E3 for some time. Stuck wire on crux. Didnt find 1.5 size cam placement mentioned in the guide but did get a good quadcam 0 in a small slot up left. Tricky moves (especially near top) but a good rest in middle.
with Mick F
A good route on a good clean crag - my first E3 for some time. Stuck wire on crux. Didnt find 1.5 size cam placement mentioned in the guide but did get a good quadcam 0 in a small slot up left. Tricky moves (especially near top) but a good rest in middle.
with Mick F
Dan Arkle 9 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2018 Lead O/S
James Beaumont 26 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S Alriiiiiiiiiiight!, first E3 onsight in the pass, it seems less scary now. Didn't think the gear was very inspiring, heart in my mouth going through the top crux but kept moving. Decent route though.
with Crimps, Chris Bennett, Dan
Alriiiiiiiiiiight!, first E3 onsight in the pass, it seems less scary now. Didn't think the gear was very inspiring, heart in my mouth going through the top crux but kept moving. Decent route though.
with Crimps, Chris Bennett, Dan
Tom Livingstone 21 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt Into top of Rimsky.
with Ben Silvestre
Into top of Rimsky.
with Ben Silvestre
Alex Mason 14 Jun, 2017 2nd rpt
JamesWilliams 14 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S felt pretty good on this made a nest on the ledge and felt fairly steady most of the way apart from a little wobble near the top but rained it in and smashed it. first pass E3 i think
felt pretty good on this made a nest on the ledge and felt fairly steady most of the way apart from a little wobble near the top but rained it in and smashed it. first pass E3 i think
andyinglis 3 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Tim Miller
with Tim Miller
mim tiller 3 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Daz Devey 27 May, 2017 2nd O/S Good lead by Phil, some tricky moves above poor protection!
Good lead by Phil, some tricky moves above poor protection!
Phil Davidson 27 May, 2017 Lead O/S Personally thought the gear was well dodgy
Personally thought the gear was well dodgy
pie_eater_pete 25 May, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Frank the Husky ??, 2017 -
UKB Shark 5 Oct, 2016 Lead dnf
with Nickc
with Nickc
Nickc 5 Oct, 2016 Lead β didn't find cam slot..
with Simon lee
didn't find cam slot..
with Simon lee
Adam Booth 17 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 16 Aug, 2016 2nd rpt
James Oswald 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S Good route with nice climbing but the middle section is a bit pokey. Hard e3
Good route with nice climbing but the middle section is a bit pokey. Hard e3
Duncan Campbell 14 Aug, 2016 2nd
WB 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
markalmack 6 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
mynyddresident 18 Jul, 2016 Lead
with Tony P
with Tony P
jezb1 22 Jun, 2016 Lead G/U Really liked this route. Lots of gear, not all perfect. The cam slot is pretty hidden until you're by it.
Really liked this route. Lots of gear, not all perfect. The cam slot is pretty hidden until you're by it.
D.Russell 29 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 May, 2016 Lead O/S
piersg ??, 2016 2nd
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Dave Rumney 4 Oct, 2015 2nd
jacob shieldhouse hadley 12 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S good climbing, the crux is easy, if you figure it out
with jasper cluff
good climbing, the crux is easy, if you figure it out
with jasper cluff
Hidden 15 Jul, 2015 AltLd dog
Hidden ?Jul, 2015 Lead
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd β
Cailean Harker 15 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Mike Goldthorp
with Mike Goldthorp
tim newton 5 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
Rachel Slater 5 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S Tricky warm-up...
Tricky warm-up...
Ed morris 28 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jerry Handren
with Jerry Handren
Hidden 24 Jul, 2014 Lead rpt
Russell Blackaller 23 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Felt quite hard for E3.
Felt quite hard for E3.
Justin T 23 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
wolf.leeb 2 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 2 Jul, 2014 2nd rpt
with wolf
with wolf
Tom Livingstone 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Soft and rambly
with Jack Lawledge
Soft and rambly
with Jack Lawledge
HAJ Francis 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 17 May, 2014 2nd
with Nick B
with Nick B
Lenny 16 Apr, 2014 2nd
with Steve
with Steve
oliverpcain ??, 2014 Lead O/S
mike lawrence? 23 Jul, 2013 2nd Thought the top would be the hardest bit to lead, short but intense.
Thought the top would be the hardest bit to lead, short but intense.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 21 Jul, 2013 2nd
dan gibson 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with sam read
with sam read
dswansonlow 15 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
shed_hed 15 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Found the climbing quite sequency (managed to keep getting the wrong sequence all the way up!) and technical but not too tricky, though the end was pretty steep! Gear didn't look that convincing on it but a cool route none the less.
Found the climbing quite sequency (managed to keep getting the wrong sequence all the way up!) and technical but not too tricky, though the end was pretty steep! Gear didn't look that convincing on it but a cool route none the less.
redjerry 12 Jul, 2013 TR O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2013 Lead β
atapper21 9 Jul, 2013 2nd
with AJCW
with AJCW
Andrew Barker 5 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
Speeddemonsi 5 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
tim newton 18 Jun, 2013 2nd rpt I lead this the day before, going right from low in the initial crack to an obvious spike and up and left from there. That was pretty hard to read...maybe e3/4 5c/6a and not the line (I presume). Saw the pictures of people on the routes in the 2 guides and realised they'd gone up the crack for a few moves and then up to the ledge. Seconded it that way today and it's 5b that way. The cc llanberis description is just a bit confusing considering it mentions a spike and there's a really obvious spike further out right. Not pokey or contrived as it says on the description here. A 1 or 2 star route well worth doing and a good warm up for the harder routes.
with breed
I lead this the day before, going right from low in the initial crack to an obvious spike and up and left from there. That was pretty hard to read...maybe e3/4 5c/6a and not the line (I presume). Saw the pictures of people on the routes in the 2 guides and realised they'd gone up the crack for a few moves and then up to the ledge. Seconded it that way today and it's 5b that way. The cc llanberis description is just a bit confusing considering it mentions a spike and there's a really obvious spike further out right. Not pokey or contrived as it says on the description here. A 1 or 2 star route well worth doing and a good warm up for the harder routes.
with breed
tim newton 17 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with rich gentry
with rich gentry
nathanlee 25 May, 2013 2nd
dominic lee 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S
LRob ??, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Aug, 2012 Lead
Jen Crook 28 Aug, 2012 2nd
with John Houlden, robpatchett
with John Houlden, robpatchett
wi11 12 Aug, 2012 2nd β
Hidden 28 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Ewan Russell 28 May, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2012 Lead O/S
matt perks ??, 2012 -
sam820 28 Sep, 2011 Lead O/S
with Callum
with Callum
Scraggadoo 25 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Owain Llewelyn 4 Aug, 2011 2nd
centurion05 4 Aug, 2011 Lead
al123 27 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S really good climb. 5bish first crux then a rest then 5c crux. pretty well protected. i got pretty pumped at the top, first welsh E3.
with nic
really good climb. 5bish first crux then a rest then 5c crux. pretty well protected. i got pretty pumped at the top, first welsh E3.
with nic
mynyddresident 27 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S Initially put off by the mixed feedback. However, once you suss the right line (don't climb to the end of the initial crack) and find the two bomber wires it's fine. Good moves across to the arete and up.
with Al
Initially put off by the mixed feedback. However, once you suss the right line (don't climb to the end of the initial crack) and find the two bomber wires it's fine. Good moves across to the arete and up.
with Al
Luke Brooks 6 Jun, 2011 2nd
Liam FLeming 6 Jun, 2011 -
with luke brooks
with luke brooks
Dunx 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
al99 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with Ben Jones
with Ben Jones
martinazando 30 Apr, 2011 2nd dog
with lukehodson
with lukehodson
frost 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
with D Almond
with D Almond
lukehodson 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Superb route
with Dunx
Superb route
with Dunx
Dave Almond 30 Apr, 2011 2nd
with frost
with frost
Hidden 21 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Luke Brooks ??, 2011 Lead
hamish2016 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
with Wil Treasure
with Wil Treasure
Wil Treasure 4 Sep, 2010 Lead β
with hamdunn
with hamdunn
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 2nd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
centurion05 22 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Whats all the fuss about? there's two big rests on the route after the two hard sections. The first hard bit is ok, bout 5b/5c with a reach, the 'crux' felt really straight forward and well protected, i didn't even find the 1.5 cam slot as mentioned but there's a bomber number 4 just where you want it. E2 5c
with lee wales
Whats all the fuss about? there's two big rests on the route after the two hard sections. The first hard bit is ok, bout 5b/5c with a reach, the 'crux' felt really straight forward and well protected, i didn't even find the 1.5 cam slot as mentioned but there's a bomber number 4 just where you want it. E2 5c
with lee wales
La Mont 15 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
with feilx
with feilx
feilx 15 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with La Mont
with La Mont
MikePycroft 27 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Chris P
with Chris P
catblack 26 Jun, 2010 2nd dog
Andrew Barker 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Nails if you follow the exact guidebook line to the spike and back left at the start - felt like E3 6a. The rest wasn't as scary as I was expecting. Shouldn't this be in the Hidden Wall Section?
Nails if you follow the exact guidebook line to the spike and back left at the start - felt like E3 6a. The rest wasn't as scary as I was expecting. Shouldn't this be in the Hidden Wall Section?
ewen 22 Jun, 2010 2nd
with neil stabbs
with neil stabbs
JulesV 20 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
with Shauna Cunningham
ksjs 24 May, 2010 2nd rpt
with pete
with pete
Hidden 23 May, 2010 2nd O/S
Mike Goldthorp 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S Great route, crux section is a bit insecure and airy but gear seemed bomb for the 'slopey guppy' section
with George Ulrich
Great route, crux section is a bit insecure and airy but gear seemed bomb for the 'slopey guppy' section
with George Ulrich
ksjs 17 May, 2010 2nd rpt am really in 2 minds about this route: i rarely onsight E3 as a warm up yet did so on this 2 years ago. then today i just couldnt commit on lead to last moves and had thoughts of a groundfall if my good nut should rip. i see Alex's comments too and, from his log, he knows what hes up to. all quite weird. the combination of nut, friend and small friend in slot on left all however probably do make this E3 (E2 even?) and no more: 1 delicate move by gear after a stand up rest.
with jo
am really in 2 minds about this route: i rarely onsight E3 as a warm up yet did so on this 2 years ago. then today i just couldnt commit on lead to last moves and had thoughts of a groundfall if my good nut should rip. i see Alex's comments too and, from his log, he knows what hes up to. all quite weird. the combination of nut, friend and small friend in slot on left all however probably do make this E3 (E2 even?) and no more: 1 delicate move by gear after a stand up rest.
with jo
ksjs 17 May, 2010 Lead dnf strange one this! started RK and got rail but decided i needed / wanted small cams. tried to finish on EGD but was quite casual and skipped / forgot about the cam placement. then had a bit of a moment mid-crux and decided to reverse and lower. didnt really 'set' myself properly for either RK or EGD - poor but insightful
with jo
strange one this! started RK and got rail but decided i needed / wanted small cams. tried to finish on EGD but was quite casual and skipped / forgot about the cam placement. then had a bit of a moment mid-crux and decided to reverse and lower. didnt really 'set' myself properly for either RK or EGD - poor but insightful
with jo
simonp ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Lucy Ham
with Lucy Ham
zero six ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
halfmanhalfbiscuit ?May, 2010 Lead O/S Pleasant enough.
Pleasant enough.
Luke Brooks 11 Apr, 2010 2nd
hervenuttall ?Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with Ben
with Ben
Hidden 1 Jan, 2010 -
soph 1 Jan, 2010 -
Alex Mason 14 Oct, 2009 Lead O/S Took over from ben, terrifying. Sketchy gear after initial crack traverse, which gets no better once you move up to the slopey guppie move onto the top, thought i was gunna deck from near the top on slopey stretchy moves. (just read other comments wtf?)
with Ben alsford
Took over from ben, terrifying. Sketchy gear after initial crack traverse, which gets no better once you move up to the slopey guppie move onto the top, thought i was gunna deck from near the top on slopey stretchy moves. (just read other comments wtf?)
with Ben alsford
Hidden ?Oct, 2009 -
barni 25 Sep, 2009 Lead dog
Liam FLeming 25 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
with barni
with barni
gregoritos 8 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with james
with james
Stig 8 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
with Greg
with Greg
Toby Dunn 23 Jun, 2009 Lead
with Andy Reeve
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 12 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
Rob Pitt 2 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Nick Arding
with Nick Arding
miastacey 31 May, 2009 2nd
with Bob Smith
with Bob Smith
mattyork2 31 May, 2009 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve, Dan Mc and Tristan
with Andy Reeve, Dan Mc and Tristan
Hidden 30 May, 2009 Lead O/S
MikePycroft ?May, 2009 Lead rpt scarey lead repeat from 1997
scarey lead repeat from 1997
geoff b 24 Apr, 2009 Lead
pete johnson 24 Apr, 2009 -
with geoff b
with geoff b
Boy ?Apr, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Pete Graham ?Apr, 2009 2nd
with Luke Porter
with Luke Porter
Hidden 23 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Dan 85 28 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S First E3, probably only E2 aswell. But I got up!
with Francis
First E3, probably only E2 aswell. But I got up!
with Francis
ksjs 27 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S a quality pitch. a friend 2 (wild country) will suffice for the friend placement (referred to in north wales rock) and theres a good nut above this anyway (it can be placed from same position)
with mark
a quality pitch. a friend 2 (wild country) will suffice for the friend placement (referred to in north wales rock) and theres a good nut above this anyway (it can be placed from same position)
with mark
Si Witcher 7 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
with Phil
with Phil
Ed Booth 4 Aug, 2006 Lead O/S
with will sim
with will sim
pete johnson 23 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with Lun
with Lun
Hidden 2 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 2nd O/S
Tom Briggs 25 Jun, 2005 2nd β
with Ed Brown
with Ed Brown
Steve Crowe 15 Jul, 2002 2nd O/S
with karin
with karin
caveman_chris ?May, 1999 Lead
sadams 5 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
with Andy Bowie
with Andy Bowie
duncan 7 Aug, 1997 Lead O/S
Ched ??, 1997 2nd
with IwanJones
with IwanJones
Neil McA 14 Jun, 1996 2nd rpt
with Paul Jenkinson, Andy Cave
with Paul Jenkinson, Andy Cave
Neil McA 2 Jul, 1994 2nd O/S
with Beak 2
with Beak 2
wynaptomos ?May, 1989 Lead O/S
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 42
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set